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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure this has been solved by others, but I can't find anything while doing a search. I'm trying to build up a 2006 Madone as a SS (I got the frame from Craigslist - looks like it was a project from someone working at the factory as it truly is a SS frame w/ no der. hanger or cable mounts). Anyway, I have a set of wheels that I got with the frame/fork - ENO rear hub (16t cog and freewheel flip/flop), laced to a Campagnolo Omega rim (no machined surface, but apparently par for those rims).

I've gone with a 42t ring up front (an MTB crankset). The rear cogs are 1/8, so I had to go with a 1/8 chain. I had everything installed and ready to go, and tried to install the rear brake. The shoes cannot go down far enough - i.e. they won't reach the braking surface of the rims, but rather rub the tire. I tried to flip the ENO hub upwards instead, to hopefully bring the rim closer, but the tire then rubs the frame (the middle against the brake arch of the frame, not the sides) so that isn't an option.

Is this an issue with ENO hubs, or is it a combination with the Madone frame - something I don't know about with the Madone frame in particular? I don't think a 20c rear tire will make up the difference (I'm running a 23c).

Anyone have any ideas? Do I need to go to a 1/2 link? I thought I could avoid that with the ENO hub, but I have NO experience with ENO's, and this is my first road SS. Any input is welcome. Thanks!
 

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On mine it is possible to rotate the eno such that the brakes work right and the chain is right, too. I don't have any experience with treks though.
 

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Why are you using a ENO hub if the Madone is a custom SS frame?

Unless it's just a frame without a Derailleur hanger that's another story.

Anyways, this would be much easier with pictures if possible. I would try "limiting" using the eccentric rotation, by getting the chain length as close to the magic gear as possible.

It can also be your brake calipers, some aren't made to reach as far as others. Make sure you got them locked down too, many usually just set them with the locks up to dial it in as wear and tear goes on the pads.

Pictures I say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies and request for further info. I'll try to get a pic up ASAP. By custom, it merely doesn't have a der. hanger (still vertical dropouts) - I think the der. hanger was ground off, but there were no cable mounts installed (original paint, and def. no mounts on the frame). So, I need to make this work as is. I tried an RX100 Shimano brake caliper, as well as a D/A. Neither allowed for brake shoes to hit only the rim - both were mounted and tightened, not merely eyeballed. So, I wonder if possibly a front caliper is needed for the rear mount, or if there are any other ways around this.

In terms of ideal gearing, I could probably play around with the gearing, but it would require a lot of changing (cranks for e.g., as well as possibly a freewheel and/or crank ring, depending on the fit).

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
An update...

Okay, I tried a 1/2 link and it wouldn't work either. With the 1/2 link it was too much correction. I tried flipping the ENO hub the other way (thinking there are 360 degrees available, not just 180, to make it work) but no matter what configuration I used (with or without the 1/2 link) I could not get it to work where the braking surface was close enough to allow brake contact (without hitting the tires as well), and not having the tire rub against the frame (at the brake arch).

My last-ditch change was to switch to a 20c tire, and I finally am able to make it work. I can't believe that a 1/2 link option PLUS an ENO hub still can't get me enough flexibility to make this work. I think going to a brake caliper that has longer reach is the simplest option, in all honesty - it just makes everything much easier. I probably wouldn't even have to use a 1/2 link then, the ENO would be enough.

I am going to try a different chainring, probably a little bigger. I'm currently running 16t freewheel, and a 42 chainring - I'll probably try a 44 with a different crank as I need to switch cranks anyway (to get a better chainline).

So the experimentation goes on. Thanks for the input, it has been very helpful.
 

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Are you running fixed or freewheel? I'd just skip the rear brake altogether if fixed.

I think it gives more mental reassurance then actual stopping power. But that's just my opinion.

I'm looking forward to seeing this Madone fixie! Wow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's a pic of it...

Okay, this is the first time trying to upload a pic, so bear with me if it doesn't work. Its a long time coming, I know someone earlier had said they wanted to see a pic so here it is. Finally got this baby working with a Cane Creek rear brake that was longer, as suggested.

Rides beautifully!

Thanks for the help,

larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks...

I like it. I'm pretty sure its original paint, and the holes where the stops that hold the cables would normally go are painted over, so I suspect this frame came from the factory this way. The der. hanger seems to be have been ground off, so I wonder if it was just off in terms of specs or dinged in the factory, making it a second that then got converted to a SS.

The rear wheel is the same as the front, 700c. The ENO hub offsets it, which makes it go further back (or front, but that made the tire rub the frame so this was the only option).

Very pleased overall with how it turned out. Its a blast to ride. Now I'll have to flip the hub and try fixed, I suppose...
 
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