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Be careful of focusing on how tall you are and what size the bike is.

Taller riders have less consistency is leg to upper body ratios. Smaller sized riders go for 54 x 54 squared and so forth. On larger riders you will see more extremes; long seat tube and short top tube and regular seat tube with super long top tube.

Fit is important and your primary concerns are going to be top tube length, seat tube angle, stack height and head tube length.

A 60 in one make is often nothing like a 60 in another. Not a big deal here because you are looking at the same frame in both sizes.

Although there is a 1.2m difference in top tubes it is actually just a little bit more than that because the larger frame has a slacker seat tube angle. You will have to have a little more setback on the saddle on the smaller frame to get in the same position as on the bigger frame. With all of the different bar choices these days it is easy to adjust for a lot of top tube length with the bars you choose. Make sure you can substitute bars for the ones that come with the bike if you need to. As mentioned you can also use a different stem length - but don't go to short. For sure not under 100mm on these large frames.

The next issue is your drop to the handlebars. A longer ride or a fitter will have to help you with that answer. Please do not get the bars higher by using a large degree stem.

The key is you need to get your saddle in the proper position compared to the BB and pedals, the right reach and the right drop. Do not worry too much about what the frame size is.

I am shorter than you and I ride a 61cm actual seat tube after 4 degrees of slope, a 62.5cm actual after 1 degree of slope and a 5 degree of slope frame that would be 67cm ctc if it was a level top tube. Must be about 62.5cm actual. But since my height is in my legs I have shorter top tubes.

Make sure you have someone competent at the shop to get your reach and drop efficient and comfortable.

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