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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
one of the touted features of the Power-torque system by Campy is ease of maintenance, but it looks anything but. From the installation instructions they have posted, it appears you need an extractor tool to remove the left crank arm, the same you need for removing the bearings in with the Ultra-torque system. Also I wonder how you're supposed to replace the bearings in the drive-side. Since the spindle is now twice longer, how are you supposed to use an extractor tool? You need a monstrous extractor with long enough arms to reach at the bearings.
 

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At first glance it looks like a copy of the Truvativ Rouleur system, where bearings are in the cups and the LH crank bolt is self extracting. Guess that would be too simple :rolleyes:
 

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simple..

Simple is not always the best answer. Many of the other systems are plagued with bearing adjustment problems and problems keeping the left crankarm in place. Campy still uses a wave washer to insure zero freeplay and a proper bearing preload. The bolt on the left side is torqued very tightly, so the left crankarm will stay in place and it has no effect on bearing preload.

I agree however, that there is nothing easier about installing or maintaining the crank. Obviously, a longer armed bearing puller will be needed and an appropriate crank arm puller.
 

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There's nothing wrong with the truvativ system. Had mine on at least three different bikes over the last 6 yrs, with no problems whatsoever other than worn chainring and bearings, all replaced. No special tools required. No preload issues. Even Lennard came out in praise of it. I'd assume there is a patent involved otherwise campy would have copied it.

Power torque looks more complicated to work on than it's predecessor - hardly a step forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Since power-torque is also offered with the CX cranks where the maintainance problem is even more important I wonder how this system will be accepted. As of now it's not clear how your're supposed to replace the bearings in the drive side. One can hope the bearings are not tightly pressed in the spindle, like UT requiring an extractor, but rather they can be inserted/removed by hands like all BB30 cranks.
 

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Started installing a 2011 Centaur groupset yesterday. Crank arm fixing bolt for power torque system needs a BIG hex wrench. It looks to be 14mm(no calipers) but it's not 10 or 12. Nothing in the instructions about needing a 14mm. Arrrrrrrrgh. Off to find one since local shop doesn't have one

Anybody else already install one?

Using a basic bearing removal tool to pull the L crankarm shouldn't be big a deal but wondering how to replace drive side bearings down the road...
 

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If they had used a 8mm hex, there would have been room to make it self extracting - and we wouldn't want that now, would we? :rolleyes:
 

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Yep. 14mm hex allen wrench needed to install Power Torque fixing bolt. 14mm is one big bad ass wrench - kind of a mini crowbar. L crankarm went on simply and easily with all that leverage.
 
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