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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't get the pedals off of my bike so that I can change them from the clip ins to regular pedals. I bought a pedal wrench but it wont work either. I think the previous owner tightened them way too tight because it wont even budge.

So my question is, how much should I expect to have to pay for pedal removal at a bike shop?

P.S... I know it's going to vary from shop to shop, but I'm just looking for a ball park range.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, I watched videos on YouTube and everything and can't get it to budge at all. I'm no strongman, but I'm also no weakling so I'm guessing that it's been tightened a little too much before.
 

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Pathlete and Pedalphile
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Yea, I watched videos on YouTube and everything and can't get it to budge at all. I'm no strongman, but I'm also no weakling so I'm guessing that it's been tightened a little too much before.
Probably no grease on threads when previously installed. Sounds like you need some more leverage. Getting back to your original question, I think most shops wouldn't charge you to break them loose. Maybe a few bucks.
 

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Recycle King
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Is it an allen wrench system or hex? My Look pedals are allen wrench system on the inside of the crank arms. My Shimano SPDs are hex which requires a pedal wrench. You might want to try using a hair dryer to heat up the threaded area since heat will cause metal to expand. I seen it does on a tv show Wheeler Dealers to loosen stubborn bolts.
 

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I do not think it will cost more than $5.

I took my stubborn pedals and got them removed at the LBS a couple of weeks ago. They did it for free.

The mechanic showed me his trick for stubborn pedals. He stood on the pedal arm with his foot to gain leverage while he used his hand to hold the hex wrench to loosen the pedal shaft bolt.
 

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Recycle King
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You can also try to get more leverage with a hammer to the end of the pedal wrench. As redondoaveb said, just make sure you are turning towards the right direction since it is confusing if you flip your bike to work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is it an allen wrench system or hex? My Look pedals are allen wrench system on the inside of the crank arms. My Shimano SPDs are hex which requires a pedal wrench. You might want to try using a hair dryer to heat up the threaded area since heat will cause metal to expand. I seen it does on a tv show Wheeler Dealers to loosen stubborn bolts.
Honestly, I'm quite the novice and don't know all the specifics but I am pretty sure they are a hex system. They are Shimano PD-R540's. If I had a hair dryer I would try that out! lol.
 

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I'd think that's something they wouldn't ever charge for. Bike shop mechs are generally very generous with little tasks and like this kind of work, and like to help people. Worth a call, though, some people are sticklers, not because they're greedy, but they're just sticklers.

Even when I didn't tighten the pedals much at installation, at removal they had tightened quite a lot from use, so it might not be the PO's installation that they're difficult, and the fact you're turning against your other arm, without the freewheel to stop them, makes it seem harder. I always remember that the drive (right) side turns the regular way (looking at the pedal), and the other side is the opposite. You can youtube this too.

I've always been able to use a 15mm open-end wrench, but always needed either another wrench linked on, or another foot or foot and a half of pipe, for leverage. You really want to make sure you're turning the right way for this. :)
 

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The post right above yours specified that, exactly two and a half inches above your comment (I measured it)!
I always remember that the drive (right) side turns the regular way (looking at the pedal), and the other side is the opposite.
If ever you're not sure, you can look up youtube, parktool, or the shimano technical documents.
 

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$0-$5 at my shop, depending upon whether you blame me for it even though you bought your bike elsewhere (seriously...it has happened).

More, of course, if the threads in the crank are messed up.
 

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A huge help is the normally very solid bike stands shops use. Its alot easier to loosen something when you have the bike well positioned and secured.

Im betting no grease on the threads. Unless its been a huge long time or the pedal axle is stripped from a bad pedal wrench, it will pop right off.

Good luck and let us know what they find.

BIll
 

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I know you watched the You Tube, but I want to make sure you understand that pedals are reverse threaded, so you have to loosen them going clockwise not counter clockwise.

Assuming you understand that then I would hit both ends of the crank arm, on the front where the pedal nut is tight against the arm and the backside of the arm where the opening is with BB Blaster and let it soak for about 4 hours. Then try again.

The hammer thing does work, but there is a slight chance you could crack the crank arm where the pedals interfaces.

If that fails the cost at an LBS is not going to be that much, maybe $10.
 

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Pathlete and Pedalphile
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I know you watched the You Tube, but I want to make sure you understand that pedals are reverse threaded, so you have to loosen them going clockwise not counter clockwise.

Assuming you understand that then I would hit both ends of the crank arm, on the front where the pedal nut is tight against the arm and the backside of the arm where the opening is with BB Blaster and let it soak for about 4 hours. Then try again.

The hammer thing does work, but there is a slight chance you could crack the crank arm where the pedals interfaces.

If that fails the cost at an LBS is not going to be that much, maybe $10.
I guess I've always been doing mine wrong. The drive side loosens counterclockwise and the non-drive side loosens clockwise on my bike.
 
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