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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Here's the deal. My main racing/training wheels are Neuvation M28 Aeros with Veloflex Pave tires. I fitted up an older set of Open Pros I had with Continental Grand Prix 4-Season tires so that I can ride on wet pavement or in rain with extra puncture protection while still using quality rubber.

Problem: Though both of my cassettes are the appropriate Shimano 9-speed models, when I put my Open Pros on the bike, there's a big difference with fit. Without adjusting the cable tension, the cassette on the OPs is precisely one position off (closer to the spokes). As a result, the chain has the ability to jump OFF the 12-tooth cog if I happen to not monitor it closely and it looks for another gear down low, and the chain lodges between the 12-tooth cog and the frame itself. Not good, of course. This even happens with the exact same cassette when I switch my main cassette from the Neuvies to the OPs as a test. On the big-cog (climbing gear) end, the cassette on the OPs won't go to the biggest/easiest gear. It's exactly one gear off. :(

Anyone else ever have this problem? What to do? It makes the whole point (being able to simply and conveniently switch out wheels for wet/nasty conditions) null and void if I have to do all sorts of cable adjusting each time I switch the wheels.

Your help/advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Nige
 

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This might be better off posted in the Components/Wrenching section.

Do your brakes still fit in center and work properly? Not skewed to the one side?

I can only guess one of the wheels need dished to the other side.

You could adjust the stop screws in the proper position to get the indexing down or dish the wheel if needed.



GiantNigel said:
Hi All,

Here's the deal. My main racing/training wheels are Neuvation M28 Aeros with Veloflex Pave tires. I fitted up an older set of Open Pros I had with Continental Grand Prix 4-Season tires so that I can ride on wet pavement or in rain with extra puncture protection while still using quality rubber.

Problem: Though both of my cassettes are the appropriate Shimano 9-speed models, when I put my Open Pros on the bike, there's a big difference with fit. Without adjusting the cable tension, the cassette on the OPs is precisely one position off (closer to the spokes). As a result, the chain has the ability to jump OFF the 12-tooth cog if I happen to not monitor it closely and it looks for another gear down low, and the chain lodges between the 12-tooth cog and the frame itself. Not good, of course. This even happens with the exact same cassette when I switch my main cassette from the Neuvies to the OPs as a test. On the big-cog (climbing gear) end, the cassette on the OPs won't go to the biggest/easiest gear. It's exactly one gear off. :(

Anyone else ever have this problem? What to do? It makes the whole point (being able to simply and conveniently switch out wheels for wet/nasty conditions) null and void if I have to do all sorts of cable adjusting each time I switch the wheels.

Your help/advice is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Nige
 

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What kind of hub do you have the Open Pros built with? Some hubs are made to use a spacer between the hub and cassette. I have a few wheels that are built using the Performance "Forte" hub, and they are made that way.
 

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MR_GRUMPY said:
What kind of hub do you have the Open Pros built with? Some hubs are made to use a spacer between the hub and cassette. I have a few wheels that are built using the Performance "Forte" hub, and they are made that way.
I have had wheel switches (usually on-road and off-road tires on a cross bike) that required 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the RD adjustor, but nothing this bad. I put spacers in to line them up. (I've also had the adjust the brake pads.)

This has to be a spacer problem of some sort, though. One cog off is almost a half a centimeter.

TF
 

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It's quite possible that a free hub spacer will NOT correct your problem. If you were missing a freehub/cassette spacer on your neuvations, it's unlikely that you would be able to close down the lockring on your cog before bottoming out on your freehub body. What you might need to do is to remove a thin axle spacer from the drive side of the neuvations (probably between 1.5-2mm -- I can't remember what half the width of a 9sp spacer and cog is) and insert it on the non-drive side under the axle lock nut. Or you could do the opposite and remove an axle spacer from the non-drive side of the open pros and add it to the drive side axle. So which option do you chose? Chose the one that is closest to the standard shimano or campy spacing that your bike is designed for. My guess is that the Neuvations are improperly spaced since Open Pros are usually built with standard shimano / campy hubs. Finally, after doing a spacer swap on the axle, you'll also have to redish the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
105 hub on the Open Pros.

Dumb me. I should've--and meant to--mention that the Open Pros have Shimano 105 hubs and that the Neuvations have their own proprietary ones.

To answer another question: yes, oddly enough, the tires are centered for both of them but it seems that the hubs are different widths. Could this be? One of them (can't recall which and they're not right near me right now) does require a spacer, but the other one won't take a spacer. Odd thing is that I'm pretty sure that it's the 105 that requires the spacer in order to fit the cassette properly. That's the one that's a half-centimeter (or so) to the LEFT (towards the spokes) and that won't land properly on the largest (27-tooth) cob--and that allows me to throw the chain to the outside--past the 12-tooth cog--and between the cassette and the frame.

Does this information help at all?

Again, big thanks for the ongoing advice/thoughts/consideration. I'd love to be able to solve this problem easily and without having to readjust the limits on my rear derailleur each time it rains and I switch wheels; it essentially means that my shifting will always be fussy and in need of fine tuning.

Cheers,
Nige
 

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Very strange. It almost sounds like your 105/Open Pro wheel needs a spacer behind the cassette. Only problem is that Shimano hubs shouldn't need a spacer with Shimano cassettes. Is the wheels new? If the wheel is used, the previous owner might have placed an axle spacer on the drive side. As a last resprt, you may have to remove an axle spacer from the drive side of your 105/Open pro wheel.
One way to tell for sure if something is screwed up is to measure the distance from the end of the cassette to the last lock nut on the axle. This will tell you if the wheel was put together wrong. This distance should be the same for almost all wheels.
 
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