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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK here's the deal. 2011 sram red shifters on my wife's bike.
I recently changed the inner chainring with an exact OEM replacement. Now the left shifter will not consistently move the chain to the outer chainring. It will only upshift when she is spinning within a specific cadence range an next to no load on the crank. The shifter does not 'click' to push the derailleur high enough to put the chain on the outer ring given any other than perfect shifting conditions. It did not do this before the swap.

When I did the small ring swap I put a new chain (pg1070) on and I moved the shift cable to the front(previously behind) of the handle bar and this changed the angle of the shift cable. With the cable in this position, the derailleur wouldn't work at all so I moved the cable back the rear of the handle bar, now it shifts as described.

This has become a pain in my ass cause up until the ring swap sram life was good. I have done some research here and apparently if the sun and moon aren't perfectly aligned a non yaw sram front derailleur will not work well.

Here are my thoughts: cable needs to be changed, I need to adjust something else, the shifter needs to be serviced or thrown in the trash.

What am I missing?:mad2:

Suggestions welcome.
 

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It's unlikely the shifter broke just from changing a chain and ring. But you may have introduced more friction into the cable run.

Disconnect the cable from the derailleur. Then test the shifter, does it now click when shifting to the large ring position? If so shift back down and pull the cable and see how freely and smoothly it returns and see if you introduced any binding in moving the cables. If it does not, consider re-doing your changes to the cable run. Now pull on the free cable and shift back into the large ring position with some tension. Does it still click or operate correctly?

If the shifter consistently clicks into the large ring position with you putting tension on the cable, I'm going to guess it's a limit screw preventing the derailleur from moving outboard enough for the shift. Check your limit screws and adjust as necessary.

That's what I would check first. May not be that and it could be a worn out shifter. Happens, I've blown through 2 right Rival shifters on my 2012 bike. Of course it may be something else entirely one of the professional mechanics who post here will probably chime in soon.
 

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If I'm not mistaken, there are two different exit routes you can use for the shift cable coming out of the shifter. I would remove the tape and pull back the hood and check to see if maybe you should use the other exit experimenting with the routing on the bar you wanted to try. I think also you can remove 3 screws on the little access plate and watch what is happening when you shift it up/down. Also check for crap in there.

Something else to consider is there are two different diameter shift cables, and SRAM specs the thinner (1.1 mm ) cable. If you used thicker (I think it is 1.2) that might make a difference (I currently run Yokozuna cable which I think is 1.2 and it works, but I think it might drag more than 1.1 would).

scott s.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's unlikely the shifter broke just from changing a chain and ring. But you may have introduced more friction into the cable run.

Disconnect the cable from the derailleur. Then test the shifter, does it now click when shifting to the large ring position? If so shift back down and pull the cable and see how freely and smoothly it returns and see if you introduced any binding in moving the cables. If it does not, consider re-doing your changes to the cable run. Now pull on the free cable and shift back into the large ring position with some tension. Does it still click or operate correctly?

If the shifter consistently clicks into the large ring position with you putting tension on the cable, I'm going to guess it's a limit screw preventing the derailleur from moving outboard enough for the shift. Check your limit screws and adjust as necessary.

That's what I would check first. May not be that and it could be a worn out shifter. Happens, I've blown through 2 right Rival shifters on my 2012 bike. Of course it may be something else entirely one of the professional mechanics who post here will probably chime in soon.

I tried the shifter when it's disconnected from the derailleur, with tension it 'clicks' just fine every time. It's not the limit screw, it's currenty on the edge of dropping the chain. How can something so simple be so freaking irritating?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If I'm not mistaken, there are two different exit routes you can use for the shift cable coming out of the shifter. I would remove the tape and pull back the hood and check to see if maybe you should use the other exit experimenting with the routing on the bar you wanted to try. I think also you can remove 3 screws on the little access plate and watch what is happening when you shift it up/down. Also check for crap in there.

Something else to consider is there are two different diameter shift cables, and SRAM specs the thinner (1.1 mm ) cable. If you used thicker (I think it is 1.2) that might make a difference (I currently run Yokozuna cable which I think is 1.2 and it works, but I think it might drag more than 1.1 would).

scott s.
.
I think I'll try this. Older SRAM is such a pain in the ass. I almost never have trouble with my Shimano.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I'll try this. Older SRAM is such a pain in the ass. I almost never have trouble with my Shimano.
So I took a little closer look at the derailleur last night. It was out of alignment by about 1mm, rotated ever so slightly clockwise.
Loosened it up, lined it up with small ring and voila! the damn thing shifts every time. Funny thing, I didn't touch the derailleur at any time during any tooling around with the crank...WTF... I still like my Shimano better.
 
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