[bikingmeditation]

I am experiencing a problem with the front derailler on my Look 695SR with SRAM 2012 Red with Yaw: it won't shift from the small front chainring into the big chainring while riding. It appears as though there is some flex in the derailleur and the carbon brazeon. It might also be the chainring and a bad chain line, but it seems like the flex is the main issue. I have the new sram red with yaw and the LBS can get it to shift on the stand but on the trainer with even the slightest resistance, it doesn't want to go into the big ring!

Has anyone else experienced this? How did you fix it?

 

[cxwrench]

does it shift on the road? trainers can cause shifting problems that won't show themselves on the stand or on the road because of the constant resistance. if it shifts well on the road, i wouldn't try making it any better. or, just put in the big ring on the trainer and leave it there.

 

[bikingmeditation]

does it shift on the road? trainers can cause shifting problems that won't show themselves on the stand or on the road because of the constant resistance. if it shifts well on the road, i wouldn't try making it any better. or, just put in the big ring on the trainer and leave it there.

I get the same problem on the road.

 

[cxwrench]

if that's the case, it's not set up properly. the yaw derailleur is as close as it gets to Di2 w/o a battery and a Shimano label.

 

[Aggdaddy]

Not to downplay SRAM, but I could never get consistent front derailer shifts with my Sram rival front derailer. It was the one time I went with a bike that had sram on it.

I had adjusted it and my bike shop adjusted it. It work right for a few months then not be able to shift to the upper ring at all.

Never had that issue with Shimano groupsets. Used tiagra to Ultegra.

Maybe it was the bike (fuji cross 2.0), but it definitely turned me off to sram groups.

 

[bikingmeditation]

Not to downplay SRAM, but I could never get consistent front derailer shifts with my Sram rival front derailer. It was the one time I went with a bike that had sram on it.

I had adjusted it and my bike shop adjusted it. It work right for a few months then not be able to shift to the upper ring at all.

Never had that issue with Shimano groupsets. Used tiagra to Ultegra.

Maybe it was the bike (fuji cross 2.0), but it definitely turned me off to sram groups.

I'm feeling the same. I prefer double-tap and the SRAM shifter feel/reach, but I'd prefer they work properly 100% of time!

 

[cxwrench]

I'm feeling the same. I prefer double-tap and the SRAM shifter feel/reach, but I'd prefer they work properly 100% of time!

SRAM derailleurs are as good as any (excepting the first gen Ti cage Red front) and if they don't work it's because they're not set up properly. there are TONS of incompetent mechanics out there making decent livings working at bike shops. i correct their mistakes quite often.
let me repeat...if your front derailleur isn't shifting correctly, it's not the derailleur's fault.

 

[RoadrunnerLXXI]

I have to second cxwrench's comment. When I brought my Cervelo S2, I had a slight chain rub and I thought that is natural when in small cog in the rear and small chainring in the front. Then, last month I brought a K-Edge chain catcher and had to uninstall the FD to install the catcher and reinstall the FD. After watching numerous youtube videos on how to install the catcher and how to adjust the FD, I now only have a minor graze when in those gear setting. It took me some trial and error to fine tune it but I managed to make it happen. I don't think I can go back to Shimano after riding with Sram.

 

[GDTRFB]

I had early problems with my Force FD, which dropped the chain frequently. I got a warranty replacement, and I haven't dropped a chain in over 5000 miles. Nothing but smooth, quiet, positive shifts. I did notice that a KMC or Shimano chain provides better shifting that a SRAM 1070.
I have New (well, old 10-speed new Red) with the Yaw FD, and although it has to be set up differently, once it is, it shifts flawlessly. I don't even hear it going from the 34t-50t, and it drops from the 50t to the 34t instantly. It uses a SRAM 1091r chain.
I also have Rival on my tri-bike, (with a 1050 chain) and that shifts without any problems as well.

Just an observation, but my Force (to some degree) & especially my new Red run much quieter than Ultegra Di2 & mechanical 6700.

SRAM set up properly shifts as good as any Shimano equivalent group.
I'll be interested to see how their 11-speed (new, new Red) & eventually electronic groups perform.

 

[RoadrunnerLXXI]

Did you had to upgrade your shifters to use the Red FD with trim adjustment? What about for Force FD?

 

[GDTRFB]

Did you had to upgrade your shifters to use the Red FD with trim adjustment? What about for Force FD?

I have a full 2011 Force group on one bike & full 2012 Red (10 speed with Yaw) on another.

 

[RoadrunnerLXXI]

I am asking because I plan on upgrading the Rival FD(come with full Rival group) to improve on shifting and to eliminate the small cog - small chain ring chain rub since both Red and Force have trim adjustment to fine tune it. If I can do it without having to upgrade my Rival shifter, that would be worth doing.

 

[GDTRFB]

I am asking because I plan on upgrading the Rival FD(come with full Rival group) to improve on shifting and to eliminate the small cog - small chain ring chain rub since both Red and Force have trim adjustment to fine tune it. If I can do it without having to upgrade my Rival shifter, that would be worth doing.

The Rival & Force FD's are identical, their only difference is in the decals.
Trim comes from the shifter on Force & 2011 & earlier Red. 2012 Red with Yaw does not have trim.
I have read that the Yaw FD works on Force & Rival drivetrains, I'm not sure if it eliminates the need for trim.

I wouldn't change anything to gain the use of a small/small combo, that's a cross-chain combo that is a redundant gear ratio.
Go the the 50t instead.