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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my challenge. Cantis on a tandem. Because of the extra length of cable to the rear, the cables need to be set pretty tight to get decent brake performance - so tight that it's tough to get the link wire off of the canti arm to remove the wheel.

Yeah, switching to a longer link wire would help, but I like my mechanical advantage where it is, and there's not a lot of room to the hanger. And yeah, I can use the barrel adjusters, but that's a pain, they're way up at the other end of the bike, and I'd rather save that travel for it's intended purpose.

So, is there any sort of QR cable hanger solution available? I recall seeing some homebuilt solutions, but can't find them now. I also remember an inline lever dohickey, but that might have been to make an STI front lever work with three rings.

I've got some ideas based on making the frame cable stops shallower, but any other thoughts or solutions would be appreciated.
 

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QR hanger

danl1 said:
Here's my challenge. Cantis on a tandem. Because of the extra length of cable to the rear, the cables need to be set pretty tight to get decent brake performance - so tight that it's tough to get the link wire off of the canti arm to remove the wheel.
There have been cable hangers that attach to the seat post bolt and have a cam operated quick release. Such an item exists, but I can't advise where to find it. When we ran canti's on our tandems, our brakes allowed the link wire to simply disconnect from one side brake arm with a pull. That was a standard feature of cantilever brakes, back in the day.
 

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they were made years ago- like the 60s...

scour ebay- they pop up every now and then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kerry Irons said:
There have been cable hangers that attach to the seat post bolt and have a cam operated quick release. Such an item exists, but I can't advise where to find it. When we ran canti's on our tandems, our brakes allowed the link wire to simply disconnect from one side brake arm with a pull. That was a standard feature of cantilever brakes, back in the day.
Still is. My setup is just a bit too tight for that to work well. I'd be better off with a traditional straddle wire and hanger, but the link wire is stiff enough and low enough that I don't have the slack for that to happen easily. I can just about get it, but I need to fiddle with the barrel adjuster to get it without busting a nail.

Man, that sounded girly.
 

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It's fairly easy to modify hangers to accept an adjuster similar to that which is used on MTB brake levers. Set your brakes up so the adjuster is screwed most of the way up and when you need to undo the straddle wire just screw it down a couple turns. It's simple and quick. Good luck.

PS: A shop that's been around a while might have the cam operated Dia Compe hanger you're remembering. I've got a couple but don't want to part with them.
 

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You can add an in-line barrel adjuster to just about any section of cable housing. Still a pain to fiddle with.

I have some never-used DiaCompe QR straddle carriers that may be what you really want in theory, but I am not sure I trust them. They are pretty flimsy -- especially the little plastic wheel that carries the straddle cable. I have three and one of them appears to have fallen apart just riding around in my parts box.

What kind of canti brakes are you using? In the last couple seasons some canti brakes have started to incorporate barrel adjusters and it may be possible to retrofit: http://cyclocrossworld.stores.yahoo.net/trpadbrbafor.html
 

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danl1 said:
Here's my challenge. Cantis on a tandem. Because of the extra length of cable to the rear, the cables need to be set pretty tight to get decent brake performance - so tight that it's tough to get the link wire off of the canti arm to remove the wheel.

Yeah, switching to a longer link wire would help, but I like my mechanical advantage where it is, and there's not a lot of room to the hanger. And yeah, I can use the barrel adjusters, but that's a pain, they're way up at the other end of the bike, and I'd rather save that travel for it's intended purpose.

So, is there any sort of QR cable hanger solution available? I recall seeing some homebuilt solutions, but can't find them now. I also remember an inline lever dohickey, but that might have been to make an STI front lever work with three rings.

I've got some ideas based on making the frame cable stops shallower, but any other thoughts or solutions would be appreciated.
Would the Surly hanger shown on this page work?
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html
 

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PeanutButterBreath said:
Duh -- I even have one of those installed on a bike.

Good call. Probably the handiest of the barrel adjuster options.
I wasn't sure it would work for Dan because it sounds like he already has a hanger brazed onto the frame, and this is a rather long hanger, which is part of his original problem.
 

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Are you running a traditional straddle wire with a carrier, or one of the more recent link-wires where the main brake cable runs all the way to the brake arm? The former setup is a lot more flexible, i.e., you can adjust your arm angles independent of your main cable tension. You can get the same arm angles you've got now, but you would have more lever travel to get there. That extra bit will make it easier to get the straddle wire out of the brake arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To answer a few details:

- Current Brakes are Avid Shorty 4's from a few years back.

- Using a link wire rather than a traditional straddle. I've considered swapping that out for a couple of reasons, but I'm not sure how much I'll gain for this problem because...

-I'm really tight on cable space. The stoker's ST is only 46, the current hanger is a Tektro that hangs off of the seat clamp.

Even with it, there's only 1.5cm's between it and the link wire button. when the brake is applied. So a Surly won't fit, and a straddle wire may not buy me much. There's just not room to decrease the straddle angle/lengthen the straddle much.

-I'm running out of places to add adjusters - the TT end of the brake noodle is about the only space left. There's another short hanger that includes one

But it looks like it might give me an alignment problem.



Maybe I'll swap to linear pull and travel agents. Sigh.

Thanks for the suggestions thus far - I'll need to look at those straddle adjusters a bit more, and perhaps just a traditional straddle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
PeanutButterBreath said:
Tektro makes Mini-V brakes that do not require Travel Agents.
I've been considering those, too. I had one tandem team report that they love 'em, and a few others with a decidedly different opinion. Like all things canti and V, it's all in the setup.
 

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I thought about inline connectors, too. However, I think inline adjusters would be better. In-line connectors (not adjusters) can be a pain when you've got a fair amount of tension on the cable and want to reconnect. Not really that hard but just fiddly. I've got 'em on my travel bike with S&S couplers.

Inline adjusters might allow enough slack but you'd really have to try them to be sure. All in all, inline might not be the best solution.
 

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What kind of levers are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Mel Erickson said:
What kind of levers are you using?
I did leave that detail out, didn't I? Shimano 105. {edit, because I lied: Tiagra.}

I have an inline up front near the TT braze on. They're fiddly and inelegant, and needing to go from one end of the bike to the other is a bother. I have a feeling they'd not treat me well if I tried to add one to the rear noodle - it's just not very long, and the bend seems like it'd make it unsmooth.

Cable breakaways are an intriguing solution. I haven't messed with them enough to know if they'd be a bother or not. Need to see if I can find some to play with.
 

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So, I'm assuming STI? Because if you have bar end or mountain shifters you could go with a lever that had a release built into the lever. Do the Modolo Morphos levers have a quick release built into the lever? Since they're designed to work with Shimano and Campy they may have because Campy has the quick release in the lever. Without a lever quick release you wouldn't have one on Campy brakes. The Modolo website and catalog don't say one way or the other.
 
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