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Sooo...A little background. I got the wild idea about a week ago to build the lightest wheelset I could for the least money. I'm shooting for 1200g and $180. These wheels are not supposed to make any sense, especially considering I just built some 32h Record hubs on some blingin' ano-red Ambrosio rims. They're great wheels, but they weigh 1800g. Great for crit racing...and everything else, as far as I'm concerned. So this is a pet project at best, and a game at worst. And whatever the case, for $180, they'll be worth it in the one HC TT I do per year.

Because they sponsor my team, I can get IRD Cadence rims for pocket change, and the ugly ano-silver versions for even cheaper. Check. Spokes are easy: Mike at oddsandendos.com. Check. Hubs were a bigger problem... American Classic sucks at everything they've ever done, and I won't even consider another one of their products. Record hubs are my first choice for everything, but I want minimal spoke counts. Mike's Speedcific rear hub is a lot heavier than Record, so I wouldn't be saving any weight (or much money) over 28h Record rear. So I started trolling eBay...

I'm 150 lbs in the middle of winter, so I want to go with as few spokes as I can get away with. Though they don't post it on their website, IRD does make a 20h Cadence. Nice. I found a 20h Campy WCS rear hub on eBay for $30, and bought it on a whim, knowing nothing about its internals or even its apporximate weight. Luckily, it's 248g - about Record's weight...but with 20 spokes. So the plan is WCS rear hub, Speedcific front hub - both 20h; IRD Cadence rims, 20h; AE15 radial front; AE15 2x non-drive, and 14g Marwi Ti 2x drive-side. ...Yeah, they're expensive, but when you're only buying ten of them, not so bad. And they'll be stiff as heck and capable of very high tension for not much weight. Brass nipples on the DS, Al everywhere else.

As for the Ritchey hub, if you can still find any, they're pretty nice. Loud as hell out of the box, but they come apart with a 2.5mm wrench, a quick smattering of Prep-M, and I can't even hear them anymore. I rode some almost identical (inside, at least) Pro-Z Disc hubs on my rigid SS mtb for about two years with zero issues, so I expect this to be a remarkably good hub!
 

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tofurkey hunting
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sounds like a fun wheelset

now get to work so we can see completed pics.....and a full bike shot as well! :D
 

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Hubs...

SDizzle said:
Sooo...A little background. I got the wild idea about a week ago to build the lightest wheelset I could for the least money. I'm shooting for 1200g and $180. These wheels are not supposed to make any sense, especially considering I just built some 32h Record hubs on some blingin' ano-red Ambrosio rims. They're great wheels, but they weigh 1800g. Great for crit racing...and everything else, as far as I'm concerned. So this is a pet project at best, and a game at worst. And whatever the case, for $180, they'll be worth it in the one HC TT I do per year.

Because they sponsor my team, I can get IRD Cadence rims for pocket change, and the ugly ano-silver versions for even cheaper. Check. Spokes are easy: Mike at oddsandendos.com. Check. Hubs were a bigger problem... American Classic sucks at everything they've ever done, and I won't even consider another one of their products. Record hubs are my first choice for everything, but I want minimal spoke counts. Mike's Speedcific rear hub is a lot heavier than Record, so I wouldn't be saving any weight (or much money) over 28h Record rear. So I started trolling eBay...

I'm 150 lbs in the middle of winter, so I want to go with as few spokes as I can get away with. Though they don't post it on their website, IRD does make a 20h Cadence. Nice. I found a 20h Campy WCS rear hub on eBay for $30, and bought it on a whim, knowing nothing about its internals or even its apporximate weight. Luckily, it's 248g - about Record's weight...but with 20 spokes. So the plan is WCS rear hub, Speedcific front hub - both 20h; IRD Cadence rims, 20h; AE15 radial front; AE15 2x non-drive, and 14g Marwi Ti 2x drive-side. ...Yeah, they're expensive, but when you're only buying ten of them, not so bad. And they'll be stiff as heck and capable of very high tension for not much weight. Brass nipples on the DS, Al everywhere else.

As for the Ritchey hub, if you can still find any, they're pretty nice. Loud as hell out of the box, but they come apart with a 2.5mm wrench, a quick smattering of Prep-M, and I can't even hear them anymore. I rode some almost identical (inside, at least) Pro-Z Disc hubs on my rigid SS mtb for about two years with zero issues, so I expect this to be a remarkably good hub!

I hate to tell you this, but Ritchey hubs are made by the same people that make American Classic, using an American Classic design. At least they did last year....
 

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too true on the ritchey-amer classic connection

had to send my rear ritchey protocol in on the recall--most of the WCS hubs were recalled.
check your hub and the ritchey website to see. mine came back in 2 weeks and they threw in a free tire.
anyway, i rode wcs ocr aero and now the protocols and i like the hubs and wheels just fine.
think i like sestriere and eurus better, but my opinion means little
jim
 

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durangoscott said:
I hate to tell you this, but Ritchey hubs are made by the same people that make American Classic, using an American Classic design. At least they did last year....
I don't think this particular hub is made by Am Classic. Ritchey's 2005 carbon and WCS wheels definitely did use Am Classic hubs (rebranded), though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
weiwentg said:
I don't think this particular hub is made by Am Classic. Ritchey's 2005 carbon and WCS wheels definitely did use Am Classic hubs (rebranded), though.
Right. This hub is NOT the WCS Protocol hub manufactured by American Classic. I'm guessing this is MY 2004 or older. Either way, the internals are totally different from American Classic's. After breaking the axle on my AC hub, I got to know its insides pretty well. Believe it or not, this hub's internals are much simpler, and - from the looks of it, at least - much more durable. (ie, fewer moving parts.)

AC hubs have a sort of primary engagement that activated the real engagement on the freehub, and (I believe - I'm not too sure) the 'primary plate' was the source of all its failures: because the real engagement relied on this primary engagement, failure of the first resulted in total failure. (When you open an AC hub, though, they look like they complement eachother.) This hub's freehub engagement is one step, and fits together like a 'socket', with each pawl held in by a common snap ring. The pawls on this hub are about twice as wide as AC's, too.
 
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