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If I were to get a 11 speed Shimano 105 crank set, would it work with my existing 10 speed drive train (Dura Ace 7900)?
 

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If I were to get a 11 speed Shimano 105 crank set, would it work with my existing 10 speed drive train (Dura Ace 7900)?
11 speed Shimano RS500 with 10 speed Ultegra 6600 10 speed Rd and Ultegra 6500 9 speed fd..
Works flawlessly (configuration is 10 speed cassette)


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Kinda redundant question since it's a matter of the wideth of the chain not the wideth of chainwheels


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The spacing between the cogs has decreased, but the spacing between the chainrings hasn't decreased from 10-speed to 11-speed.

And to split hairs a bit more, the O.D. of the chains has been reducing, but the I.D. is still 3/32" - making chains "reverse compatible", e.g. an 11-speed chain will work on a 10-speed cassette and chainring, but not the other way around.
 

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The spacing between the cogs has decreased, but the spacing between the chainrings hasn't decreased from 10-speed to 11-speed.

And to split hairs a bit more, the O.D. of the chains has been reducing, but the I.D. is still 3/32" - making chains "reverse compatible", e.g. an 11-speed chain will work on a 10-speed cassette and chainring, but not the other way around.
To clarify, I was speaking generally - I agree on both counts.

My point was that both chain width and chainring spacing matter, so... not redundant.
 

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Not redundant.

The width between chainrings matters as well. As speeds have increased, chains have narrowed, as has distance between rings.

6-speed, 7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed?

There's no problem with the OP's scenario....


Interesting. I always thought the teeth on the chain rings became narrower as chains got narrower. Apparently not.

And sorry to thread jack, but would a 10-speed chain work with an 7/8-speed crankset?
 

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- Chainrings have not gotten closer together as cog count has gone up
- The I.D. (inside dimension) of chains has not gotten narrower
- The O.D. (outside dimension) of chains has gotten narrower - the pins are shorter and, in later (10, 11) chains, the plates are thinner
- You can use a "higher count" chain on a "lower count" drive train - to a point. The outside of the plates are key in shifting. Using an 11-speed chain on a 10-speed drive train will be fine, but using an 11-speed chain on an 9-speed drivetrain, shifting would suffer.
 

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Interesting. I always thought the teeth on the chain rings became narrower as chains got narrower. Apparently not.

And sorry to thread jack, but would a 10-speed chain work with an 7/8-speed crankset?
I think my wording in the post you reference caused some confusion, so to clarify - as OD of chains has narrowed, chainring teeth have been remachined slightly right to accommodate them.

The link I posted states "These chainrings have the teeth slightly farther to the right than the older chainrings to work a little better with the narrower chains. There is no difference whatever in the crank spiders."

No difference in spiders means no difference in spacing.

Similar to what OldZaskar posted and to answer your question, I'd go back one gen on chains (9 spd for 7-8 spd drivetrains/ 10 spd for 9...), so shifting would probably suffer in your scenario. Plus, from a durability/ cost standpoint, I see no payback.

Here's more info on the history of chains:

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Chains/Chain_sizes
 

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I think my wording in the post you reference caused some confusion, so to clarify - as OD of chains has narrowed, chainring teeth have been remachined slightly right too accommodate them.

The link I posted states "These chainrings have the teeth slightly farther to the right than the older chainrings to work a little better with the narrower chains. There is no difference whatever in the crank spiders."

No difference in spiders means no difference in spacing.

Similar to what OldZaskar posted and to answer your question, I'd go back one gen on chains (9 spd for 7-8 spd drivetrains/ 10 spd for 9...), so shifting would probably suffer in your scenario. Plus, from a durability/ cost standpoint, I see no payback.

Here's more info on the history of chains:

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Chains/Chain_sizes

OK, thanks PJ352. The reason I am looking into this is that I'm looking for a square taper crankset with touring type gearing to work with a 10-speed drivetrain. The only thing I've come up with is a Sugino crankset which is marketed as 7/8-speed. If front shifting is a little clunky, I can deal with that. If it will mean more frequent chain drops, that's a deal breaker.
 

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OK, thanks PJ352. The reason I am looking into this is that I'm looking for a square taper crankset with touring type gearing to work with a 10-speed drivetrain. The only thing I've come up with is a Sugino crankset which is marketed as 7/8-speed. If front shifting is a little clunky, I can deal with that. If it will mean more frequent chain drops, that's a deal breaker.
Just curious why you're staying with square taper. BB's are cheap and assuming the frame has a BSA (or similar) BB shell you have lots of choices... Hollowtech ii for one.
 

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Just curious why you're staying with square taper. BB's are cheap and assuming the frame has a BSA (or similar) BB shell you have lots of choices... Hollowtech ii for one.

I tried a Hollowtech II crankset and BB. I never could get it to play nice. No matter how I experimented with the adapters, shifting was horrible. Dangerous ghost shifting was almost constant.
 
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