This is incorrect.Blue 242 or 243 - shake well, apply to clean, dry threads, then assemble and wait. It takes 24 hrs to fully cure. There are wicking types to be applied after assembly, but those are green and low viscosity. Only the tape versions are meant to be applied days before assembly.
Of course you're correct on the grade applications of medium strength (blue) vs. high strength (red). The wicking (green) stuff is used by some wheel builders to secure nipples after the build is completed.This is incorrect.
Loctite is rarely used on a bike, but where it's used we should use the right stuff. All brake bolts are fine with the medium strength, but for what we're talking about, the jockey pulley bolts, they call for high strength.
So the medium strength stuff is for caliper fixing bolts, rotor fixing bolts, brake pad fixing bolts, etc. Brake stuff. Jockey pulleys always get high strength and they're the only place on the bike that does.
Never heard or seen of yellow Loctite. Will keep my eyes open, though. There is a purple, which is low strength.There's also yellow stuff like the 641 which is required on some press-fit bottom bracket applications. I just was forced to put some on a Cervelo bottom bracket after trying quite hard to do a dry installation without any creaks. It worked.
Not weird at all. The thread lockers are based on acrylics, the curing (polymerization) of which is oxygen inhibited. After you use something like 242 Blue, go back the next day - any excess squeezed out of the fastened joint will typically still be a liquid and can be easily wiped away.Loctite only hardens in the absence of air (weird!).
There's enough air in the tube to inhibit polymerization, and the tube is somewhat permeable to oxygen. Put it in a metal tube, exclude air, and it will set up. There's actually an inhibitor in the system (usually MEHQ) that requires oxygen to work effectively.If it hardens on the absence of oxy, why doesn't it harden in the container with the cap on? This does not make sense.
I've always just used the blue loctite on pulley bolts, and never had one come loose.
Loctite only hardens in the absence of air (weird!). So apply it and tighten the bolt. Like the other posters mentioned, it takes time to reach full strength.
Not weird at all. The thread lockers are based on acrylics, the curing (polymerization) of which is oxygen inhibited. After you use something like 242 Blue, go back the next day - any excess squeezed out of the fastened joint will typically still be a liquid and can be easily wiped away.
If it hardens on the absence of oxy, why doesn't it harden in the container with the cap on? This does not make sense.
I like that part about the blue stick that is it oil tolerant. I know that they make some liquid that is oil tolerant, but I could not find it in the small bottles. Those 4 oz are just way too much. I think I have had the same blue bottle for 2 yrs.I usually use Loctite 248 (blue) for medium strength and 268 (red) for high strength. This is the stick form of 243 and 263, and is much more convenient to use than the liquid forms. I rarely use 268 on bikes, I've found that 248 and proper torque usually holds fine on a most of the bicycle applications, including jockey wheel bolts.
From Henkel:641 and 609 are the retaining ones used for pf30 bb cups and bb30 bearings. ... These are not glue. They fill the uneven gaps in pf30 ( and bb30) shells. And they are green, not yellow.