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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last week I have noticed that the housings of my shifters cables were rubing against the fork of my Tarmac Pro and were eating the clear coat. I have fixed the clear coat and have put 3M film over the fork to protect it, but I have noticed that the shifters cable housings are not routed the same way on all road bikes. Mine do not cross, but it does not seam to be always the case. When cable housings are crossing, the housings do not rub as much against the fork. I have found the following picture of another Tarmac Pro were the cable housings are crossing:


They do not seam to be crossing when I look at the Tarmac Pro on the Specialized web site:


So is it better to cross the cable housings or not? On bikes having crossed cable housings, do the cables cross again under the downtube?
 

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Not better, just different.

So is it better to cross the cable housings or not?
There are several routing schemes, depending on how much cable you have to play with. Mine are long enough to cross twice - once just under and in front of the bars, then again just before they go around the headtube. That way, they don't have to cross under the downtube. They do rub the head tube, but I don't care about that.

BTW: if you get a chance, check with your LBS about a Specialized Tarmac Pro stem recall. The magnesium faceplates have been called in.
 

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one cure creates another problem...

Crossing the cables, so the right cable goes to the left side and the left cable goes to the right, at the head tube, often eliminates cable housing rub on the head tube.
The cables then cross again under the downtube. Depending on the location of the cable stops near the head tube, the cables may rub on the underside of the down tube and make noise from slapping the DT. I cure this problem with a thin, thumnail sized stainless steel bumper, attached with silicon adhesive/caulk.

Some frames, like the Cervelo R3 have the cable stops located in such a position that even the crossed routing is not likely to cure the rub, so protective tape is the only answer. The LOOK 585 has permanently mounted cable guides on the head tube - the best posssible solution.

I've never heard of the routing mentioned by wim. I think what he really means is that the cables are long enough to overlap in the middle, rather than have a gap between them. That's fine, but it does nothing to help the head tube rub.
 

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I think what he really means is that the cables are long enough to overlap in the middle, rather than have a gap between them. That's fine, but it does nothing to help the head tube rub.
That's correct. On rough roads, they also rattle against each other at the two overlaps.
 
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