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Discussion Starter #1
these are from the croce d' aune brakeset. white hoods. they probably used the same levers in others brakes like delta or chorus.

1. on the front of the lever there is a small allen nut adjustment. clockwise says "+" and counterclockwise says "-". what is this intended to do? in your experience does it work? i want to simplify and get rid of it which is why I ask. i'm thinking this is a gimick that does not work.

2. these don't have return springs. i want to get some newer campy calipers but most of these are designed to work with levers/brifters that have return springs. if I get some of these calipers, will there no be enough caliper spring "umph" to work with these levers?

3. If the answer to 2. is "not recommended" then were the campy single pivot (ie pre dual pivot) calipers designed to work with levers without a return spring? specifically i'm looking at older veloce (the painted ones) or athena monoplanar (i'm gonna try to stay away from these as the croce gave me enough gimmicks to last a lifetime). I'd like some basic super or nuovo records but they go for $$$

RANT : why the he** did they not slot these for aero routing. I had to file them myself, did not do a perfect job and now both are f'ed up.
 

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Changes the effort required

Or so Campy said. The allen screw will change the point of the fulcrum making it either harder ar easier to apply the brakes. I really couldn't tell if it worked. BTW, the new lever will work just fine with the old equipment
 

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Discussion Starter #3
did you mean the newer calipers will work fine with my older levers?

i'm rethinking using these levers due to the fact one has a crack and the other is missing a small chunk of metal. i actually vaguely remember calling campy about this (that they were non-slotted for aero)they said its a diy project then when i screwed it up i called them back and i think they sent me slotted ones but i've managed to lose them.

the mini allen screws and fulcrum thingy will be removed if that's possibly. i want easy to squeeze brakes and with some newer style calipers(with a weaker spring i believe) they should be easy to squeeze. I'm really trying to keep the bike I'm building all campy and I do not like these campy levers, I like the feel of shimano's better. The campy's seem shorter and too curved where my 2 fingers squeze them. In addition my hands never rested on the campy hoods as comfortably as they do the shimano's. The shimano's feel more ergonomically friendly to my hands. As much as I want to keep it all campy I may just use some old 105 levers I have laying around. I've got the campy levers here off the bike and the bottom of the rubber hood interferes with the action of the lever. too many negatives with these levers...but i'm not certain so if you have any ideas let me know. or if you have any older campy aero levers and calipers you want to sell pm me (not brifter style). I really want my bike all campy. I hope I can use my C record post (it must be extended a minimum certain amount bc it is aero at the top).
 

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If you're willing to consider non-Campy

Friction_Shifter said:
did you mean the newer calipers will work fine with my older levers?

i'm rethinking using these levers due to the fact one has a crack and the other is missing a small chunk of metal. i actually vaguely remember calling campy about this (that they were non-slotted for aero)they said its a diy project then when i screwed it up i called them back and i think they sent me slotted ones but i've managed to lose them.

the mini allen screws and fulcrum thingy will be removed if that's possibly. i want easy to squeeze brakes and with some newer style calipers(with a weaker spring i believe) they should be easy to squeeze. I'm really trying to keep the bike I'm building all campy and I do not like these campy levers, I like the feel of shimano's better. The campy's seem shorter and too curved where my 2 fingers squeze them. In addition my hands never rested on the campy hoods as comfortably as they do the shimano's. The shimano's feel more ergonomically friendly to my hands. As much as I want to keep it all campy I may just use some old 105 levers I have laying around. I've got the campy levers here off the bike and the bottom of the rubber hood interferes with the action of the lever. too many negatives with these levers...but i'm not certain so if you have any ideas let me know. or if you have any older campy aero levers and calipers you want to sell pm me (not brifter style). I really want my bike all campy. I hope I can use my C record post (it must be extended a minimum certain amount bc it is aero at the top).
Back in the day, when aero levers were first appearing on the scene and Campy wasn't making them yet, a VERY common substitute was the aero Gran Compe brake lever. In the 85-87 period, it seemed most Campy riders had switched to these levers to get the brake cables out of their faces.

Again referring you to e-bay, they look like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-DiaComp...ryZ42331QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And BTW, I have nothing for sale whatever on ebay. It's just that whenever I'm looking for a picture of anything, ebay is always the first place I look!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I remember those levers. My 85 Dale had the basic dia compe aero levers(with the basic dia compe brake calipers). In addition my friend had a set of the Royal Gran Compes. I think I'm gonna start out with my Campy Croce levers and if they pis* me off then think about what to do. I would prefer the dia compes over shimanos though. I assure you there with be nothing shimano on this bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
one problem with using Dia Compe levers

is that they don't have the "quick release" button that the more modern Campy calipers require. When did Campy change from the quick release on the calipers to the quick release on the levers. I wish they would have kept them on the calipers. That brings up another ? that I had. With the more recent calipers (and by more recent I'm talking at least the last 16 years or longer) ie the ones that don't have a quick release, is there enough adjustment in the barrel tightener/loosener to remove a wheel? In other words if I did end up getting those dia compe levers and set the barrel nut mostly counterclockwise would I be able to tighten it clockwise enough so that I could remove my wheel (to change a tubular)?
 

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Friction_Shifter said:
is that they don't have the "quick release" button that the more modern Campy calipers require. When did Campy change from the quick release on the calipers to the quick release on the levers. I wish they would have kept them on the calipers. That brings up another ? that I had. With the more recent calipers (and by more recent I'm talking at least the last 16 years or longer) ie the ones that don't have a quick release, is there enough adjustment in the barrel tightener/loosener to remove a wheel? In other words if I did end up getting those dia compe levers and set the barrel nut mostly counterclockwise would I be able to tighten it clockwise enough so that I could remove my wheel (to change a tubular)?
The last generation of Campy calipers that I recall having the QR on the caliper was the C-Record Cobalto, the last of the old-style single pivot brakes, that had the little blue gemstone on the pivot. When they came out with the C-Record Delta's (for Record) and Monoplanar's (for Chorus) the QR had migrated to the brake levers.

I can't say absolutely for certain, but I think if you ride sewups (anything other than fatties, like Paris-Roubaix or Campionato del Mondo tires) there should be enough clearance to get the tire through the brake calipers even without a QR. If you only take the wheel off when it's flat, then put it back on before you reinflate it -- then definitely no problem at all!

If you set your brakes on the "loose" side, you can probably get the wheel on and off with the tire inflated if you just give it pop with the heel of your hand.
 
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