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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I'm thinking about cleaning my 10-speed cassette using a little Simple Green on a rag and then flossing. Since I'm using Simple Green, is it necessary to rinse the cassette with water afterwards? If so, would you lightly spray it down with a hose, or just floss it a second time with a wet or dry rag? It's not like I'll be spraying down the cassette with Simple Green, just adding a small amount to a rag to help clean some off some of the grease. I don't have a brush at the moment so that's why I'm using the flossing approach. Thanks.
 

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You don't need the Simple Green

Use a clean rag and use it as dental floss, going between each cog. No need for the Simple Green. If it's really, really, really dirty you might consider pulling the cogs off and cleaning each one individually. The dental floss method is prob your best bet. I buy big bags of recycled cloth shop towels. You can get them for cheap. Something like $12 for 200. Use them until they are filthy then chuck them in the trash. The problem is if you use Simple Green and hose it off with water is some of the water will remain between the spacers and it will seep out onto the cogs and you will back to square one.

Once you get them clean, use the dental floss method once a week or so. Of course the cleaner you keep your chain, the less apt for your cassette get piled with junk. Chain lube makes a diff.
 

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as said above, no need for simple green.

If you need a little cleaning agent, use glass cleaner ON THE RAG with the floss approach. It will evaporate.

If it's that dirty that the floss approach doesn't do it, you need to take it off to clean it. Then, evaluate what lube you are using.
 
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I use home brew lube, 4:1 mineral spirits/oil, so just a wipedown of the drivetrain with a dry rag does the trick. Flossing the cassette with the dry rag works well. If it's really grungy, I'll put some mineral spirits on the rag and then floss, and it looks like new when I'm done.
 

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Remove the real wheel. Spray some cheap solvent cleaner on a rag. Grab two ends and run the middle between each cog. Takes a couple minutes and it will look great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I'll try just a dry rag and see what that does. My chain is pretty clean. I just started using ProLink and I only plan to lubricate approximately every 300 miles or so. I seldom ever ride in the rain.
 

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corning my own beef
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Malvoe1 said:
What type of oil in the home brew?
some will say, "this kind/weight is best" but any motor oil will suffice.
 

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On a related note, after using a rag and rubbing the chain clean, I use Prolink
Progold, but still I am getting a little gunk in the drivetrain after each ride. I know
you are supposed to let the chain sit for a few hours after oiling and wipe off
the excess. Problem is, I am not sure how much 'excess' and what parts of the
chain it is safe to wipe after oiling.
 

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Proud luddite
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Just a little note about Simple Green....I love the stuff, use it all the time and I think I am addicted to its scent, it smells so good. But ALWAYS rinse off the parts with water that you have used Simple Green on. It has been known to do some pretty serious corrosive damage to bike parts, and never get it on your frame, or else it will eat right through the paint. It's a great cleaner/degreaser but you just have to be careful with it.
 

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Correct procedure?

Hula Hoop said:
On a related note, after using a rag and rubbing the chain clean, I use Prolink Progold, but still I am getting a little gunk in the drivetrain after each ride. I know
you are supposed to let the chain sit for a few hours after oiling and wipe off
the excess. Problem is, I am not sure how much 'excess' and what parts of the
chain it is safe to wipe after oiling.
You're supposed to wipe of the excess immediately, and let the chain sit a few hours before riding so that excess solvent evaporates. The more you apply, the cleaner the chain will get but obviously that means using more lube.

The wipe procedure is to wipe the outside of the chain, holding a rag against the side plates and then against the rollers as you backpedal.
 

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foothillsbass said:
I use home brew lube, 4:1 mineral spirits/oil, so just a wipedown of the drivetrain with a dry rag does the trick. Flossing the cassette with the dry rag works well. If it's really grungy, I'll put some mineral spirits on the rag and then floss, and it looks like new when I'm done.
:thumbsup:
 

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IMO, it is easy to remove the cassette and wipe each cog clean. This way you don't wind up getting the cassette grime on the spokes...etc.
 

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I usually just remove my rear wheel, and then scrub the cassette down with an old toothbrush and some degreaser, then I rinse it off with water and dry. For the chain I use the Parktool chain scrubber, then apply Prolink, wipe, back pedal, then reapply and shift through the cassette several times and wipe the chain again.

Easy peasy. Takes 10-15 minutes.
 
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