Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I were to change out my steel 1" fork for something like an Easton EC90 1" threadless, I would obviously need a new headset and stem. Headset doesn't look like an issue, I can get a King that will do it.

Are all the stems 1 1/8" and I would just use a shim to fit them to a 1" steerer?

My goal is to modernize to the point where I can put on 31.8mm ergo handlebars, but I think the conversion post is really hokey.

Thanks!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,191 Posts
android said:
If I were to change out my steel 1" fork for something like an Easton EC90 1" threadless, I would obviously need a new headset and stem. Headset doesn't look like an issue, I can get a King that will do it.

Are all the stems 1 1/8" and I would just use a shim to fit them to a 1" steerer?

My goal is to modernize to the point where I can put on 31.8mm ergo handlebars, but I think the conversion post is really hokey.

Thanks!
Yer spending an awful lot of money for very little benefit... You'd probably be better off just buying a new bike.

You don't really gain anything with 31.8 bars (other than slightly fatter bars), and what you gain by switching to threadless isn't really worth the effort...

If yer current front end isn't broke, I'd leave it alone. If you decide to do it anyway, keep all the old parts- when you sell that frame, someone is gonna want all the original bits a lot more than they'll want a carbon fork.
 

·
Banned forever.....or not
Joined
·
24,573 Posts
Unless you have a top quality steel frame, you might be better to get a carbon fork with an aluminum steerer (for cost reasons) . Some stems are 1 1/8 only, and some stems are 1 1/8 but come with a 1" aluminum adaptor.
31.8 bars are not any stiffer than 26.0 bars, but as long as you have to buy a new stem, it won't hurt to go 31.8mm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,431 Posts
android said:
If I were to change out my steel 1" fork for something like an Easton EC90 1" threadless, I would obviously need a new headset and stem. Headset doesn't look like an issue, I can get a King that will do it.

Are all the stems 1 1/8" and I would just use a shim to fit them to a 1" steerer?

My goal is to modernize to the point where I can put on 31.8mm ergo handlebars, but I think the conversion post is really hokey.

Thanks!
I believe if you search you can find 1" threadless stems.

Why do you want to go 31.8 (AKA "OS") bars? If the whole exercise is to do that, I can't think of any reason for it. I believe the "stiffness" factor usually touted is just BS.

If you're looking for an ergo or anatomic type bar, many manufacturers make them in 25.8/26.0 clamp size. For instance Deda "215" anatomic bar are that size, and the Easton EA30/50/70 bars are available in that size and are anatomic shape. There are others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mostly looking for anatomic type bars. The choices seem rather limited in 26.0. Also could easily knock off a pound or so. I think my fork is 2+ lbs right now.

The bike is just an heavy, old, steel Spectrum, so maybe I should just buy a new plastic bike.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,191 Posts
android said:
Mostly looking for anatomic type bars. The choices seem rather limited in 26.0. Also could easily knock off a pound or so. I think my fork is 2+ lbs right now.

The bike is just an heavy, old, steel Spectrum, so maybe I should just buy a new plastic bike.
Whoa- are you talking about a Tom Kellogg Spectrum?

If that's the case, For the love of god, leave it alone and sell it to someone who appreciates hand-made steel- what size is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
buck-50 said:
Whoa- are you talking about a Tom Kellogg Spectrum?
You mean the one with the rainbow S logo on the head tube and the back of the seat tube? It does say Tom Kellogg on the left chain stay. Maybe that's the guy that owned it before me...

If that's the case, For the love of god, leave it alone and sell it to someone who appreciates hand-made steel-

what size is it?
My size.

If I get a King headset, I can change the fork out from classic to modern in about 30 minutes and swap back and forth at my whim. It's not like I'm going to toss the steel fork in the dust bin or anything. But we're getting more and more chip and seal, so I'm trying to figure out ways to combat hand numbness and fatigue. Allegedly, carbon forks and carbon anatomic bars help with that.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,191 Posts
Tom Kellogg is the builder.

Pretty highly respected builder.

Replacing that steel fork with a carbon fork would really be a shame, kinda like putting a cheap body kit on a classic ferarri, or a pair of fake boobs on the mona lisa.

Seriously, you've got a bike that could be a real classic. don't mess it up.

Carbon forks and 31.8 handlebars will do nothing to combat yer hand numbness. Trust me on this one. Chances are, you need to raise your handlebars a bit and then that numbness will go away. Numbness=too much pressure on yer hands.
 

·
Number 2 on the course.
Joined
·
4,405 Posts
android said:
You mean the one with the rainbow S logo on the head tube and the back of the seat tube? It does say Tom Kellogg on the left chain stay. Maybe that's the guy that owned it before me...
I like your style. :D

Some 1 1/8" stems come with shims. There are also aftermarket shims available. Thomson requires a proprietary shim - not sure if any others do.

The only reservation I would have would be using a shim on a CF steerer, if that is what you are planning to do. Seems like it should be no problem, but you never know what random restrictions CF manufacturers are going to come up with. I would just double-check with the manufacturer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,038 Posts
My framebuilder told me that most carbon forks have a different spacing than steel forks and that the steering geometry will be changed about a 1/2 degree and the front end will be slightly higher than before.

Why not get a threadless adapter that replaces the quill stem and allows you to use a stem that uses 31.8 bars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,525 Posts
Wow, this thread is a rich study in ways to over-engineer a bike "update" for a wild variety of reasons. The OP seems sincere in his question. If not for the sincerity in the tone, it's almost a trollish thread.

The difference between carbon and steel in a fork will not address hand numbness. Bar height is a much more likely issue, and a threaded stem gives you a zero dollar adjustment to try before you spend $500 of more on this wild "upgrade" path. If your current stem is topped out, get one from rivbike.com and find a body position that works for you.

The reputation of oversized bars is that they are stiffer than standard-sized bars. (I don't know whether that's actually true.) Converting to a carbon fork and over-sized bars for hand numbness seems... counter-productive...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Mark,
Sounds like I should just leave it alone. Maybe I'll get some of that gel that goes under the bar tape. That'll be a lot cheaper and I won't end up distorting my frame geometry or any such thing. The frame is about 10 years old, so I'm just looking at possible changes (dare I say upgrades?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,431 Posts
android said:
Mostly looking for anatomic type bars. The choices seem rather limited in 26.0. Also could easily knock off a pound or so. I think my fork is 2+ lbs right now.

The bike is just an heavy, old, steel Spectrum, so maybe I should just buy a new plastic bike.
There's plenty of anatomic type bars in 26, from the subtly anatomic like the Easton EA70 and the Deda 215 anatomic, to the more pronounced anatomic shape like the Ritchey Biomax II. They are pretty light - check weight weenies. Also, weight weenies generally lists clamp size so if you can research the light ones among 26. For what it's worth, that size bar - and stem - will tend to be a little lighter than equivalent 31.8 bars/stems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,431 Posts
android said:
Thanks Mark,
Sounds like I should just leave it alone. Maybe I'll get some of that gel that goes under the bar tape. That'll be a lot cheaper and I won't end up distorting my frame geometry or any such thing. The frame is about 10 years old, so I'm just looking at possible changes (dare I say upgrades?)
Mark is suggesting raising the bars. That would be a good place to start.

You can also look at your seat position. If your seat is too far forward and/or tilted downward at the nose, it can put too much weight on your hands. Setting the seat back and level tends to get you to sit on your butt with less weight on your hands. That would be something to try too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
PeanutButterBreath said:
I like your style. :D

Some 1 1/8" stems come with shims. There are also aftermarket shims available. Thomson requires a proprietary shim - not sure if any others do.

The only reservation I would have would be using a shim on a CF steerer, if that is what you are planning to do. Seems like it should be no problem, but you never know what random restrictions CF manufacturers are going to come up with. I would just double-check with the manufacturer.
A 1" carbon steer tube is just a stupid idea. Look for a fork with an aluminum steerer.
 

·
Resident Curmudgeon
Joined
·
13,390 Posts
If I were going to get a new stem & bars (I'm not) I'd definitely get a 31.8. IMO, the 26 will go away rather quickly. I recently bought new bars and the 26mm collection was kinda sparse. Stems will likely go the same way. If, in a few tears from now you have a crash & need to replace the bars or stem, you might have a problem finding what you want.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top