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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm about to test out a 90mm -10deg stem. Right now I'm using a 100mm -6deg stem.

What size shim would I need to get the 90mm to the same "height" as the 100mm or would I even notice the difference since the stem is shorter?

Here a pic of my spacers.


Thanks.
 

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As you use a longer or shorter stem (reach).....your old bar height becomes somewhat irrelevent as far as judging feel/fit goes.

I'd probably start from scratch here and put your bar height where ever it feels/fits best instead of keeping at some point that's no longer relevent. Though I suppose using the old height as a starting point would be a good idea.
 

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Jay Strongbow said:
As you use a longer or shorter stem (reach).....your old bar height becomes somewhat irrelevent as far as judging feel/fit goes.

I'd probably start from scratch here and put your bar height where ever it feels/fits best instead of keeping at some point that's no longer relevent. Though I suppose using the old height as a starting point would be a good idea.
Actually, the opposite is true. The 'old' bar height is relevant because the OP wants to maintain it and just change reach. Knowing the starting point is important in the event s/he needs to revert back - or make further changes.
 

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PJ352 said:
Actually, the opposite is true. The 'old' bar height is relevant because the OP wants to maintain it and just change reach. Knowing the starting point is important in the event s/he needs to revert back - or make further changes.
I can't agree with that. As the bars get closer the shoulder angle changes thus the same height will no longer feels the same so is not applicable to a new reach. Presumable he wants the same height because of how it feels and that's lost when changing the reach (shoulder angle).
 

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Jay Strongbow said:
I can't agree with that. As the bars get closer the shoulder angle changes thus the same height will no longer feels the same so is not applicable to a new reach. Presumable he wants the same height because of how it feels and that's lost when changing the reach (shoulder angle).
Not the case IME. If I bring my bars back 1 cm and leave height alone, all that changes is my forearms/ hands move 1 cm back.

But beyond that, what we're talking about here are classic tweaks to fit, and knowing your baseline is always a best practice.

I'm not suggesting that changes to reach can never affect shoulder/ neck/ back, because the can, but it's unlikely with a 1 cm change. So again, knowing one's starting point is important.
 

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Jay Strongbow said:
yes and I can also read a full sentence which you apparently didn't or you would have noticed I addressed that.

Only on the internet can you find people disputing simple geometry. Gotta love it.
I disputed your post (not simple geometry) because I disagreed, and still do despite your dance around the issue.

Lest you forget, this is a forum, so exchanges of thoughts/ ideas are commonplace. IME ego massaging isn't a big part of this picture.

OP: Apologies for the digression...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
lol...discussion is always good.:D

I just wanted a bit more bend in my elbows when I'm on the hoods.

I actually rode with my 100mm stem today...I just changed my body positioning so that my elbows bend a bit more.

I'm going to try the 90mm soon and see if my elbows "naturally" bends.
 

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AvantDale said:
lol...discussion is always good.:D

I just wanted a bit more bend in my elbows when I'm on the hoods.

I actually rode with my 100mm stem today...I just changed my body positioning so that my elbows bend a bit more.

I'm going to try the 90mm soon and see if my elbows "naturally" bends.
With the 90mm stem the hoods (and your hands) will be 1cm closer, so yes, the elbows will naturally bend a bit more, but following wim's recommendations, height remains the same.

It's a minor tweak to fit and it may work out very well for you, or you may decide to try dropping/ raising the bars some, but keep your starting point in mind, just in case...

Re: changing body position to adjust reach: I understand why you did so, but try to avoid it, and definitely don't use saddle fore/ aft adjustments to adjust for reach, because while KOPS is a starting point, where yours is set may be optimal for you. Reach should be adjusted at the stem/ bar contact point, not the saddle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've been riding road for about a year and a half now and I still find that I'm making adjustments.

I just recently went from a Thomson setback to a zero offset EC90. Found that moving the seat forward gave me more power going uphill. Eventually found that the KOPS set me a bit too far back.

I only have two shims, so going back to the starting point won't be too hard.:lol:

Here is my saddle to bar drop. I like the saddle position...just looking for a bit more bend in my elbow.

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
matanza said:
+1 on the nice bike. White frame and red lettering are sharp! How do you like the 3T fork?
Thanks!

I like the fork. I came from the aluminum steerer Ultra fork. The biggest difference I felt was the vibration damping from the full carbon steerer on the 3T.

Steering response "seemed" to be a bit quicker too.


sandman98 said:
here's a link to a stem comparison tool--very useful in predicting reach and height change if you're switching stems.

http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php

--
steve
Thanks for the link. I remember seeing that before, but couldn't recall the site.
 
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