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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I didn't pay enough attention when taking off the cassette. :mad2:In the picture, there is a black spacer. I am not sure if this is the first thing to go on the hub before the triple cog, or the last spacer to go on before the screw to hold it all in. Hoping someone can let me know. Thinking it is the first spacer...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, I am confused. This was on the freehub before I took it off, but put on by LBS when they put on a new cassette. This is on a powertap hub. Do I need the spacer or not?
 

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For a 10sp cassette on an 11sp hub you use the 1.8m thick 11sp spacer. With an Sram 10sp cassette that's the only spacer. With a Shimano 10sp cassette, you also add the 1m 10sp spacer.

The 11sp spacers I have are all splined and chromed. The 1mm 10sp spacers are not splined and are bare aluminium. Yours may look different of course but the widths will be the same.
 

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If the shifting was fine before you took it apart, then you should not have any "spare" parts when you put it back together...yes, you need the spacer.
 

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On some freehub/cassette combinations you can fit an extra 1mm 10sp spacer while leaving enough threads to engage the lock ring. In fact on some hubs I've done that to get the cogs aligned better with my other hubs so there's less adjustment when changing wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
1st off thanks for all the info. 2nd, this cassette is a replacement cassette put on by LBS, so not sure if they added the spacer intentionally or not, which is why I wanted to know if I needed it (not sure if the tech is brilliant or just doing what he thinks is correct).

So here are 2 pics I took with and without spacer. Not sure you can see this. With spacer, the last cog extends a bit above threads, without spacer, it is even. Both allow the lock ring to work just fine. I know the chart says a ten speed sram cassette on 11sp hub should have the spacer. However, I am not sure that this should be above the threads?

Office equipment Gear Black Machine Engineering Bicycle part Bicycle drivetrain part Gear Spoke Machine
 

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So here are 2 pics I took with and without spacer. Not sure you can see this. With spacer, the last cog extends a bit above threads, without spacer, it is even. Both allow the lock ring to work just fine. I know the chart says a ten speed sram cassette on 11sp hub should have the spacer. However, I am not sure that this should be above the threads?
It should be slightly above the threads. The cogs will compress a bit when tightened.
If it's even, when you tighten the lock ring, the ring could bottom out on the hub and never fully tighten the cogs. While you may think it "works just fine" your cogs could be moving around a little bit.

Also, if you take out the spacer, you'll need to re-adjust your derailleur and probably the limits too.
 

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1st off thanks for all the info. 2nd, this cassette is a replacement cassette put on by LBS, so not sure if they added the spacer intentionally or not, which is why I wanted to know if I needed it (not sure if the tech is brilliant or just doing what he thinks is correct).

So here are 2 pics I took with and without spacer. Not sure you can see this. With spacer, the last cog extends a bit above threads, without spacer, it is even. Both allow the lock ring to work just fine. I know the chart says a ten speed sram cassette on 11sp hub should have the spacer. However, I am not sure that this should be above the threads?

How would it tighten if it weren't above the threads? Just do what everyone here and the chart says...SRAM 10 cassette on an 11spd freehub needs a 1.85mm 11spd spacer. Put it on and tighten the lockring. Done.
 
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