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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I've got these fancy carbon wheels, real desgn ultra sonics, and I canr seem to keep the rear wheel true. To true the wheel, I have to remove the tire/tube and rim tape. I true the wheel, then in a few days it is out of true again. Anybody have experience with these wheels and does anybody have an idea on how to keep the spokes from loosening up. Lock-tite? or other..

Thanks
 

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rickm said:
so I've got these fancy carbon wheels, real desgn ultra sonics, and I canr seem to keep the rear wheel true. To true the wheel, I have to remove the tire/tube and rim tape. I true the wheel, then in a few days it is out of true again. Anybody have experience with these wheels and does anybody have an idea on how to keep the spokes from loosening up. Lock-tite? or other..

Thanks
Sorry, but there are a few different reasons why the wheels won't stay true. The first thing to check is the tension and how even it is. If either the tension is low or it is uneven you will not get the wheel to hold true and locktite is a stopgap solution.

-Eric
 

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As the former builder for Real design I have a bit of experience with your wheels. You must tension the drive side to 125kgf or they will not stay true! also if you are a bigger guy (above 175lbs) you will also have constant problems. The nipples that are used on the wheels are Dt prolock which have a thread locking compond already in the threads so adding locktite will not do anything unless you clean the threads and use different nipples.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ligero said:
As the former builder for Real design I have a bit of experience with your wheels. You must tension the drive side to 125kgf or they will not stay true! also if you are a bigger guy (above 175lbs) you will also have constant problems. The nipples that are used on the wheels are Dt prolock which have a thread locking compond already in the threads so adding locktite will not do anything unless you clean the threads and use different nipples.

I do weigh 180-185. So does that mean I should look for another wheelset. I really like these wheels, but if I am going to have true them every week, I am going to get tired of that.

and where do I find a torque wrench that will measure 125kgf?
 

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rickm said:
I do weigh 180-185. So does that mean I should look for another wheelset. I really like these wheels, but if I am going to have true them every week, I am going to get tired of that.

and where do I find a torque wrench that will measure 125kgf?
If you can get them tensioned high enough and get the tension fairly even they should stay true but will not be the stiffest wheels. You do not need a torque wrench, you need a spoke tensiometer to measure spoke tension. Any good shop should have one and should be able to tension them to 125 to 130kgf on the drive side.

Another thing you could do is have the drive side rebuilt with a heavier gauge spoke. That will help out the most of anything you could do for the wheels. If you do decide to replace the drive side spokes the length is 295mm straight pull.
 

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Ligero said:
If you can get them tensioned high enough and get the tension fairly even they should stay true but will not be the stiffest wheels. Another thing you could do is have the drive side rebuilt with a heavier gauge spoke. That will help out the most of anything you could do for the wheels.
I'm curious about this. I thought for wheels to go out of true something needed to "give"... the spokes are settling in to the hubs or the rim, or the nipples are unscrewing... or one of the components is actually exceeding yield. If the nipples are locked, and the wheel has been ridden awhile, then... I guess some part is yielding... which is a very bad thing. Breakage will follow sooner or later.

From your experience with these, where does the yielding occur... spokes, rims, hubs, nipples? Drive side or non?
 

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rruff said:
I'm curious about this. I thought for wheels to go out of true something needed to "give"... the spokes are settling in to the hubs or the rim, or the nipples are unscrewing... or one of the components is actually exceeding yield. If the nipples are locked, and the wheel has been ridden awhile, then... I guess some part is yielding... which is a very bad thing. Breakage will follow sooner or later.

From your experience with these, where does the yielding occur... spokes, rims, hubs, nipples? Drive side or non?
With these specific wheels it is the rim that is flexing and letting the nipples go slack. After repeated times of doing that the very light thread lock in the prolock nipples gives out and the nipples start coming loose. Another thing that was happening is when the wheels were being built they were coating the nipples in oil to help tensioning when being built but it was also canceling out any hold the the prolcok compond had.
 
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