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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I had a flipflop hub (either fixed/free or fixed fixed), how much gear range do I have without having to change the chain length by adding in links? I have horizontal dropouts that are just 35mm's.

I ride a 44/16 and would like to put an 18 tooth cog on the free side. Most people seem to go 16/17 but that doesn't seem like enough of a difference to bother.

Actually a follow-up question would be can I put a Fixed 18 tooth cog on the free side? Are there cogs or lockrings or such that would allow that? Or do I need a hub made as a fixed/fixed?

Thanks
 

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Done with winter.
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Two tooth difference is quite a bit but if when in fixed mode your cog is near the back of the drop outs you might make it work.

You could put a track cog on the freewheel side but you run the risk of it coming loose and unscrewing itself. The safest thing would be to just get a fixed/fixed hub.
 

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NeoRetroGrouch
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Unzip the attached program and run it. All your questions will be answered.

As far as running a fixed without a reverse lock ring, many do it. Just please don't ride near me (or anyone else) so that you only take yourself out.

TF
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TurboTurtle said:
As far as running a fixed without a reverse lock ring, many do it. Just please don't ride near me (or anyone else) so that you only take yourself out.
TF
Thanks. What's in that exe?

Safety's always my main thing. So are there parts that allow the cog to be on the free side safely - what is a reverse lock ring? That's all I'm askin about. I know you can't just screw on a regular cog and ride.
 

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NeoRetroGrouch
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wolfereeno said:
Thanks. What's in that exe?

Safety's always my main thing. So are there parts that allow the cog to be on the free side safely - what is a reverse lock ring? That's all I'm askin about. I know you can't just screw on a regular cog and ride.
You can input your fork end length, chainstay length, chain length and it will give you what gears you can use without changing the chain.

A fixed hub has an inner set of threads that the cog (or SS freewheel) threads onto and a slightly smaller set of reverse threads on the outside for the lock ring. With the reverse threads on the lock ring, if the cog tries to screw off, the lock ring just gets tighter. The non-fixed side of a hub (or an old road freewheel type hub) does not have the reverse threads.

TF
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks very much!

Do you think it's kludgy to use the free side as an alternate (not primary) fixed hub?

I'm having a set of wheels made for me with phil w hubs and have the choice between a fixed/free or fixed/fixed hub. Only until recently I figured the fixed/free combination made more sense and that's what I have originally ordered. But now I'm not so sure; I think I'd probably use a fixed/fixed option more.

If I had the ability to do both safely with the fixed/free, I'd just stick with what I originally ordered. I have a small window of time to change my mind.
 

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wolfereeno said:
Thanks very much!

I think I'd probably use a fixed/fixed option more.
I have a small window of time to change my mind.
FWIW, I ordered my Surly with fixed/free, and have never used the freewheel side. If I had it to do over again, I'd get fixed/fixed without so much as a second thought. Then I'd run a one-tooth-difference cog on each side, which the chain would accommodate and would be a big enough difference for those really long or hilly rides to actually go to the trouble of flipping it.
 

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1st thing is dont both with a loc ring on the other side. Just thread the cog on. If it worries a bit use blue loc tite.

As for the chain, Throw the 18tooth cog on, slide the wheel as far forward in the drop out. Size the chain lenth to that. 35mm is plenty room to accomidate for 2 tooth differance. Tonite I warmed up on a 16, and dropped to a 14 to sprint. Just remember that there is no rules about where in the drop out the wheel can sit. It can sit as far back as the washer bites in.
 

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several teeth on cross check

wolfereeno said:
If I had a flipflop hub (either fixed/free or fixed fixed), how much gear range do I have without having to change the chain length by adding in links? I have horizontal dropouts that are just 35mm's.

I ride a 44/16 and would like to put an 18 tooth cog on the free side. Most people seem to go 16/17 but that doesn't seem like enough of a difference to bother.

Actually a follow-up question would be can I put a Fixed 18 tooth cog on the free side? Are there cogs or lockrings or such that would allow that? Or do I need a hub made as a fixed/fixed?

Thanks
On my cross check I run a 39/18 for off road or cross racing and a 16t for on road or commuting. They are campy style drops, and the 18t is close to the front/open end, I haven't tried a 15t but it would probably fit, the 16t isn't all the way back, but getting close.
 

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Fixed Geezer
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I think it depends on how your bike is set up, but on my Milwaukee Orange One I have no problem running 42/16F and 42/18SS on the flipflop. There is plenty of chain adjustment for either one.

That being said, I don't find it worth the trouble to flip the wheel over very often to the SS side. I guess I would if I was going riding in a place with lots of rolling hills, but where I ride around SF believe it or not there aren't that many hills to deal with. It's usually not worth it to stop and flip the wheel.
 

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hello
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Girl Anachronism said:
My Campy Record hub only has threads on one side. What's the deal with that?
Absolutely nothing wrong with that and I love my Campy hubs. Now on my new Formula hubs, I run 16 & 18, fixed/fixed.
 

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hello
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tamu said:
if anyone is going to attempt to put a cog on a frewheel side.. they do make cogs that fill all the threads..
. but with something this wide do you think it would spin off or run into the frame first?
But on the other hand, if one's bike is equipped with a brake and don't use leg power for sudden stops, a fixed cog without a lockring on the freewheel side or even on the fixed side should hold up. I regularly run wheels without a lockring, but of course rely on my front brake for stopping.
 

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Just Riding Along
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I suggest you get the Fixed/Fixed hub

If you want a freewheel, you can always ride your geared bike.

Cogs I own are 16t, 17t and 18t. They all fit. I have track dropouts but I think most horizontal dropouts would have a large enough range for this 2t difference.

I'm currently riding with the 17t & 18t cogs (and a 46t ring.) The season begins with the 18t cog and as leg strength and fitness grow, I flip (or is it flop?) the hub. This is a lot more convenient than changing the cog. My terrain is too hilly for me to use the 16t cog.

I would never ride without a proper track hub, lockring(s) and brake(s.) It's risky enough out there as it is. Why make it worse?
 

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hello
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KeeponTrekkin said:
I would never ride without a proper track hub, lockring(s) and brake(s.) It's risky enough out there as it is. Why make it worse?
Agreed, but regarding no lockrings...
Back when I didn't have a flip-flop fixed/fixed hub, I used to carry with me an extra cog to use for the easier return ride home after a hard group ride. I would use the Rotafix method (no tools) to remove the cog and spin on the other cog and ride away, no lockring involved. Having a lockring would have required me to carry a tool to remove it. Of course, I relied solely on my brake for stopping so I never worried about my cog spinning loose. I've never ever had a cog spin off on me.
I now have a fixed/fixed hub w/lockrings...:) .....and flipping is so much easier....:)
 
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