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Discussion Starter #1
I've scoured the Internet and found racks that attach via the rear axle skewer, but with a cobbled-up looking top attachment, and I've seen seatpost racks without any "stabilizing" attachment to stop it flopping about.
Are there any racks that have both. Something that will have a seatpost clamp and also use the axle skewer to triangulate??
It seems so obvious... am I missing something ??
While I'm at it, why not a front rack that uses the front skewer, and uses an extended sidepull brake bolt for the top ??? why do most use clamps on the fork ??
(I'm not worried about the extra 30 seconds to unscrew the skewer if I get a flat.)
 

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Shirtcocker
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60,639 Posts
FutureTourer said:
I've scoured the Internet and found racks that attach via the rear axle skewer, but with a cobbled-up looking top attachment, and I've seen seatpost racks without any "stabilizing" attachment to stop it flopping about.
Are there any racks that have both. Something that will have a seatpost clamp and also use the axle skewer to triangulate??
It seems so obvious... am I missing something ??
While I'm at it, why not a front rack that uses the front skewer, and uses an extended sidepull brake bolt for the top ??? why do most use clamps on the fork ??
(I'm not worried about the extra 30 seconds to unscrew the skewer if I get a flat.)
not all bikes are made to use racks--make sure yours can handle it before you do anything. The seatpost ones work OK for light loads.
 

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N. Hollywood, CA
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what's your intended use?

As a FutureTourer, perhaps you're planning overnights with clothing, tent, sleeping bag? Or maybe textbooks, u-lock, cable lock and change of clothes? If you're serious about carrying weight, you might consider a traditional 4-point rear rack with some extra beefy p-clips like those from Tubus (see picture). I'm biased towards simple, bombproof setups, such as traditional racks that don't interfere with any brake or axle/skewer parts...

Please forgive the silly radial laced rear hub - it was changed to 3-cross some time ago!
 

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What'd I do?
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The seatpost racks don't move around much. I did a trip with one loaded around 25 lbs. I didn't have any problems with load shift, but the panniers I had started rubbing the tire, and the center of gravity was really high (Load was entirely above the hub, and only overlapped the tire vertically by about 4 inchest). If I had to do it again . . . I'd do it the same way because of the bikes and equipment at my disposal, but I'd rather have a frame-mounted rack.
 

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mercierfils
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75 Posts
hmmm... for zero dollars...

I have an old folding, spring-topped rack (they still sell them in K-Mart-type places) that I have attached to my vintage Cannondale crit (no bosses) bike. I drilled and tapped the rear dropouts and used a lockwasher on a machine screw, then had something like Isopke's rig but up on the top end above the brake. I used plumbing pipe hanger strip (preperforated galvanized sheet metal) dipped in Plasti-Dip (used for tool handles; had it already) to improve the grip and save my paint. I bent those to suit and secured them with nylon-cored nuts and machine screws. Okay, I had to buy the nuts. It's held some outrageous loads since 1988 and, other than the cheeseball rack itself, looks manufacured.
 

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did something sort of similar to mercierfils. 85 cannondale SR300. Already had threaded dropouts for racks but no seatstay mounts. I got some of that metal stipping about 0.6" wide that comes in a roll of about 25 feet for $4. It has holes about every 1/2". I just bent that around the oval seatstays and works fine. Not the prettiest but functional. If you have round seatstay tubes you can get rubber coated clamps. A rack attached to seatstays will be more stable than if it is attached to seatpost. But yeah you think there would be something available like that. Maybe bc there is such a variety of seatpost diameters.
 
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