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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchase a Pinarello Prince with Campy Super Record 11 on it. In a month or two, I am going to want to pull the cranks to clean things out, lube it up, and put them back on.

That said, can anyone give advice on how to best do this? What specific tools do I need? (i.e. allen wrench, torque wrench, etc.)

Do I need loctite when i put them back on? Any special lubrication advice?

Does anyone know of a video showing how to do this?

I appreciate any and all feedback. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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BB Tools needed for Ultra torque

Any shop that sells Campy tools should have them. Wiggle.com or totalcycling.com on the net.
Campagnolo UT-BB120 tool Bottom Bracket Cup tool

Campagnolo UT-BB110 tool Ultra Torque fixing bolt tool


They say to use purple loc tite on the cups
 

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info...

Normally I would say to read Campy's instructions, but not in this case. Installing new cups is not the same as removing and reinstalling old cups. Many new cups are improperly installed and have have later caused problems due to improper use of loctite, failure to tighten the cups adequately, or failure to verify the proper BB width and squareness of the BB faces to the threads.

I really dislike the idea of using loctite. With new cups that have factory applied thread locker, I just grease the cups and torque them to 35Nm. With old cups, I might wrap the cup threads with several turns of teflon plumber's tape, then grease the threads in the shell and torque to 35Nm. The BB cup tool that was shown will not allow you to measure the torque. You need a tool like the Park BBT-19 that can be used with a torque wrench. Of course, you still need to be sure that the BB width is correct with calipers and the BB shell faces are square to the threads. I check the faces for squareness by screwing the cup in until it contacts a .010 inch feeler gage, then use .008-.012 to check for high or low spots.

You do not need a special 10mm hex wrench. Any standard 10mm hex socket will work with a short extension on it.

Many of the problems encountered with the UT crank come from using loctite without removing the factory applied thread locker. You should never have two materials trying to so the same job. Loctite instructions always say that the threads must be clean, free of foreign material and dry before applying loctite. There is no way that a cup can be hand tightened if the factory thread locker is in place and even without it, there is sometimes enough thread interference to preclude hand tightening.

http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/7225464-Ultra_torque_crankset-02-09.pdf
 

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info...

tom_h said:
I recently used the grease-only method, also.

I am wondering if Campy's original motivation for loctite, may have been because of the "Italian" thread bottom brackets ?

Aren't Italian BBs prone to loosening due to the "precession" effect, even when torqued? Unlike the "British" threaded BB, which uses left- and right-handed threads on opposite sides.
Campy says that the loctite method can be used if you can't get the BB faced. The idea is to avoid misalignment of the bearing cups.

The Italian thread issue willl never be resolved. I am a firm believer that precession forces are not sufficient to loosen a torqued cup, but if the cup were to loosen for some other reason, like out of square shell faces, then precession will continue to unscrew the loose cup. I've owned four Italian frames and never had a problem with them.

If precession forces were as large as some people claim then you would not need to tighten English BB cups very tight becasue they would tighten themselve. In reality, that does not happen.
 

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C-40 said:
... I really dislike the idea of using loctite. With new cups that have factory applied thread locker, I just grease the cups and torque them to 35Nm. ...
I recently used the grease-only method, also.

I am wondering if Campy's original motivation for loctite, may have been because of the "Italian" thread bottom brackets ?

Aren't Italian BBs prone to loosening due to the "precession" effect, even when torqued? Unlike the "British" threaded BB, which uses left- and right-handed threads on opposite sides.
 

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to O.P. --

I would also apply grease to the Hirth joint (where the teeth mesh) and the crank "fixing bolt" threads.

Reason:
reduce risk of any long-term corrosion or seizing, and to lubricate bolt thread for accurate torque reading.

(actually, I preferred to use copper anti-seize compound, but grease would be more typically used in a bike application).
 

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I have a problem with a Campagnolo Chorus Crankset, it came on a 2009 bike I bought and it is extraordinary hard to turn the bolt.

I guess it was glued with maybe Cyanolite or loctite ?

How would you do to remove that glue ?
 

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???

It's hard to turn "the bolt"? Which one would that be? I assume the center fixing bolt, holding the spindle halves together? If loctite is used, it's only effective for one use. After a bolt is removed, it has little value. You can use a wire brush to remove most of it from the bolt, but getting inside the spindle threads is a little more difficult. You need a small round brush like those used for gun cleaning.
 

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sure...

If the cups don't have any other sort of wear, there is no need to replace them. I would never use loctite on the BB cup threads. Grease the threads and torque to 35Nm. If the frame or BB threads are Ti, use anti-sieze and maybe a few turns of teflon tape.
 

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play in the cranks

c-40 (or others for that matter). Have you experienced any play in the UT cranks? I have Centaur with Record cups. I don't recall any play when first installed, but I can feel play now after 4k miles. Just enough to feel in the peddles. Not sure what could be loose... isn't the play controlled by the snap ring? I can't imagine that the wavy washer does anything. Your thoughts?
 

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???

I'm not sure what you're doing in order to feel play at the pedals. There is nothing to be felt while riding the bike.

If you grab the end of the crankarm and try to wiggle it from side to side, there really should be no free-play. If you wiggle a crank arm, you are getting some mixed bag of radial and axial play.

The wave washer holds a constant axial pressure on the bearings of 20-60 pounds and maintains zero play in the axial direction. It keeps the right side bearing pulled against the face of the cup by pushing the spindle to the left. The spring clip merely insures that a side force toward the right cannot move the crankarms toward the right. That would create a large force on the left bearing and unload the right bearing.

The crank is due for bearing maintenace. It should be removed and the bearings cleaned and regreased, along with cleaning and greasing the cups. You can inspect the cups for signs of wear when the crank is removed.
 

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I think I found the issue

I did some searching on the topic and found this has been seen before. Most signs seem to be pointing at an out of spec BB shell width and the tight tolerances the UT requires. I had recently had the BB faced. I think the shop took me below spec. I checked and, sure enough, under the 69.2 limit for my Italian BB. I just need to locate a BB spacer less than 2mm and I'll see if that doesn't resolve the issue. More later. Thanks for your thoughts.
 

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UT crank play removed

I inserted a 1.5mm spacer on the BB shell and the play is gone. I am happy again. I have some more rides to do before I can confirm 100% fix, but I think I'm in good shape. Side note, no one seems to make spacers for Italian BB shells any more. I had to file and English one from 35 to 36mm to clear the threads on the BB cup.
 
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