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Any tips for removing Dura-ace chainrings? The last time I tried it (with an Allen Wrench and the usual Park-tool/shimano smallish chainring tool), the Chainring tool slipped more than once, and I had to get a new set of nuts. I'm hoping to avoid that issue this time around...any good suggestions?

damn rain.
 

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This works for me.

Unless you already got the tool divve recommended, try stabilizing your el cheapo tool handle against the back of the chainring. Because the nut turns with the screw, you can align the nut slots until the nut tool handle rests against the back of the chainring just below the teeth when you insert the tool. If you then jam the nut tool handle against the chainring with your fingers, it's much more stable than holding it out in mid-air and will not tilt its prongs out of the nut slots - # 1 reason for buggering up the nuts.
 

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Make sure you apply the torque only with the hex wrench, the slotted portion just needs to hold the nut stationary.
Excellent point.

As a matter of fact, you can sometimes loosen a chainring bolt burdened with a turning nut without using the nut tool at all by a sudden, powerful and very brief application of torque to the Allen wrench. Don't know why it works, but it does surprisingly often.
 

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This isn't really help for your issue now, but if you do have to replace your bolts/nuts again in the future, Truvativ makes bolts that have a much better design. Instead of a 5mm hex socket on one side and a little slot on the other, the Truvativ bolts take a 5mm hex key on one side and a 6mm on the other.

I've also seen some FSA bolts that have a 5mm (or maybe it's 6mm) hex socket on one side and a T30 hex on the other. The Truvativ design seems better since the tools are more common.

Finally, some FSA chainring bolts are Torx on one side and slotted on the other, which is really not an improvement over the standard bolts/nuts, in my opinion.
 
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