Yes, there's a trick. One of your pedals is reversed treaded, one is not.wookie said:So is there a trick to this or something? I tried removing my pedals last night with no luck, any tips?
Yes. Left (non-drive) side is the reverse-threaded one. Getting enough torque without endangering your fingers can be a problem. Here's my approach: With the bike standing on the ground as if riding (i.e., not hanging or on a work stand), position the crank so that it's fairly low and the installed pedal wrench points toward the rear, angled slightly above horizontal. Put a hand on the top tube and one on the saddle, and lean on the bike hard, to keep it from moving. Then put a foot on the end of the pedal wrench and push down. Increase pressure until it begins to move. Considerably less than full weight will probably move it. If that doesn't do it, your threads are really gunked up, and you might need penetrating oil to loosen them.wookie said:By the way, I am determining left and right as if I was sitting on the bike is this correct?
wookie said:So is there a trick to this or something? I tried removing my pedals last night with no luck, any tips?
This works as long as the handle of your wrench is pointing UP. If it's pointing down, you go the other way.jtolleson said:
The owner of the local bike shop told me to follow the direction of the pedals in reverse that is the way to loosen the pedals. It works. Pedal wrench? I just used a 15mm open end wrench and had no problems on either my mtb or rb. I replaced them with Crank Brothers Candy C's and Quattro's respectively. No wrenches there though, I had to use an allen wrench 8mm if I remember correctly.jtolleson said:
an easier way to remember is that the wrench will be turning the OPPOSITE direction the pedal would be turning naturally to back it off.jtolleson said: