[commuterguy2]

My right (i.e., most frequently used) STI shifter is intermittently malfunctioning. When I try to get a bigger cog, the shifter moves without resistance to the left, but isn't engaging anything and, naturally, nothing happens to the rear derailleur. If I try again, and sort-of angle the shifter to the back and left, it will usually work.

I have the 105 shifters that came with my 2000 model year bike, and I have traveled about 9000 miles in relatively tough conditions. It has been pretty cold recently, so that may be a factor, but I haven't had the opportunity to ride in warm conditions to see if that solves the problem.

What to do? Is it time for new shifters? I have read elsewhere that Shimano STI shifters really can't be rebuilt. Is the 9-speed D/A (which using a bearing instead of a bushing, I am told) worth the premium?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide.

 

[haiku d'etat]

have you replaced cables & housing yet? nm

no message

 

[commuterguy2]

Yes--twice...

no message

but I haven't done so in response to this problem (which has emerged in the last few weeks).

 

[haiku d'etat]

i'd do that first, natch

retension the rear der cable; replace if that doesn't work; replace housing if that doesn't work.

you didn't say if it's indexing (clicking), just that it's not engaging anything. if it's clicking, it's probably a cable problem. if it's not clicking, it's probably the shifter. i'm thinking STI shifters will click regardless of having cables attached.

i had to replace 1999 and 2000 drive-side 105 sti pods, though, both within 6 months of "new". now using 2001 ultegra, 2002 105, and 2003 ultegra, no problems (knock wood).

as to your DA question, no experience here. however, i am equally happy with 105 and ultegra shifting. i think it really comes down to having a fresh chain, cassette in good condition, clean drivetrain, and cables well adjusted. ultegra is all shiny and pretty, though.

HTH.

-J

 

[ahaile]

Might try WD-40

My older 8-speed 105 levers developed a similar but not identical problem. For me, the main lever moved up to a larger cog fine, but the release lever wouldn't click down to a smaller one. It was definitely temperature related: below 45 degrees, it wouldn't shift at all, 45-55, intermitent, and over 55 was fine.

The solution I got from trolling around the net was to spray some WD-40 through the cable hole into the innards of the levers to flush out the old lubricant. Then I worked them about a hundred times. So far, they've been fine for 6 months in temperatures down to 20. You can see the cable hole by squeezing the brake lever. Be sure to put a bunch of newspapers under your bike or do it outside as the WD-40 will come streaming out the bottom of the lever.

Here's one page describing the process (they recommend "Powerlube", which I couldn't find). Scroll down to the bottom:
http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/noisystilevers.htm

 

[Thorman]

I also have a 2000 model 105 and started to develop a shifting problem. My question is-can you hold the brake lever with one hand and push the inner shift lever to get it to move into a smaller gear?

If this is the case you're in the same predicament as I am. You need to get a special tool and tighten a nut inside the shifter.

Here's a link to an exploded view on Shimano's site.

http://bike.shimano.com/product_images/ST/si_images/ST_5500-CA_SI.pdf

 

[commuterguy2]

thanks and another question

Thanks for the tip. Do you have to continually re-apply WD-40? I think Uncle Al and others frequently say that it is a solvent, not a lubricant, and that you have to replace lubricant that is flushes away.

 

[commuterguy2]

No, so far I haven't had trouble getting smaller cogs. It's been an intermittent inability to get a bigger cog. The really unique thing is that when this problem is occuring, the shifter is all but flapping in the breeze--there is basically no resistance when I move it to the left. When this happens, if I try again, and kind of squeeze it back and to the left simultaneously, it will generally work.

 

[ahaile]

Thanks for the tip. Do you have to continually re-apply WD-40? I think Uncle Al and others frequently say that it is a solvent, not a lubricant, and that you have to replace lubricant that is flushes away.

I didn't follow the WD-40 with a lubricant, but probably should have. That's why the one site recommended PowerLube, as it's supposedly both a solvent and a lubricant. When I was researching this on the net, I remember at least one person saying that they had had to respray every few months until they started lubing also, and since then it hadn't needed reapplication.

If you go to groups.google.com and search on "105 sti wd-40" you'll see a bunch of old posts discussing this. That's where I got the tip.

 

[wraith]

I didn't follow the WD-40 with a lubricant, but probably should have. That's why the one site recommended PowerLube, as it's supposedly both a solvent and a lubricant. When I was researching this on the net, I remember at least one person saying that they had had to respray every few months until they started lubing also, and since then it hadn't needed reapplication.

If you go to groups.google.com and search on "105 sti wd-40" you'll see a bunch of old posts discussing this. That's where I got the tip.

FYI, WD-40 is both a lube and a solvent, but it a very light weight lube. It wears quite fast.