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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't been able to find out much information on this except that MOst (or M.O.s.t) is probably Pinarello's "house" brand for components.

I need to service the rear hub. It's begun to spin not so smoothly. I believe they might be rebranded Campagnolo as some information I could find indicates.

Before I take a mallet to the axle and wail away. I figured I would check here first.

There is a nut, axle extension on the left side that comes off and a sleeve below that before the hub body. The "nut" side of the axle on the freehub body side does not appear to screw off. I don't recall place for a hex wrench on the left side. If I had to guess, the axle is removed by tapping on the left side to loosen it and then pulling it and the free hub body. Looks very much like this. Text Line Font Parallel Circle

Any advice in servicing the hub?
 

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It doesn't look much different than an asian-sourced cartridge bearing hub to me - except that the cassette carrier seems to run on bushings, unless those things are roller bearings. Anyway, the asian-sourced cartridge bearing hubs that I possess or have worked on just tap apart. Here's one that I have -

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So the bearings are "gritty". I'm going to have to replace them I think. I'm going to have to try to pull the top-seals on the bearings and clean them and re-lube/pack them.

I am considering replacing the bearings but I don't have a punch or bearing press.
I'm considering getting a bearing press and set of drifts. Any recommendation them?

Edit: I forgot to ask, anyone know how to measure the bearings to find out which ones I will need? And a good source of bearings?
 

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I've removed the bearings, flipped out the seals, flushed (with WD-40) and re-packed them with good results in the past. Of course, this depends on whether yours have physical damage. They're only like $5-10 each anyway.

I just use a hammer, 7" drift punch and a (correct sized) socket for re-installing the bearings. I would have no use for a bearing press for these hubs as they're so easy to service with basic hand tools. I can do the whole rear hub in less than 5 minutes. I have a .txt file on (asian cartridge bearing) hub overhaul if anyone wants it. I wrote it for one of the hub marketers.

The bearing seals usually have the brg number cast into the seal. Brandon @ BHS.com might have them or I've ordered them through local auto parts stores before.

There are some big online bearing suppliers but I don't have a link.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Mike. I have 3 of the 4 bearings serviced. I didn't get to the inside one on the freehub. The underside of the freehub won't allow me to get the cover off and the other side of the bearing isn't accessible unless I pull the outer one. I'm afraid I'm going to have to take it to the shop to pull the bearings at this point. I tried tapping it out with a socket but it wouldn't budge. And I didn't want to wail away on it just in case.

Since I liberally sprayed the top one with degreaser, I don't feel confident that it didn't penetrate and break down the little grease left inside that bearing.
 

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Thanks Mike. I have 3 of the 4 bearings serviced. I didn't get to the inside one on the freehub. The underside of the freehub won't allow me to get the cover off and the other side of the bearing isn't accessible unless I pull the outer one. I'm afraid I'm going to have to take it to the shop to pull the bearings at this point. I tried tapping it out with a socket but it wouldn't budge. And I didn't want to wail away on it just in case.

Since I liberally sprayed the top one with degreaser, I don't feel confident that it didn't penetrate and break down the little grease left inside that bearing.
You tap them IN with sockets and OUT with a drift punch. But then I can't see your freehub unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Mike the freehub body in the video below looks exactly like mine. IT's at the 2:00 mark.
The bearing that I am calling the outer is the one by the cassette lockring threads. The inner is the one that is most inboard when the wheel is assembled. The 2 bearings have a sleeve between them. You can see the inboard bearing cannot be removed to the inside as the freehub body is blocking it.

Edit: I may have missed a circlip holding in the outer bearing race. I'll have to double check but I didn't notice one before or feel it when cleaning the freehub.

Edit2: I didn't find one on closer inspection. However I may be completely missing it. But the video at 2:08 ish doesn't show one that I can see either.
 

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Mike the freehub body in the video below looks exactly like mine. IT's at the 2:00 mark.
The bearing that I am calling the outer is the one by the cassette lockring threads. The inner is the one that is most inboard when the wheel is assembled. The 2 bearings have a sleeve between them. You can see the inboard bearing cannot be removed to the inside as the freehub body is blocking it.
Edit: I may have missed a circlip holding in the outer bearing race. I'll have to double check but I didn't notice one before or feel it when cleaning the freehub.
Edit2: I didn't find one on closer inspection. However I may be completely missing it. But the video at 2:08 ish doesn't show one that I can see either.
I don't doubt for a second that this isn't a Taiwan/China hub and most of them come apart very similar to each other.

Your exploded graphics shows two circlips in the FH body even though I don't see them in very close scrutiny of the vid. I see that it looks like the inner (pawl side) bearing unit doesn't come out to the pawl side like all the other Taiwan hubs I've worked on. Those two brg units (and their spacer tube) seem that that will come out via the non-pawl side.

I made myself a bearing box to give a known surface on which to place the hub and carrier when tapping. Plus - the brgs drop through the hole.

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