[bannind]

I apologize if this has been answered elsewhere, but I am unsure how to properly describe the problem.

I have a Scott Speedster S30 with Shimano 105 shifters. At least that is what I think I have, the bike was a gift and my use of the bike can best be described as comical.

The front shifter will no longer shift. It feels like something is broke or no longer catching to move the cable. The brake still works just fine. When I use the squeeze the brake and look at the inner workings, I can see the good side moving when I hit the triggers. The other side will not move at all. I can move the cable by hand to the front dérailleur, so it isn't stuck.

My questions are, is this a common occurrence? If so what is the fix? something I can do myself or best take it too a bike shop?

Thanks in advance, I have included photos of the good (bottom picture) and the bad (upper picture) shifters.

thanks,
dan

 

[CleavesF]

Get your screwdriver out and overhaul and replace the cable.

Remember, if you don't have the balls to do it, take it in the shop.

 

[wim]

What I've been told is that the 105 brake shifter which shifted both doubles and triples had issues with breaking detents / pawls. The warranty replacements are either double 105 brake shifters or triple 105 brake shifters. But those crank-specific 105 brake shifters are not on the market yet. At any rate, broken 105 brake shifters is a known problem, so I would insist on a warranty replacement.

 

[PJ352]

wim's advice is correct, but IME the shifter can sometimes be freed. In essence, you've overshifted onto a nonexistent chainring. To attempt to free it, you'll have to press the inner lever in (towards the tire) exerting considerable force - more than you'd normally apply. If you're unsuccessful you can still warranty it, but the method described has worked for me on several occasions.

 

[frdfandc]

If it doesn't release by pressing the inner lever with normal force, DO NOT FORCE IT. It will definitely break. Back out the outer limit screw and add slack via the down tube barrel adjuster, THEN press the inner lever.

If that works, then just make your adjustments again and enjoy your rides. If it does not work and the shifter will not release, then the shifter is broken.

Your LBS will be able to replace the shifter. Whether or not they will have one, is hard to say.

As wim said, the new crank specific shifters are not on the market yet, BUT they are avail from Shimano for warranty purposes, in which your LBS can order one directly from Shimano for warranty replacement.

In the past 8 months, I've had to have 7 105 shifters replaced under warranty for this exact issue. I've had zero problems having Shimano warranty new shifters for me.

And this issue also falls into the Tiagra shifters too.

 

[PJ352]

If it doesn't release by pressing the inner lever with normal force, DO NOT FORCE IT. It will definitely break. Back out the outer limit screw and add slack via the down tube barrel adjuster, THEN press the inner lever.
If that works, then just make your adjustments again and enjoy your rides. If it does not work and the shifter will not release, then the shifter is broken.

Your LBS will be able to replace the shifter. Whether or not they will have one, is hard to say.

As wim said, the new crank specific shifters are not on the market yet, BUT they are avail from Shimano for warranty purposes, in which your LBS can order one directly from Shimano for warranty replacement.

In the past 8 months, I've had to have 7 105 shifters replaced under warranty for this exact issue. I've had zero problems having Shimano warranty new shifters for me.

And this issue also falls into the Tiagra shifters too.

I disagree. It's already 'broken' and the OP has the option to warranty it. Beyond that, adding slack to the cable defeats the purpose of using that tension to free the shifter. Your method almost guarantees it'll remain locked in position. Again, the method described has worked for me on several occasions.

 

[frdfandc]

Well, you can disagree, but excessive tension causes excessive pressure on the inner release pawl. Forcing the shifter to release is just asking for a broken shifter.

But as you say its already "broken" If its broken, not much he can do to make the shifter work properly because the pawl is broken.

If he just pushes on the release lever too hard, it will break. I'll put money on it. Like I mentioned before, I've had to replace 7 shifters in the last 8 months due to this problem. But I didn't mention the shifters I have fixed/prevented from breaking.


So back to the OP. Take into your LBS and state that your front shifter isn't holding the shift. They should warranty a new shifter via Shimano without question.

 

[Opus51569]

Well, you can disagree, but excessive tension causes excessive pressure on the inner release pawl. Forcing the shifter to release is just asking for a broken shifter.

But as you say its already "broken" If its broken, not much he can do to make the shifter work properly because the pawl is broken.

If he just pushes on the release lever too hard, it will break. I'll put money on it. Like I mentioned before, I've had to replace 7 shifters in the last 8 months due to this problem. But I didn't mention the shifters I have fixed/prevented from breaking.


So back to the OP. Take into your LBS and state that your front shifter isn't holding the shift. They should warranty a new shifter via Shimano without question.

Maybe this is just a syntax thing, but when you say you've had to replace 7 shifter in the last 8 months, do you mean on your own bike(s)? Or do you work in a bike shop and have worked on that many shifters on other peoples' bikes? I ask because, if those are all yours, no offense, but I'm guessing there's something wrong with the way you're shifting...

 

[PJ352]

Well, you can disagree, but excessive tension causes excessive pressure on the inner release pawl. Forcing the shifter to release is just asking for a broken shifter.

But as you say its already "broken" If its broken, not much he can do to make the shifter work properly because the pawl is broken.

If he just pushes on the release lever too hard, it will break. I'll put money on it. Like I mentioned before, I've had to replace 7 shifters in the last 8 months due to this problem. But I didn't mention the shifters I have fixed/prevented from breaking.


So back to the OP. Take into your LBS and state that your front shifter isn't holding the shift. They should warranty a new shifter via Shimano without question.

I'm not sure I'd call the tension excessive, I'd call it taut, and that tension is used to free the shifter. Of course, if too much pressure is applied the shifter will break (if it isn't already), but what I said was 'exerting considerable force - more than you'd normally apply' - and that's about the best way I can describe it. And I doubt the pawl is broken, more likely it's locked.

For the record, I don't doubt your experiences. I've heard many reports of problems with these shifters, but I also have accurately relayed my experiences. IMO the best course of action would be for the OP to work with his LBS on a replacement, but at least try my method if for no other reason than to (possibly) have a normally operating drivetrain until the replacement arrives.

 

[frdfandc]

Opus,

I work in a bike shop. My stuff works fine. Usually when I see the shifters break, is after a new bike purchase, but before the customer can come back in for adjustments needed after the first few rides. When the throw is made for the shift up to the big ring is made, it doesn't shift right into gear, so the rider makes the shift again, forcing the shifter to go into the 3rd gear selection, like if the bike is equipped with a triple.

PJ, if the OP takes off the crash plate, removes the black nut lock, removes the nut and pulls the black housing off, he will find the pawl is broken. The pawl breaks around the pivot point.

I have two at work. I'll take a picture for reference if you'd like. And its not a hassle to do so. Only 30 seconds of work.

 

[PJ352]

Opus,

I work in a bike shop. My stuff works fine. Usually when I see the shifters break, is after a new bike purchase, but before the customer can come back in for adjustments needed after the first few rides. When the throw is made for the shift up to the big ring is made, it doesn't shift right into gear, so the rider makes the shift again, forcing the shifter to go into the 3rd gear selection, like if the bike is equipped with a triple.

Exactly.

PJ, if the OP takes off the crash plate, removes the black nut lock, removes the nut and pulls the black housing off, he will find the pawl is broken. The pawl breaks around the pivot point.

I have two at work. I'll take a picture for reference if you'd like. And its not a hassle to do so. Only 30 seconds of work.

No need for pics, as mentioned I believe what you offer, but I leave open the possibility that the pawl isn't broken, because my shifter hs exhibited the same symptoms and has been freed several times (till I learned not to do what you described above).

 

[Squidward]

Replace it. I tried to fix one a few months ago and it just broke again on the test ride and I was taking it easy on the shifter trying not to break it.

 

[Opus51569]

Opus,

I work in a bike shop. My stuff works fine. Usually when I see the shifters break, is after a new bike purchase, but before the customer can come back in for adjustments needed after the first few rides. When the throw is made for the shift up to the big ring is made, it doesn't shift right into gear, so the rider makes the shift again, forcing the shifter to go into the 3rd gear selection, like if the bike is equipped with a triple.

PJ, if the OP takes off the crash plate, removes the black nut lock, removes the nut and pulls the black housing off, he will find the pawl is broken. The pawl breaks around the pivot point.

I have two at work. I'll take a picture for reference if you'd like. And its not a hassle to do so. Only 30 seconds of work.

Okay. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[7he ]-[0rr0r]

I broke the same part you had in my 105 old ass 9 speed. first day of spring Couldn't help myself and went out for a ride and ice formed on my shifter line kapow after next shift. Mine was a bit of a hassle to get back together but the metal housing that held the cable seemed to be lead and though the cable had torn right through I just pulled the cable back through and bent the housing back into shape with my finger nails.
Lead! in a bike part!

 

[THATmanMANNY]

Ah crap! My doub/triple front shifter just broke. I'm pretty confident in my bike mech skills and I didn't mess up setting the limit screws for the shifter to "overstretch". I used it for 5 minutes. I didn't even take it out on the road. It was on the trainer and I was making fit adjustments for myself. I read the warranty shifters are taking forever to come in. SUCKS! :mad2: These are very unreliable!

 

[PJ352]

Ah crap! My doub/triple front shifter just broke. I'm pretty confident in my bike mech skills and I didn't mess up setting the limit screws for the shifter to "overstretch". I used it for 5 minutes. I didn't even take it out on the road. It was on the trainer and I was making fit adjustments for myself. I read the warranty shifters are taking forever to come in. SUCKS! :mad2: These are very unreliable!

Try to free it. You've got nothing to lose at this point.

 

[frdfandc]

Replacement shifters are coming in fairly quickly now. I just ordered 3 last Friday. They showed up today.

BTW, I've found out from experience that using the front shifter on a trainer can break the 2/3x shifters. I broke 3 in one hour at work one day trying to dial in the FD.

I know you were making fit adjustments so its apples/oranges.

But what you need to do is loose the FD cable retention bolt THEN click the front shifter to shift down to the little chain rings. If the shifter is not broken, releasing the cable tension will allow the shifter to shift. If the shifter is broken, then you need to visit your LBS for a warranty replacement.

 

[PJ352]

Replacement shifters are coming in fairly quickly now. I just ordered 3 last Friday. They showed up today.

BTW, I've found out from experience that using the front shifter on a trainer can break the 2/3x shifters. I broke 3 in one hour at work one day trying to dial in the FD.
I know you were making fit adjustments so its apples/oranges.

But what you need to do is loose the FD cable retention bolt THEN click the front shifter to shift down to the little chain rings. If the shifter is not broken, releasing the cable tension will allow the shifter to shift. If the shifter is broken, then you need to visit your LBS for a warranty replacement.

THATmanMANNY: If you haven't done so already, read my posts above on how to clear the jam. Despite several jams (and each cleared), after 16 months my shifter still functions fine. I'm not guaranteeing my method works every time, and a broken shifter won't be 'fixed', but IMO it's worth a try before submitting a warranty claim.

 

[frdfandc]

Yeah, that many. Unfortunately it was when this issue first started showing up and I didn't know what was causing it.

Yeah, I know ways around it now and how to try and prevent the shifters from breaking, but sometimes it happens.

Live and learn.:mad2:

 

[PJ352]

Yeah, that many. Unfortunately it was when this issue first started showing up and I didn't know what was causing it.

Yeah, I know ways around it now and how to try and prevent the shifters from breaking, but sometimes it happens.

Live and learn.:mad2:

Actually, I was confused by your statement that FD shifters broke on a trainer. Why would shifting on a trainer be any different than on the road, or maybe I'm just reading your post wrong.