[owens]

How many of you run only a single front ring? I don't usually use it and I am thinking of changing out only to a big ring. What do others think and what size front ring do you run if you do change out?


thanks,

 

[moralleper]

I only use one ring and do not really miss the second. I am currently running a 39 and it works well except on the downhill on the road.

 

[macsi]

Single 42 here as well on the training bike, 11-25 or 12-27 at the back depending on what kind of riding I do.

 

[OnTheRivet]

After racing a few years on a double I went single ring last year 42 with a 12-27. Honestly don't know why more people don't run single ring. I hated shifting between big and small at inopportune moments with a double. When I'm redlining, not having to worry about front shifting is nice.

 

[owens]

I was thinking of a larger front ring. I am suprised that you run that small of a large ring. Right now I run a 48 and normally stay in it then entire race.

What are others running if they have both rings?

thanks

 

[pretender]

42 x 12-27

Here's what Adam Myerson says:
http://www.cycle-smart.com/articles/find.php?search=33
If you decide to go with a single ring, the first step is to figure out what size chainring to use. You could go as small as a 30 or 40, but a 42 tends to be the most versatile. A 42 X 25 or 27 will get you over most hills in 'cross race, and 42 X 12 or 11 will handle any sprint. A 42 is also good because between two equal gear inches, it's easier to accelerate the one with the smaller front chainring. The largest you should go is a 44. Richard Groenendaal uses a 45, so a 44 is likely enough for us mortals.

 

[pretender]

42 x 12-27

Here's what Adam Myerson says [tho I think the bit about accelerating a smaller chainring is B.S.]:
http://www.cycle-smart.com/articles/find.php?search=33
If you decide to go with a single ring, the first step is to figure out what size chainring to use. You could go as small as a 30 or 40, but a 42 tends to be the most versatile. A 42 X 25 or 27 will get you over most hills in 'cross race, and 42 X 12 or 11 will handle any sprint. A 42 is also good because between two equal gear inches, it's easier to accelerate the one with the smaller front chainring. The largest you should go is a 44. Richard Groenendaal uses a 45, so a 44 is likely enough for us mortals.

 

[onrhodes]

42 & 12-27, you'll never really need more than that. Just make sure you get a good chain watcher system.

 

[jroden]

I used a 42 for a season, I like it. You need something to watch the chain on both the inside and outside or it will pop off. I went back to a double as I like to piddle around on trails sometimes for fun.

 

[BikeFixer]

I used to run a 42 only but two of the fastest pro guys in this area suggested going to 39 so obviously I am not going to question that. I haven't done a race on it but it feels like it will be plenty fast. I am running an 11-25 in the back

 

[Crack Monkey]

40x18 single-speed on my back-up bike.

Standard 2x10 on my main bike.

 

[Corndog]

39T front and 11-25 or 12-27 (most of the time). tried a 42T and it was OK, but I like the 39T better. 39T is a bonus since most cranks already have one on there.

If you want to be different get a 40T

 

[owens]

I will play around between 38 - 42 and see what I like.

I need an inside and outside chain guard and a chain watcher?

 

[Corndog]

I use an outside guard and a jump stop on the inside. The new Pauls guard is pretty pimp though.

 

[OnTheRivet]

Running a Salsa guard and a NGear Jumpstop without a single issue

 

[omesh]

single-ring-veterans I have a few questions!

Ive been doing cx practices on my 'around-town' bike which was geared with 42x18 (using an Eno ecc. rear hub).

For me, this is way too large of an off-road SS gear, so for my first year of 'cross racing I'm looking to migrate to a 1x9 setup. Since I already have a 42 chain-ring set up, I think I'll stick with that up-front [its on an older Truvativ 108/68 BB - I believe).

My question is, what rear gearing should i go with? 12-27 is what I was initially thinking? Also, what rear derailler do I need to make that work to handle the chain and have relatively-decent shifting? Do i need a long-cage, short-cage? Clearly, I'm a parts-newb. :aureola:

Currently I have the cane-creek brake levers on there, but now I would need to figure out what to do for the rear shifting. Even though I don't want to, should I just end up shelling out the cash for an Ultegra 9spd shifter (i have drop bars)? I figure I'd keep the cane-creek front lever as is.

I will probably add a bbg bashguard.

I appreciate any help! :thumbsup:

-omesh

PS - crap. I guess I need a whole new rear wheel too (shim 9spd compatible).

 

[Corndog]

12-27 is what I would use with the 42T.

Your could use a barend shifter, short cage der will be ideal.

I bet you can find a used 9 speed 105 or Ultegra shifter/brake lever for cheap if you look around.

 

[omesh]

12-27 is what I would use with the 42T.

Your could use a barend shifter, short cage der will be ideal.

I bet you can find a used 9 speed 105 or Ultegra shifter/brake lever for cheap if you look around.

Thanks! Is there a difference between a traditional 105/ultegra rear der. vs a mtn short-cage rear der. ?

 

[pretender]

@omesh

There's already lots of info on 1x9 and 1x10 gearing in this thread.

I'm currently using a short-cage derailleur with 42 x 12-27, it's a close fit but works. Derailleurs come with (conservative) recommendations for how big a cassette you can use.

I raced a couple seasons with a bar-end shifter + Paul thumbie. I actually liked the setup, much preferred it to having it on the bar-end. I was also using sissy levers at the time, ended up spending a fair amount of time on the bartops and thought it worked quite well.

 

[umarth]

38t, 12-27 with a bar end, which sometimes causes on the fly shifting mishits. I'd roll SS, but some of the singletrack rides can have some severe and long uphills.