Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· (not a real racer)
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How would a wheel with 130mm hub spacing work in a bike frame that has 120mm spaced wheels now? If the frame is aluminium are there any safety issues with stretching the forks and frame an additional 10mm to accommodate the new wheels?

thanks
 

· Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Track frames are currently 120mm, old 5 speed hubed frames are 120mm, but a Trek 1400 is almost certainly 126mm (common for older 6 and 7 speed)

You should be able to squeeze a 130mm hub in there without any "cold setting"
 

· Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Yep, that would be the answer from his lawyer

I've seen plenty of older 126mm frames use 130mm spaced hubs...including aluminum. But it is at your own risk (in 8 years of being a bicycle mechanic I never once saw an aluminum frame fail from this).

Its 4mm...that's less than the space "mm" occupies on your screen
 

· (not a real racer)
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think I'm gonna lace up a pair of 126mm hubs or something. It's for the wife's bike so I don't really don't want any safety issues with it. Yeah I know the odds are slim to none but at least I get to brush up on my spoke lacing now.

Now where can I get 126mm 9speed hubs at?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,776 Posts
He's being cautious

robbyracer said:
Ok just heard back from John @ Neuvation.

No dice.... Stretching out an alloy frame = dangerous. I guess even if it's a couple mm.

Bummer.
He's taking legal advice. Actually "stretching" an aluminum frame, in the sense of bending the tubes so they STAY at the new setting, is not advisable. That's what they call "cold setting," and it's okay with steel, but aluminum doesn't like it.

But what Dave and hayduke were talking about is not cold setting. They're suggesting you just pull the wheel in there, forcing the stays apart just the extra 2mm you need on each side, and no more. The frame won't "cold set" if you do that -- when you remove the wheel it will spring back. This makes wheel removal and installation a bit of a pain every time, but it's not that bad. And it does no harm to the metal.

So if you really want the wheels . . . .

The other question I'd ask is whether those wheels will allow you to remove 2mm of spacers from each side of the axle. If you could do that, you could make it work without springing the frame. You'd possibly have to cut off a bit from the axle ends to make the QR work, so that's a bit more trouble.

Nothing's ever as simple as it seems, is it?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Existing hub or Phil Wood

robbyracer said:
Now where can I get 126mm 9speed hubs at?
Well that would be the real question wouldn't it?

Phil Wood makes F/W versions, but 9 speed freewheels...hmmm

How is the existing hub? If the cups and cones are fine, rebuild it (it may be old enough to have replaceable cups and the cones are easily replaced) with new bearings and grease and re-lace the hub with new spokes, nipples, and a new rim. But again, not nine speed.

There really isn't room for 9 speeds in a 126 hub, that's why road frames went to 130mm (actually for 8 speeds originally).

:thumbsup:
 

· (not a real racer)
Joined
·
484 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
JCavilia said:
The other question I'd ask is whether those wheels will allow you to remove 2mm of spacers from each side of the axle. If you could do that, you could make it work without springing the frame. You'd possibly have to cut off a bit from the axle ends to make the QR work, so that's a bit more trouble.
Hmm... I wonder if I could just file off 2mm on each side of the hub. :idea: Maybe not though as this is all a stop gap solution. It's the wife's bike and she will be getting a new frameset later on this year.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14,776 Posts
MIght be easy

robbyracer said:
Hmm... I wonder if I could just file off 2mm on each side of the hub. :idea: Maybe not though as this is all a stop gap solution. It's the wife's bike and she will be getting a new frameset later on this year.
Take out the spacers, first. That's easy. You might not have to do anything to the axle, depending on dropout thickness and how it fits. If you do have to shorten the axle a little, a file might be practical, if it's not too much.

Personally, I'd just pull it in. It will probably work with no modification.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top