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Noises out

Ron58 said:
So inspecting the BB lockring (not sure I have the right technical word for that part!) but you know that is the lockring found on the opposite side to the chain rings..anyway ,visiually I could perceived a very slight uneveness contact between the ring and the BB itself.So I checked with a thickness gauge and had to concluded that only a cery small section of the BB is actually in contact with the ring itself..maybe only 10 percent of it all and right at the opposite I could slip a .004 inch filler gauge( maybe not at the full depthness though) I guess this is no good at all and maybe my BB needed a machining right at the beginning but the local bike shop not being a whole lot of experimented nest just ignored telling me.I don't own the wrench for thightening these and what I wonder is could it be the lockring just got loose and is now showing such uneaveness and 100% contact could just be redone from just retorquing?

If not this the source of my squeaking what else could I look for down there?
It does sound like you need to have the frame faced - this is where a special tool is used to make sure that the outer faces of the BB shell are perfectly parallel to each other and to the frame. The lock ring should be in full contact with the frame all the way around, especially since it is quite thin and should deform at least a little to make that contact. It may just be loose. Owning the tools to work on your own bike is a good idea, so this might be the place to start.

Otherwise, it is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from the BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, and torque it to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), crank bolts (grease threads and washers), the chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms), the pedals (grease the threads, get some wax etc. on the cleats, grease the bolts into your shoes, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible), the chain (clean and lube), shoes/cleats (loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals), your seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post bolts, saddle rails), your bars and stem (grease the stem, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem, steerer tube spacers if threadless), replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble), the nuts on threaded Presta valve stems (throw the nut away), reed switches in computer pickups, the front derailleur cable hitting the crank, and your wheels (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross, grease/tighten QRs, tighten cassette lock ring, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim). Needless to say, you want to try these things in what seems like the most likely place the noise is coming from, but there are plenty of stories about "I was sure the noise was in the handlebars but it went away when I tightened up the spokes in the rear wheel," so keep trying different things until you have success.
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