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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided to give waxing a try on a couple of bikes this summer. I have already 'processed' a couple of bikes with Molten Speed Wax in a small slow cooker. The chains and rings/cogs were completely degreased, then the chain spent enough time in the cooker for it to get up to the same temp as the wax.

I've had a couple of rides on this now, and must say, i'm really liking the clean and quietness.

This process of course is a bit of a hassle, although I don't hate it (yet). I just don't want to get to some point where I need to wax a chain and have to decide between waxing and riding it dry.

I picked up a bottle of squirt based on some comments I've seen here on the forum.

My question(s) regarding squirt.

1. Can it be used as a sort of 'touch up' between paraffin wax baths? Any compatibility concerns?

2. What is the shelf life of the stuff? Does it thicken over time? Mine is about the consistency of white glue. Can (or should) it be diluted if it thickens? (see question 3)

3. How heavy do you put this stuff on? It seems a bit goopy to me, and tends to sit ON the chain, or settle into the slots, but I can't see how it's getting any penetration? I gave the chain a slow spin while it was still wet, but I could see where this could get really messy. It did cover the rollers, and seemed to go to the right places on the cogs and chain rings. I could see where a heavy application, especially if it got on the outside of the plates of the chain, might cause shifting issues (assuming it affects the way the chain interacts with the shift ramps)?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I've been using this stuff for several years. Really like it. Can't answer your questions regarding compatibility with parafin wax, but I put one drop on each roller and let it soak in. No spinning the cranks or anything like that. No steady stream while turning cranks either. I apply about once a week, and run chain through a rag before subsequent applications. I also completely clean my chain in a parts washer twice a month just cause I like really clean chains. I think you are probably using way too much. Any excess will turn black and flake off after a few rides. Shelf life is a very long time as far as I can tell. I bought six bottles in 2011 when it was really hard to find, and am on my last bottle right now. No change in consistency. I think it is great lube. Quiet, clean, effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank you sir!

I guess I thought that spinning the chain (slowly, to prevent it from flying around the room) would help the wax penetrate down into the pins better.

This is about how I applied it.

 

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1. Yes. In fact companies such as Ceramic Speed and Friction Facts give you a bottle of squirt to use after their applied hot wax coating wears off of their world's fastest chains, the UFO chains.

2. No shelf life really. This stuff is slack wax which is the precursor to parrifin. It's unrefined parafin in it's natural state. It's an oil base. It'll last decades if kept in a bottle with the cap on most likely. Consistency should be that of heavy cream.

3. One small drop on the top of each roller. That's it. Nothing on the plates, just on the rollers and only one small drop on each. The bottle should make it very easy to do this. Try not to get any in between the rollers or on the plates as it'll just be waste. Do not try to rub it in after doing the drops, you'll just be rubbing it on to the plates and in between the rollers. Keep it simple. A small drop on top of the roller and slowly move on. Once you get back to the start leave it alone. No spinning of cranks or anything.


As you're probably finding out, chains that are waxed produce no grease at all. Zero greasy residue. The black is extra wax that's picked up microfine particles of rubber from the road. Just rub it between your fingers or on a cloth to prove this, it's not grease at all.

Therefore you should never, ever degrease or totally clean the chain. Never put it through a chain cleaner, never put it through an ultrasonic and never use water to clean it period. No chemicals or water should ever be used to clean a wax chain unless you're starting over. If you ever do clean it with water or solvents or anything, you have to start over. You then have to fully clean it, inside and out, and fully remove all solvents, water, chemicals, lubes, everything. You then have to put the chain back to metal only. And then you have to start the wax build up process again.

With Squirt the initial process is that you apply the lube and let it sit for 5-30 minutes to soak into empty dry rollers and then you apply again. And then after the first ride you apply a third time. That should get you back to having the rollers full of wax again and back on track. Any cleaning or solvents or anything is just removing wax from within the rollers and is never a bad idea.

So how does Squirt say to clean the chain? How do hot wax folks say to clean the chain? You sort of don't. You use a dry brush and/or rag to clean the outside of it, to get off the rubber/wax residue and that's the end of it. Clean off the jockey wheels, dry brush the chain and just reapply the lube. Once about every couple hundred miles or so. As for the cassette you can just clean it with soap and water and let it dry fully.
 

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The black is extra wax that's picked up microfine particles of rubber from the road. Just rub it between your fingers or on a cloth to prove this, it's not grease at all.
Actually, the black is fine metal particles from your chain contacting your cassette cogs and crank rings and slowly wearing them down.
 

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Actually, the black is fine metal particles from your chain contacting your cassette cogs and crank rings and slowly wearing them down.
You can have a debate with the Squirt company if you want over it. I'm on their side though. Seeing how the black residue turns up after one ride.

I don't care personally, only thing I care about is the lack of grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The Molten Speed Wax I use for the initial hot wax is actually a dark gray color. I'm not sure what the ingredient is that makes it that way. I know if it sits in the pot without being stirred the dark gray stuff settles to the bottom. I swish the chain around to make sure I get good penetration into the rollers.

I suspect the stuff that is collecting on the waxed chain is a (finer grit) subset of the the same combination of dust and dirt and chain wear residue that would be collecting on the oiled chain. The larger particles don't stick, but the very slightly tacky feel of the wax does collect the very finest dust and such. This is easily brushed off with a small brush before you apply fresh wax.

EDIT: FWIW, here is the actual instructions from the proprietors
(PDF) http://www.squirtlube.com/squirtlube-application.pdf
 

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I do what ghetto cop does.. I have 6000k on my chain and it's still in spec too... Everything shifts like butter

Chain in KMC SL11 bling gold
 

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I've been using Squirt for quite a while now, but am getting a bit disappointed with it. My chain is squeaking too soon after lubing. I'm trying out NFS now.

Update: NFS seems very long lasting and the chain stays pretty clean and quiet, especially when you occasionally wipe the chain with a rag. I think I'll stick with Squirt on my mountain bikes though, because of the dirty environment.
 
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I have been using Squirt on a new drivetrain. After only 500 miles, my experience is that I need to re-lube about every 100 miles or less to keep it quiet.

On the other hand, Chain-L would keep my chain quiet for hundreds of miles, but it was super messy. Almost no wear on a Dura-Ace chain with 2k miles, though.

I'll see how many miles the new Ultegra chain will go with Squirt, but I really like the cleanliness factor.
 

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Actually, the black is fine metal particles from your chain contacting your cassette cogs and crank rings and slowly wearing them down.
Maybe you can prove that by seeing if the black stuff sticks to a magnet. I think the black is simply dirt and maybe a tiny amount of wear particles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok,

Time for a followup question.

For those of you with waxed chains, what are you lubing your jockey wheels with? They obviously need to stay clean (oil/grease free) on the outside, but what about the bushings?
 

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Ok,

Time for a followup question.

For those of you with waxed chains, what are you lubing your jockey wheels with? They obviously need to stay clean (oil/grease free) on the outside, but what about the bushings?
I use grease. The bottom pulley on my derailleur has a sealed bearing and isn't serviceable.
 

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Ok,

Time for a followup question.

For those of you with waxed chains, what are you lubing your jockey wheels with? They obviously need to stay clean (oil/grease free) on the outside, but what about the bushings?
These bushings are usually Teflon. With age and use, they may start squeaking. When they do, I use the same lube I use for my chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I use the regular squirt on occasion, in between wax baths. I don't ride in cold weather much, so no, I haven't tried the cold weather yet.
 

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I noticed that there is a cold weather version of Squirt. Anyone use it yet? I put the regular Squirt on my chain and started riding the new bike in January. It wasn't terribly cold here this past winter, though.
I bought some last year. I never used it but I rode all winter long. I used the normal stuff right down to about 35 degrees F with zero issues at all. Road a few days on snow covered streets.

In my thoughts it's for those that experience consistent temps below freezing and ride below freezing. I think the normal is fine otherwise.

Although I do store my bikes inside a warm house, that might have something to do with it.
 
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