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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
SRAM bottom bracket suck big time....140 miles out of mine before the non drive side bearing is toast...same on a teammates of mine. I put one on from my TT bike that I took a Truvative crank off...it's loose also, just not as much. Same place also...

So I've got a Superfly Ceramic BB on the way that will hopefully solve the problem.

It's kinda sad considering the rest of the 09 SRAM Rival group is so freaking good, to have such a weak part like that in the drive train is pretty much inexcusable.

Rant over....:mad:
 

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No problems from my BlackBox.
 

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Something tells me



On a serious note, have you ever run an external BB on this bike before? Has the BB been properly faced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cyclo-phile said:
On a serious note, have you ever run an external BB on this bike before? Has the BB been properly faced?
Well, the bike is brand new and pretty much designed around an external BB. The BB was properly faced and the problem has nothing to do with the bearing cup....it's the bearings that suck.

Like I said...not only have I had an issue with it, but so has a teammate of mine. Also reading through the internet it seems to be an issue with all SRAM/Truvative BB's.

The one I pulled off my Time Trial bike was 2 years old, but only had maybe 800-900 miles total on it and it had the same problem...loose non drive side bearings.

My teammate called up one the LBS he uses and they told him it's a very common problem and the only advice they had for him was to tighten the crank bold (that holds the crank together) as hard as possible...to the point it won't turn any longer to help with the problem. My guess is this advice is to push the bearing farther into the bearing cup for a tighter fit.

Overall....SRAM Bottom Bracket bearings suck.

My Shimano external bottom bracket from last year had 6000-7000 miles on it with zero problems. The new Shimano BB I put on my TT bike...Zero problems. SRAM bottom brackets I'm 0-2.
 

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I just changed out my Trek FX 7.5 from a cheap Shimano triple crankset with Octalink to an Ultegra triple on a Hollowtech II BB. Glad to hear, Wookie, that your Shimano external BB is holding up well. Other than that - I ride a Campagnolo Record BB on my vintage Puch. That thing is as smooth as the day I bought it: 1983. Countless miles on it, but well taken care of.

Thanks for the warning on the SRAM. That is too bad. I hope you write them a letter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Puchnuts said:
Thanks for the warning on the SRAM. That is too bad. I hope you write them a letter.
Well, in SRAM's defense...aside from the bottom bracket...I love the 09 Rival. Shifts are quick and accurate, the group is light, the feel is good, overall quality of components seems to be high and I'm not sure it's price/performance level can be beat.

They just need to fix the bottom bracket bearing issue.
 

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sram bb

Wookiebiker said:
Well, in SRAM's defense...aside from the bottom bracket...I love the 09 Rival. Shifts are quick and accurate, the group is light, the feel is good, overall quality of components seems to be high and I'm not sure it's price/performance level can be beat.

They just need to fix the bottom bracket bearing issue.
have you contacted sram, maybe they can send you new cups? aren't new ones $30?
 

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Original Italian Shimano 600 FTW :thumbsup:

On a serious note, thanks for the heads up, I had considered an SRAM ceramic for the Ciocc.
 

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Hmmm...by design, SRAM/ Truvativ cranks are not supposed to put a side load on the BB.

We haven't many issues with SRAM bbs...FSA bbs on the other hand. Damn.
 

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I would contact SRAM. Their people are great. I talked with them at the NAHBS. They may have a suggestion as well as a replacement.
 

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You're SUPPOSED to tighten the crank bolt until it stops. The non-drive bearing has a smaller ID that is captured between the non-drive crank and a step on the spindle. If the bolt isn't torqued properly the crankset will be able to float laterally and very well could have caused the early bearing wear you're seeing. RTFM, dude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cyclo-phile said:
You're SUPPOSED to tighten the crank bolt until it stops. The non-drive bearing has a smaller ID that is captured between the non-drive crank and a step on the spindle. If the bolt isn't torqued properly the crankset will be able to float laterally and very well could have caused the early bearing wear you're seeing. RTFM, dude.
Actually, there is a torque spec for the crank bolt (to lazy to look it up right now)...that I exceeded by a little bit when tightening the crank. It does not say to crank down until you can't crank it any more!

If your way is supposed to be right, I could probably crank that sucker down until the bolt breaks....A lot of good that's going to do me :mad2:
 

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That's been a known issue for a while with SRAM/Truvativ cranks/
 
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