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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anybody have experience with using SRAM shifters with Campy drivetrain? i've read from a few sources on the web of people mating the two with success. apparently the cable pull is close enough where it works (about .9 mm difference across the span of the whole cassette i believe. so .09mm difference of per shift on a 10 speed setup as i understand it?)

the reason i ask is because i would love to run full campy on a Serotta frame i just bought, but prefer sram shifters over campy. i would love to get some "real world" feedback on this, thanks!
 

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info...

The problem with this idea is that SRAM shifters pull 3mm of cable for every shift. Campy pulls an average 2.83mm, but they are not uniform. Campy 10 shifters pull 2.5mm five times 3mm twice and 3.5mm twice.

After five shifts, a SRAM shifter will pull 15mm of cable, but a Campy RD only needs 12.5mm. That's one whole shift worth of cable pull error.

A shiftmate can reduce the average pull to more closely match Campy, but it would still pull too much on the first five and too little on the last four.
 

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What about the front derailer? I'm going to switch to a 2x10 for my cross bike and have Sram shifters and a Campy front derailer.
 

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Kram said:
What about the front derailer? I'm going to switch to a 2x10 for my cross bike and have Sram shifters and a Campy front derailer.
Front derailleur is irrelevant to the shifters - they'll shift anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
C-40 said:
The problem with this idea is that SRAM shifters pull 3mm of cable for every shift. Campy pulls an average 2.83mm, but they are not uniform. Campy 10 shifters pull 2.5mm five times 3mm twice and 3.5mm twice.

After five shifts, a SRAM shifter will pull 15mm of cable, but a Campy RD only needs 12.5mm. That's one whole shift worth of cable pull error.

A shiftmate can reduce the average pull to more closely match Campy, but it would still pull too much on the first five and too little on the last four.
ah, right... i think i did read this somewhere... that's too bad. i was considering the shiftmate but i think it's too ugly. i was thinking about installing it right after the shifter housing leaves the bar tape instead of before the rear derailleur to make it less visible but ehhh..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
farva said:
If you are willing to use SRAM shifters then you might as well run it all SRAM & avoid the shifting problems all together. It will likely be lighter & significantly less expensive too
yeah, i know.. but campy would be so pretty on my lugged serotta
 

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gukachu said:
yeah, i know.. but campy would be so pretty on my lugged serotta
Only with Campy levers. The mismatch would ruin the look. And the performance.

I don't often run into people who don't like Campy shifters. What is it you don't like about them?
 

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PlatyPius said:
Front derailleur is irrelevant to the shifters - they'll shift anything.
I don't agree. Most will work together to some degree, and many combos can be made to be acceptable. But there are minor differences in pull amongst brands (and even models) that make some work better than others, especially with the indexed shifters. Campy levers (save for Escape models) will shift anything, but other combinations can yield places where it's tough to get a good clean trim in some gear combos without sacrificing in others.
 

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danl1 said:
I don't agree. Most will work together to some degree, and many combos can be made to be acceptable. But there are minor differences in pull amongst brands (and even models) that make some work better than others, especially with the indexed shifters. Campy levers (save for Escape models) will shift anything, but other combinations can yield places where it's tough to get a good clean trim in some gear combos without sacrificing in others.
Well, we all want good clean trim, don't we?

Seriously, though, this is why I maintain that indexed front shifting is the most moronic thing ever invented.
 

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danl1 said:
Campy levers (save for Escape models) will shift anything, but other combinations can yield places where it's tough to get a good clean trim in some gear combos without sacrificing in others.
So, are you saying that 10-speed Record or 9-speed Chorus shifters will work as well with a SRAM Red or Force front derailleur as those same shifters would with a Campy FD?

Dave, who typically mixes and matches bike parts from various manufacturers but hasn't included many SRAM parts in the blends...yet
 

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DHallerman said:
So, are you saying that 10-speed Record or 9-speed Chorus shifters will work as well with a SRAM Red or Force front derailleur as those same shifters would with a Campy FD?

Dave, who typically mixes and matches bike parts from various manufacturers but hasn't included many SRAM parts in the blends...yet
I won't say yes only because I don't have personal experience with that particular combination, and can't particularly imagine why one would. But yeah, a non-Escape Campy front lever is nearly as versatile as a Dia-Compe Silver shifter.
 

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PlatyPius said:
Well, we all want good clean trim, don't we?

Seriously, though, this is why I maintain that indexed front shifting is the most moronic thing ever invented.
Generally agreed, save the problem that non-indexed front doesn't fit into the integrated lever design very well. It needs something like the Campy thumb button, and that's ergonomically - uh - controversial. I like it well enough, but gotta admit that the single-lever SRAM trick is pretty darn cool.

The argument is kinda weak, too, because as long as you buy the right parts for one another, indexed fronts work terrifically. It's silly to bemoan Fords because they won't fit Chevy engines without major mods.

To show my heresy, I sometimes think I prefer Escape to non-Escape Campy front. There. I said it.
 

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I'd do that (and I DO do that with my roadie) but I HAVE a Campy Veloce 10 sp front derailer and SRAM shifters, so if they work I don't have to buy anything, m'kay?
 

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I know this might be a bit of an old thread, but I am running into some issues with this, and I am not willing to give up yet. Here is my setup. Record 10 speed shifters. Red front and rear DR. Red crankset. Shimano Cassette, and I think a shimano chain. I like the campy shifters for the ability to drop gears with the thumb button, and although look is somewhat important, I am not worried about how fast I look in a parking lot.

That said, I am noticing that the campy shifters struggle with the upward shift in the higher tooth cogs in the back. I had it spot on but changed wheelsets and now I am having some issues. This is my plan. I do not want a shift mate yet, so I am planning on trying to go with a bit of a different spacer between the 3 joined cogs, and the free cog to possibly tighten up my spacing some. I know this might impact chain line inside the cassette, so we shall see. I will report back. If this does not work a shift mate is on the way.
 

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Rmabus,
After my Rival shifter failed I went with a set of Veloce 10s shifters after reading on the this forum about folks having good success mating the two. For me it worked fine right away without any special tweaking. The rest of the setup is all Rival. I am glad I did this as I enjoy this bike more now with Campy shifters (my other 4 bikes are full Campy). Exactly what issue are you having? Incomplete shift? Grinding noises? Other?
 

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I have been running this for a good while now and it was fine. The recent issues tend to center around two things. My rear derailleur was way loose (somehow) and I switched wheels out. What I am noticing is that when I shift in the first 6 or 7 gears it is great. I get to the higher gears and it starts having a hard time making the bigger jump. If I dial it up to hit those gears, I then get a bit of difficulty hitting my lower gears when downshifting, and it is really hard to get back into the 11. From what I have read the pull is different in the higher gear range. I know the campy sram setup rely's on some play in the shifting, but I am also using ride on cables which may hurt the "play" part of this some. I wonder if I went to a conventional shift cable setup, I would not fix this.
 

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I have been running this for a good while now and it was fine. The recent issues tend to center around two things. My rear derailleur was way loose (somehow) and I switched wheels out. What I am noticing is that when I shift in the first 6 or 7 gears it is great. I get to the higher gears and it starts having a hard time making the bigger jump. If I dial it up to hit those gears, I then get a bit of difficulty hitting my lower gears when downshifting, and it is really hard to get back into the 11. From what I have read the pull is different in the higher gear range. I know the campy sram setup rely's on some play in the shifting, but I am also using ride on cables which may hurt the "play" part of this some. I wonder if I went to a conventional shift cable setup, I would not fix this.
I was just having a Sram-ergo discussion on velocipede. One poster suggested that you need to overshift a bit and dial it back on setups that he's tried... so your suggestion that there isn't enough play in the cable might be along the same lines if that somehow takes away that little extra give.

So to be clear, it worked before...

Then you changed:
wheels
cables
tightened derailleur?

The only two things that come to mind are:

1. split the difference, dial in the RD cable tension while in a middle cog... but since you've tried both extremes, that probably doesn't help.
2. did you rebuild the RD and mix up the two pulleys?

*edit* 3. before changing cables, you should be able to determine if that is the problem... shift into the gear where it won't go... then give a little extra pull on the shift cable (manually pull the cable into the next gear). Does it shift? Does it stay in that gear or drop back down the same way it would from the shifter?
 
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