[sprtbiker]

I have a road bike, Canondale CAAD9. Bought it many years ago. I used to ride my bike more frequently but due to family obligations, etc, I don't ride as much. I commute once a week. I have a rear rack on the back (attaches via rear skewer and brake assembly mount for a bag that can hold my laptop).

Here are my questions;
1. Currently I'm riding a 56 cm. I'm 5'10" and I'm getting up there in age (50) and don't like bending too much. Should I get a 58 cm or just a stem riser?

2. What road bike would you recommend I should get that can still accommodate my rear rack?

 

[No Time Toulouse]

1: Going to a larger frame will make you stretch out more, i.e., 'bend over' more. Most people looking for a more upright stance go for a smaller frame.

2: If you are commuting and need a rack mount, buy a touring bike, not a road bike.

 

[Lombard]

I am also 5' 10" and ride a 56. You don't change your bike size when you want to be upright. Yes, your handlebars will be higher, but as @No Time Toulouse said, you will also be stretched out too much.

If you want to be more upright and are in the market for a new bike, keep in mind that the CAAD bikes have a very aggessive race position. You should look for an endurance road bike as they have a more upright position. A gravel bike might also be a good choice if you commute on roads with bad pavement and they have more places you can attach racks and panniers. A touring bike is also a possibility, but probably overkill as they are heavy and designed for big loads.

If you would like to make your CAAD more rideable, you could get a more upright stem and also make sure all of your headset spacers are under your stem - although be sure the entire stem clamp contacts the headset.

 

[Coolhand]

riser stem to start seems the likeliest approach.

 

[sprtbiker]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad, I asked as I was already looking on FB marketplace for a larger frame bike thinking that is what I need. I'll stick to the 56 cm.

 

[barelfly]

You may be able to raise you bars a bit if you have spacers on top of Them. It won’t be a huge difference, but it would put you in a more upright position. That would be the cheapest adjustment to start. If you feel that helps but want more, then a stem as others mention.

 

[Catmandoo]

2: If you are commuting and need a rack mount, buy a touring bike, not a road bike.

Or a gravel bike, lighter than a tourer, most/many have eyelets for rear racks. Can handle pretty big tires which are useful for commuting. Ideal is a 2nd set of wheels, one with skinny (28mm or so) road tires, for fun road bike rides, 2nd wheels with larger/gravel/commuting tires. I keep the 11-34 cassette on my gravel tire wheels, use a 12/25 on my road wheels.

@OP, keep the same size bike (measure the top tube, from middle of seat post to middle of headtube, with tape level to ground), change the stem to a higher rise, all kinds available. If doing 15-30 degree rise, you would likely need a longer reach stem to keep the bar about the same reach as current.

 

[duriel]

If you are trying to sit more upright, a shorter and more upright can be used together. Both or either will help address this issue.
But if you get a short stem that is upright, the upright portion is really just a small change (because the stem length is so short).

 

[Lombard]

You may be able to raise you bars a bit if you have spacers on top of Them. It won’t be a huge difference, but it would put you in a more upright position. That would be the cheapest adjustment to start. If you feel that helps but want more, then a stem as others mention.

Another no-cost adjustment is to tilt the bars slightly so your hoods are higher. Just don't go too far with this or your wrists will complain.