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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,
if I intend to switch my rear wheels frequently, (from my training wheels to my carbon wheels), what should be the things that I consider? ie would I need to ensure that I use the same Casettes, or can I actually change brands or model? Do I need to readjust the read derailuers or front derailuers?

My current training wheels are Fulcrum Racing 3 and the group set that I am using is the Shimano Ultegra 6600 SL.

When I get my carbon wheels, I was contemplating on getting a DuraAce casette instead, is this possible?

How much adjustment must I do when I change the rear wheels ?
 

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Rollin' Stones
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If your carbon wheels have a carbon brake surface, you HAVE to switch brake pads. If the brake surface is aluminum on BOTH wheelsets, the pads can stay with whatever you are using. The deal with swapping wheels is the ammount of chain wear/cassette wear and it's affect on shifting. If you have, as an example, a Shimano 11x23 on both wheelsets, I doubt you notice a difference. If both wheels are 10 speed, then you won't have to really adjust anything, just put the wheel in and go. Give it a try, NOT ON RACE DAY :) , to see how it works. If your race wheels have a wider rim or something, the brakes might have to get a twist on the barrell adjuster to get you to stop.
 

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Wouldn't you have to possibly do some minor rear derailleur adjustment?? The chances of the different rear wheels being spot on equal is pretty slim...
 

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Cassette level is ok to modify (from ult. to ace) staying within your brand will ensure best shifting and wear and is generally reccomended. and as the other poster said it would be the difference between having a machined sidewall or a carbon surface that would determine if you needed to switch the pads.

i switch between an 11x25 and a 12x25 (no reason, just got the 12 on sale) and it is fine. The only thing I have to adjust is the brake pad position. The carbon wheel with alu braking surface seems to sit just a hair differently then the aerohead i use for training and bad weather. Only takes a minute or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks folks!
I am still weigh the pros and cons about whether to get alum aero wheels or full carbon clinchers... I am definitely staying entrenched in the clincher camp...:p but as to whether to get to the alu aero or the full carbon.. its still... :idea:

I also understand that for some full carbon clinchers, the brake pad position would have to be reposition, simply because the braking surface runs on a different circumference as the alu rims... decisions decisions decisions.... :mad2:
 

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cyclesport45 said:
Wouldn't you have to possibly do some minor rear derailleur adjustment?? The chances of the different rear wheels being spot on equal is pretty slim...
Generally no. This stuff is supposed to be made to .01mm tolerance, so you might need a 1/2 turn on the RD cable tension at the most. Stops should not need to be adjusted at all. If they do, probably some shim is in the wrong place on the rear hub.
 

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When I wrenched for a team, I used feeler gauges, and micro spacers to make sure that all the cassette first cogs were exactly the same distance from the face of the axle. This allowed any wheel to be switched onto any bike without any RD adjustments. (all had rims with the same brake surface diameter)
 

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Save money

lactician said:
When I get my carbon wheels, I was contemplating on getting a DuraAce casette instead, is this possible?
Unless you are a top level pro, competing in races with long, steep climbs, the DA cassette offers absolutely nothing other than a high price and rapid wear of the titanium cogs. It doesn't shift better, it costs more, and it wears fast. Forget it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kerry Irons said:
Unless you are a top level pro, competing in races with long, steep climbs, the DA cassette offers absolutely nothing other than a high price and rapid wear of the titanium cogs. It doesn't shift better, it costs more, and it wears fast. Forget it.
OK... :D I'm no top level pro, and money is really hard to come by these days... my initial thoughts about slapping on a set of Duraace cassettes on my carbon wheels only because I thought that from the weight saving, it would make for a better ride? :confused:

Anyway, you are right though, DA casette is almost double the price of the Ultera. My current group set is the Ultegra SL, and they are really top value for money, that I must concur.
 

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I swap between alum training wheels (18mm wide rims w parallel brake track, ultegra cassette) and 2009 zipp tubular 404s (>21mm angled brake track, red cassette). However, currently when I put the zipps on I swap the brake pads and turn my caliper cable adjustment barrel 5 turns wider, adjust the small allen screw on the caliper itself 1/4 turn counter-clock-wise, and turn my rear derailleur adjustment barrel 1/2 turn clock-wise. It took some careful tuning to determine what worked the first time. It's repeatable but still takes 10-ish minutes for the change over (mostly the pad change).

I like the idea of the feeler guage and micro adjust spacers and will look into that to eliminate the shifting adjustment.

Currently my rear wheels do not have exactly the same dish so bringing training wheels inline with my racing wheels in my next project.
 

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FBinNY said:
When I wrenched for a team, I used feeler gauges, and micro spacers to make sure that all the cassette first cogs were exactly the same distance from the face of the axle. This allowed any wheel to be switched onto any bike without any RD adjustments. (all had rims with the same brake surface diameter)
I like this idea. Does mixing hub brands complicate this approach? Could you please describe exactly how this is done? Are you saying to slide feeler gauges between largest cog and hub face just inside of the free hub body? Or the outer end of the axle face and the smallest cog near the frame dropout? What type of spacers and where to find them? Is is possible that different brand hubs put the hub face just inside the free hub body in slightly different places?
 

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lactician said:
Anyway, you are right though, DA casette is almost double the price of the Ultera. My current group set is the Ultegra SL, and they are really top value for money, that I must concur.
And, you should know that many people report that 105 shifts as well as DA or Ultegra, with further savings possible. On my Campy Record drive train, I run Veloce' cassettes; no difference in shifting, a very small weight penalty, good durability, and MUCH cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks!

Kerry Irons said:
And, you should know that many people report that 105 shifts as well as DA or Ultegra, with further savings possible. On my Campy Record drive train, I run Veloce' cassettes; no difference in shifting, a very small weight penalty, good durability, and MUCH cheaper.
Hey buddy,
thanks for the info on the 105s. I had friends who use the 105s and they are pretty impress by the performance. But in the end, I guess its a psychological thing that people would like to 'upgrade' when they can afford it. Similarly, I was almost gonna get myself a DA casette just to save some weight, even though the price is double that of the Ultegra. :mad2: And the thing is, which someone pointed out, some of these components are top level components, meaning that these stuff, light as they may be, but they don't last and the top level competitor are sponsored! So as long as the darn thing wears out, they get another one FREE! Not the same for us regular mortals though :p
At the end of the day, its just great that there is a forum here with people who care enough to share their experience and save the uninitiated from being fleeced!

Thanks! :thumbsup:
 
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