x2 on the SL2. Great all-around bike..super stiff, but a fairly compliant ride for being so stiff.Catapult said:if your serious about the upgrade why not get the SL2 with the 11r ultra high-mod carbon? It's substantially stiffer than the SL and more comfortable to boot. I'm loving mine and find it to be a great all-around bike.
The complete must be a leftover model at that price. You definitely do better buying the whole bike. It killed me to buy just the frame too, but I already had the complete group. I even contemplated buying the complete and just selling what I didn't need.agordon1980 said:I really didn't want to shell out the extra $1k for the difference between the SL and SL2. I'm fairly new to biking but it seems like you really get hosed when you buy the components seperate. The same bike shop has the complete Tarmac SL2 on sale for $5k with SRAM red components and the rival high end wheels; but they want $2900 for just the frame.
That's a bargain - go buy that bike! The frames are special ordered from Specialized, so there is never any product sitting on the floor waiting to be discounted. You should be able to do a bit better than MSRP. I can understand being cost-sensitive. I went with the Pro SL instead of the SL2 for that reason only, and then built it up with discounted DA7800.agordon1980 said:The same bike shop has the complete Tarmac SL2 on sale for $5k with SRAM red components and the rival high end wheels; but they want $2900 for just the frame.
Well, I strongly disagree! While the 10r "feels" stiffer than the 6r, it's nothing that makes a difference to me personally. It could be 10 times stiffer, I never reach the kind of power output to notice. I only do a "measly" 19mph (typical) on the flat for a long sustained period.PJ352 said:...But IMO comparing 6r triple to 10r FACT IS is going to be noticeably different. Not so much in ride quality (and certainly not handling)...
I'm guessing you mean Roval wheels, and that being the case, I agree with UKbloke. Stimulate the economy and go pick that up. The Rovals have definitely improved, to the point where some teams are actually using them this year.The same bike shop has the complete Tarmac SL2 on sale for $5k with SRAM red components and the rival high end wheels
PJ352 said:You can do that (disagree). It's allowed.
But IMO you based your response on your experiences without possibly accounting for the technology of the two bikes in question and the riders initial comments.
FACT IS is Spec's current state of the art technology. That being the case, when compared to a 6r triple monocoque frame, there is going to be a discernable difference to a stronger rider (but not in ride/ handling, which I'll get to).
As you go up the ladder in models lines, what companies like Spec and Trek among others strive to maintain is their signature ride. That's why the geo doesn't change within model lines. What a consumer does get for his extra $$ is a lighter but stronger frame, yielding less in flex, but (if designed properly) similar in compliance to lower end models. You touched on this when you stated that (paraphrasing) you don't feel 'refreshed' after an hour ride on the SL2. Less flex and less 'forgiving'.
Taking into consideration how you describe your rides, normally I'd say that a rider such as yourself would do just as well on a lower end frame, but you've got a sensitivity to road buzz that affects your wrists, so a softer ride is probably beneficial. One (unsolicited) suggestion I'd have is to go to 25c tires and run w/ 95 psi. Or, dare I say there's a Roubaix in Paul's future? But now I'm the one that's straying off topic.
If by "twitchy" you mean "flies out of control" then no, it's not twitchy.Catapult said:not sure where the twitchy claims are coming from regarding the SL2. Yeah, its got a steeper head angle than the Roubaix, but it's not twitchy in my opinion. It's completely steady going downhill at 55 mph with 700x23 tires...and no hands on the bars (albeit briefly, I was trying to beat my "record" of 62 mph)
This sounds like rider fatigue! Most people get more sloppy on the bike as they approach their endurance limits.PaulRivers said:If by "twitchy" you mean "it's difficult to maintain a normal straight line while pedaling hard, especially near the end of the ride" that's why I mean.
This might be your pedal action. Try to spin smooth pedalling circles around the whole revolution rather than cranking down hard on the down stroke. You could try a set of rollers to see if you can improve your pedal action and ability to hold a line.PaulRivers said:Oh, and it's definitely "twitchier" on the the downhill while pedaling than my older bike (the 2nd definition). I thought maybe it was partially just the fact that the wheels are so light...