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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an '08 Soloist Team (Ultegra / Wolf CL Fork) that I use mostly for 1-2 hour rides. Occasionally, I will go on 4 or 6 hour rides and century rides.

I was thinking of upgrading the bike by getting new handlebars (3T Ergonova) or a new wheel set (DT Swiss 1450).

Any thoughts? Other upgrades anyone would recommend?
 

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Well, since you don't say what your current bars and wheels are, it's hard to say! I just put together an S2 which comes stock with Ergonovas. Some people really like them, I found them too wide on the tops, but I'm not that large. I do a lot of climbing, so the top geometry is important to me. I really like the FSA K-force compact. There is just a slight cant and width to the tops which I really like, and the bend gives me the perfect hand position for reaching the shifters and brakes.

As for wheels, those are one of MANY average/good ~1400g wheelsets. ROL, Hed, Mavic, Easton etc. are also worth a look. Reynolds and Edge are awesome if you want to go full carbon tubular or clincher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Current Handlebars - 3T 4G XL
Current Wheels - Shimano WH-R500

What would an upgrade in wheels get me with regard to performance or comfort on long or short rides?

Im not a racer, so what advantages are there for me?
 

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Since it's for pleasure, probably the only thing you'll gain is comfort, and for that I'd go with carbon rims. It's likely you won't notice much with another alu rim, but I've heard only good things about the HED Ardennes. I found the Soloist Team to be a pretty stiff frame. My old alu bike (carbon fork and seatpost) with a set of Bontrager alu rims made for a surprisingly harsh ride. I picked up a set of carbon wheels on the cheap (tubulars 'cause I'm into glue :D ) and they absorbed much of the road frequencey on really rough chip seal. I probably wouldn't recommend tubulars for you, but there are some really nice all carbon clinchers out there. It just depends on how much you want to spend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ride 25mm tires. Do you think the HED's will work well with that size tire? The HEDs are engineered so that the rim width is identical to the tire width. Are there any other carbon rim-based wheels that you would recommend?
 

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smtesta said:
I ride 25mm tires. Do you think the HED's will work well with that size tire? The HEDs are engineered so that the rim width is identical to the tire width. Are there any other carbon rim-based wheels that you would recommend?
Absolutely. The wider HED rim would definitely benefit a wider tire, as well. You'd have less of that "lightbulb" shape. In fact, I've measured tires and some 25s are closer to 23 and some 23s are actually a bit wider. It really depends on the tire model and manufacturer. As for carbon clinchers: HED jet 4s, Flash-Point FP40, Reynolds Attack are a good lower cost option and they are full carbon, not carbon bonded aluminum like the other two. Reynolds new MV32C UL ties, in my books, for the best carbon clincher out there with Edge Composites 38mm clincher. Both Reynolds and Edge are known for making very durable carbon wheels. Look around, prices can vary wildly. One other thing, if you go carbon clincher, remember to take care removing and installing tires. You don't want to use anything that will gouge the rim/hooks. Plastic tire levers, if you use anything.
 

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How much do you want to spend?

As a note: Carbon rim'd wheels are stiffer than aluminum rims. There is zero vertical compliance compared to an aluminum rim.



Bar Tape: Deda Elementi w/ Plugs 38
Bottle Cage: tune Wassertrger w/ bolts 21
Bottom Bracket: Campagnolo Record 57
Rear Brakes: ZeroGravity OG-06SS (F+R) 213
Front Brakes: 0
Cables: Nokon Brake & Shift w/ SS Cable 106
Cassette: Shimano DURA ACE CS-7800 12/23 183
Chain: KMC X10SL 225
Crankset: Campagnolo Record CT 642
Derlr (Front) Dura-Ace FD7800 BRZ 74
Derlr (Rear) RD7800 SS w/ Al pivot, jockey bolts 171
Fork: Wolf CL 479
Frame: 2006 Cervelo Soloist Team 54cm 1351
Handlebar: Easton EC90 Equipe Pro Bend (26.0mm) 196
Headset: Cane Creek IS-2 75
Headset Cap/Bolt: included in headset 0
Headset Spacer: Carbon 5
Pedals: Crank Brothers Egg Beaters 4Ti 169
Quick Releases: ControlTech Ti Boltons 40
Seat Binder: Cervelo seat binder incl w/ frame 0
Seat: Tune Speedneedle 97
Seatpost: Cervelo Carbon Single Position Aero Post 171
Shifters: Dura-Ace ST-7800 418
Stem: Syntace F99, 105mm w/ Ti bolts 97
Tire (Front) Michelin ProRace3 201
Tire (Rear): Michelin ProRace3 202
Tubes: Michelin Ultra Light 148
Wheelset (Front): 0
Wheelset (Rear): 0
Wheelset: Custom https://www.whitemountainwheels.com/ 1419
--Rims: Reynolds DV46C (2007) 0
--Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray (Black) 0
--Nipples: Reynolds specific 0
--Front Hub: Tune Mig70 0
--Rear Hub: Tune Mag190 0


TOTALS:
grams: 6798 g
pounds: 14.99 lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Budget is in the range of HED Ardennes and DuraAce (1 to 1.5 k).
The HED Ardennes are Scandium....this is the wheel set im leaning toward.
 

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If your wheels are those I'm thinking of (about 2000 grams), i would pick wheels personally. The gain you get in acceleration is going to be VERY noticeable.

Otherwise, if you have a fit issue that can also be annoying. Are you sure that bars are solution? If fit is not an issue, then i would say that new bars are not going to knock your socks off in the performance area.
 

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Looks like I'm the odd one out recommending the DTSwiss route. I run a set of handbuilt DTs (only slightly different from the 1450s) on my Cervelo S1 (aka soloist team). Sure it's an aluminum rim. But in comparison it's an absolutly BOMB PROOF wheel that's very light, very redily available replacement parts if needed, and completely self-servicable hubs.

The spokes are butted (on the Mon Chesserel, NOT on the black 1450's, those have bladed spokes) so that actually will help dampen the ride.

I do think the peace of mind you'd get w/ them kinda adds to the "comfort" factor.

There's no gimicky design to the wheels, just a very good, very utilitarian design, comparativly superlight, in a very well executed manner.
 

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A carbon rim is built with the carbon laid so it has no vertical give, aluminum in the nature of the material has flex, unless it is build very thick there will be slight vertical give. There is a reason carbon wheels fly up the hills there so stiff! You would be much better to have a light Alum set of wheels - just because carbon frames ect have that 'give' in them dosent mean all carbon products do
 

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While you're correct about the carbon, there is much more to wheel stiffness than just the hoop. Number of spokes as well as flange width are huge factors in determining the stiffness of a wheel. The hoops on my Reynolds DV46ULs might be as rigid as iron, but built with 16x20 spokes on fairly narrow WI hubs, makes them noticeably flexy.
 

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Quixote said:
While you're correct about the carbon, there is much more to wheel stiffness than just the hoop. Number of spokes as well as flange width are huge factors in determining the stiffness of a wheel. The hoops on my Reynolds DV46ULs might be as rigid as iron, but built with 16x20 spokes on fairly narrow WI hubs, makes them noticeably flexy.
You know how to get really good vertical compliance on wheels, regardless of whether they're aluminum or carbon? Put tires on them; put tubes in the tires, and fill them up with air :)
 

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if your budget is $1000 to $1500, get customs wheels. they will be as light if not lighter that any of the ones mentioned above (aluminum rim for the build) and about $850 to $900.00.

Kinlin 30 mm
Ligero Hubs
CXray spokes
1390 grams and stiff enough, bullet proof.
Spend the rest of the money on the bars and still have a lot of money left.
 
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