Riding an old steel Bianchi north up the coast from San Diego to Monterey



Every cyclist must experience Highway 1 at least once in their lives.

Editor's Note: The Angry Singlespeeder is a collection of mercurial musings from contributing editor Kurt Gensheimer. In no way do his maniacal diatribes about all things bike oriented represent the opinions of Mtbr, RoadBikeReview, or any of their employees, contractors, janitorial staff, family members, household pets, or any other creature, living or dead. You can submit questions or comments to Kurt at [email protected]. And make sure to check out Kurt's previous columns.

It's been a week since I rolled from Escondido on a 35 year old Bianchi touring bike tipping the scales at 42 pounds. My destination was Monterey where the Sea Otter Classic is underway as we speak. It was to be a five day journey of 560 miles to Santa Cruz, and the weather forecast was looking stellar.

People warned me about the headwinds riding north along the California coast, but on my first 140 mile day to Santa Monica, a 15 mph tailwind pushed me the whole way. Despite the cooperation of Mother Nature, I knew she was breaking me in nice and slow. And indeed she was.



A view of the engine room.

I didn't need to pack any rain gear because the forecast called for nothing but sun throughout the five day journey by bike. But before my legs even swung over the saddle, I walked outside to find the Bianchi completely drenched in water after accidentally leaving it sitting next to a timed sprinkler that just happened to turn on. Something was telling me this was going to be an unforgettable adventure.

I've never done a bikepacking journey like this before, and leaving home on a bike with nothing more than a sleeping bag, hammock, some basic clothing, a camera and a whiskey flask was an incredibly liberating feeling. In fact, I'd never felt so free in my life. For the next five days my existence consisted of only three things: riding, eating and sleeping.



560 miles of beauty…with the exception of Long Beach.

Lately I've been going through some serious life changes, including the big "D", so a trip like this seemed to be the perfect medication to cleanse my mind and soul. Spending time on the bike always clears the mind, and I was expecting to have some kind of epiphany about life. But as I spent as many as 10 hours a day on the bike taking in stunning natural beauty and the oddities of humanity (especially through Venice Beach), there were really only two things on my mind: what I was going to eat and where I could find a good place to pitch my hammock.

The simplicity of my existence was truly amazing. There was no television, no Twitter and no telephones ringing, just an abundance of time and freedom, a sensation that is all too rare in the complex modern world. Literally thousands of cars, trucks and semis buzzed by me during my five day adventure, and although they reached their destinations far faster and more effortlessly than me, they were missing out on the world around them, enclosed in their rolling steel capsules.



The redwoods of Big Sur.

They missed out on randomly bumping into friends along the way, something that happened to me twice; once in San Clemente when I came across my friend Eric riding to work and a second time near Los Olivos when my buddy Elliott drove by on his way to race mountain bikes at Santa Ynez.

They missed out on the post-apocalyptic industrial landscape of Long Beach, riddled with refineries, smoke belching big rigs and treacherous roads where bike commuters ride on bullhorned fixies with no helmets and bandanas over their faces to filter out the pollution.





State Street in Santa Barbara.

They missed out on the gigantic 747s departing LAX, full thrust only 200 feet above the beach bike path, heading off over the Pacific to only God knows where. They missed out on riding up and down State Street in Santa Barbara on a Friday night, where people gather to watch drumming street performers.



Rogue hammock camping on Redwood Creek in Big Sur.

They missed out on sleeping in a hammock close enough to the beach that the crashing waves lull you to sleep. They missed out on the reward of a Tri-Tip sandwich at Cold Springs Tavern after conquering San Marcos Pass. They missed out on riding past all the beautiful wineries on Foxen Canyon Road, and sampling fresh strawberries from the dozens of local fruit stands along the way. They missed out on the brutal 20+ mph headwinds that made the reward of beers and food at the end of the ride so much more meaningful.



Looking north on Highway 1.

They missed out on the awe striking and exhausting 50-mile stretch of Highway 1 between Ragged Point and Big Sur, a road that must be experienced by every cyclist at least once in their lives. They missed out on the soothing sounds of Redwood Creek in Big Sur putting you to sleep like a baby being sung a lullaby.

But perhaps the biggest thing people in cars missed out on is the incredible feeling of accomplishment from such a journey, and all the well wishes of friends and family along the way. Even non-cyclists appreciate and respect a journey by bike, and they welcome you with open arms and wonder wherever you go.



17 Mile Drive in Monterey.

I've been here in the Monterey Bay now for three days, and I look at my Bianchi wishing I was still on that trip. As tired as my legs felt, especially after the final 90-mile day highlighted by ludicrous 40 mph headwinds, I didn't want to stop riding.

After nearly 45 hours in the saddle over five days, the greatest realization on this trip to Sea Otter is simply a reconfirmation of what I already know: I absolutely love riding my bike.

Read The Angry Singlespeeder: Go Adventure.