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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up an '83 Schwinn traveler, and it seams the headset could use some work. It doesnt feel all that bad, but it is very noisy. Can these be serviced, or do you just replace them? I am also not sure which size headset it has either. Do you measure the ID of the steer tube, or OD?

Thanks,
Sean
 

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e39540is said:
I picked up an '83 Schwinn traveler, and it seams the headset could use some work. It doesnt feel all that bad, but it is very noisy. Can these be serviced, or do you just replace them? I am also not sure which size headset it has either. Do you measure the ID of the steer tube, or OD?

Thanks,
Sean
It's a 1" headset....It can probably be serviced....

It will require removing the stem.... Once that's done, you can unscrew the top nut and top cap..

Inspect the cups...as long as they don't have indentations for each bearing, you are probably OK...clean and grease the bearings and cups and then re-tighten everything....

If it needs replaced, Tange makes a decent $20 replacement...The only caution is your might need a 27.0 crown race vs the standard 26.4 crown race.
a set of calipers will make it an easy job to measure

Tange makes them both so just make sure you buy the right one if you need a replacement
 

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Dave's right (once again.) As an option, any shop that deals with J&B can get the Origin8 sealed bearing 1" threaded headset that retails for around $30. Comes with both a 26.4 and a 27.0 crown race, all alloy and, if I don't say so myself, a pretty nice piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
got it apart

Ok, I took the stem off, but my crescent wrench would not go big enough for the headset nut. I grabbed some pliers and gave it the smallest twist, and it was loose. I took the brake cable holder off, then the lockring. The top bearing is pretty dry but looks like after cleaning, and regreasing it should be good. The bottom bearing is even drier, but I think the bearing was in upside down. Which way to the balls point on the lower bearing? That could have been the source of the noise.

Is there a grease that is favored by anyone, or just go with what my LBS has in stock.

Thanks to everyone on this forum, I am having a blast!
 

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If the bearings are in cages, be sure to replace them in the correct orientation. Or, if they are old & worn, replace them with loose bb's of the correct side - leaving space for one extra - with grease, or go to your LBS and get a new caged set.
 

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Good job.
If there are no indentations from the bearings, just clean, apply liberal coating of any standard grease and re-assemble.
When assembled, the front wheel/steerer tube should rotate freely with no play.
Set the bike on the ground and try to rock the front fork/wheel while holding still with Brakes. Shouldn't feel any motion/shimmy.
Lift front wheel up and rotate freely side to side; should not 'stick' or catch anywhere.
Should be quiet and good to go.
 

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Upside down

e39540is said:
The bottom bearing is even drier, but I think the bearing was in upside down.
If the bottom bearing retainer was installed upside down, the headset would barely turn, and the retainer would have been destroyed long ago along with noticeable and significant damage to the cups. It's real easy to tell which way ball bearing retainers should be installed, because if you put them in backwards, things don't work.
 
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