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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticed that my chain needed lube, so I flip the bike and start lubing the chain. I had the chain in the middle ring, and I noticed as I shifted the rear derailleur up and down, that the tension arm was allowing the plastic rollers to hit the rear sprockets in low gear. As I moved out onto the smaller gears the clunking stopped. All the pivot points on the derailleur are working. I should mention that it is a Tiagra rear derailleur, with a long arm. While I was looking, I also noticed that the spoke protector is cracked slightly and that the derailleur arm is touching it when in the easy gears.

What do I need to do?
 

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NeoRetroGrouch
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slowmo1 said:
Noticed that my chain needed lube, so I flip the bike and start lubing the chain. I had the chain in the middle ring, and I noticed as I shifted the rear derailleur up and down, that the tension arm was allowing the plastic rollers to hit the rear sprockets in low gear. As I moved out onto the smaller gears the clunking stopped. All the pivot points on the derailleur are working. I should mention that it is a Tiagra rear derailleur, with a long arm. While I was looking, I also noticed that the spoke protector is cracked slightly and that the derailleur arm is touching it when in the easy gears.

What do I need to do?
Maybe take it to a shop??? (Be carefull here. Mis-adjustment of the rear derailleur can cause it to go into the spokes causing sever damage to bike and rider.)

But if not:

Spend some time just shifting it and watching what does what.

Go to http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
Read it and understand it. Then follow it completely, in order.

Note the part about the "B-screw". That is how you move the rear derailleur pulley away from the cogs. (Note - If this is only a problem when upside down, forget it.)

Note the Low Limit Screw. This is where you limit how far the RD can move towards the wheel.

If these are all adjusted correctly and the RD still hits the spoke protector because it sticks out, cut it off.

TF
 

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Larry Lackapants
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Spoke protectors are dull things anyhow. If the limiting screws for your RD are set right,and your derailler hanger is not bent, you don't need a spoke protector at all

Good luck,
br
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
brblue said:
Spoke protectors are dull things anyhow. If the limiting screws for your RD are set right,and your derailler hanger is not bent, you don't need a spoke protector at all

Good luck,
br
I know, I know, but I didn't want to mess with the gear cluster and take it off. Besides, it was barely bigger than the largest gear. As far as I know, the derailleur is fine, I haven't had any difficulty until recently. I'm really not worried about the spoke protector, though. What concerns me is the idler sprockets are touching the gears, mainly in the larger, easier gears. I hadn't noticed this before, and it may go away when I flip the bike back upright. I just wondered if the derailleur had lost some spring tension, or something. I mean, I haven't crashed, or jumped any curbs,......shoot, I really haven't ridden it that much, I am just getting back on after a long winter.
 

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easy problem to fix

On the rear derailleur you have three limit screws: the "L," "H," and "B" screws. Do not touch the "L" or "H" screws. The "B" limit screw is the screw behind the derailleur that most people don't ever notice. Using a flat head screwdriver, screw the B limit all the way clockwise. That will solve your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
marimba_artist said:
On the rear derailleur you have three limit screws: the "L," "H," and "B" screws. Do not touch the "L" or "H" screws. The "B" limit screw is the screw behind the derailleur that most people don't ever notice. Using a flat head screwdriver, screw the B limit all the way clockwise. That will solve your problem.
Ok, I turned the B limit screw all the way, and flipped the bike over. Then I went for a 10-miler and had no shifting problems. I still am going to have to do something about that spoke protector, but it can wait until I take my bike in for the next tuneup. I have no tools, so I can't mess anything up by myself.

Although, I do have a "Letter of the Month" into Bicycling.com, hoping to win that Park rollup tool kit.:D
 

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Larry Lackapants
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By the way, the set up of the distance between RD and cogs may vary in time, if the RD cable housing is cut too short. First, when the housing is new, the RD is pulled away from the cogs and in time the housing gets used to its bent position so the RD could come closer to the sprockets. It may happen that with the chain in the larger sprockets, the RD pulley touches them.
Well there shouldn't be any extreme variations of setup ; don't know if enough to induce a problem like yours.

br
 
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