[saccycling]

I was lubing my chain and when I back pedaled, with the chain on the 17 tooth gear. I heard a clicking sound, when I spun the chain backwards. It only happened on the 17 tooth. I couldn't figure out where the sound was coming from. My cassette was filthy, so I decided to take it off and clean it. Hoping maybe I would find my mystery clicking sound. When I took off the wheel and went to loosen the bolt that holds the cassette on. The bolt was already loose. I've changed many, many cassettes and never had this problem. When I tighten the bolt to put on the cassette on. I tightened until I hear 3 clicks. This always seemed to work in the past. My question is. Am I doing anything wrong ? Am I tightening corectly ? Thanx for your help.

 

[lawrence]

You can tighten it more than 3 clicks. I tighten it until I feel some resistance plus. I use a chain whip to hold the cassette and of course use the specialized socket that's required.

 

[wim]

The 3-click method isn't reliable - it's thrown off badly by how you define the first click, how good your hearing is and what kind of music you got playing how loudly in the shop.

Cassette lock rings need to be very tight - around 40 Nm torque. That's about 30 foot-pounds, so imagine putting a 30-pound weight on a foot-long wrench. The cassette lockring is one of the few threaded entities on a bicycle that's actually difficult to overtighten unless you're a gorilla.

BTW - you dont need to use a chainwhip to tighten a lock ring.

 

[B2]

Don't know about Shimano, but Campy recommends 50Nm on the cassette lockring. That's a bunch! About the same as a bottom bracket. I wouldn't think that "three clicks" would even be 25% of that.

 

[Metaluna]

Also, some cassettes (e.g. Campy Veloce) use resin spacers that compress slightly under torque. If you don't torque the lockring to spec, the spacers won't compress the correct amount, and the spacing of the cogs could be slightly off. This could affect indexing and shifting performance.