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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Time RXS pedals questions

My BDay is coming up and I'm looking for new pedals (and shoes). Last years foray with Shimano spd cleats and Sidi Dominators when sideways. I had problems knee pain or ankle pain (depending on how I positioned my seat).

So this year I want to give it a go again (loved the positive connection to the bike I felt with clipless), except with more adjustable

I seem to be most interested in pedals with 'walkable' cleats. Seems like that's a short list of Time or Shimano. Time's cafe cleats look nice and very functional. I am concerned about the pedals a bit though. They are listed as have +/- 5 degrees of rotational float plust 2.5mm of lateral float. A few questions:

Is that free float, or sping loaded?
Is it adjustable?
Any comments on the lateral float?

How adjustable is the Q-factor??

I figure is T. Boonen uses these, they must be ok for a clyde - I doubt I can put the same amount of force on a pedal as he can!

Thanks for any comments.
 

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RXS comments

I've had the RXS carbon pedals (steel spindle) for about 6 months and so far haven't had any major problems. The rotational float is self-centering (spring loaded), though you don't really feel much spring tension with small angles of float. The float/release tension can be adjusted (I'm not sure if this is true with all models). I believe the q-factor factor can be "adjusted" to one of two settings by reversing the right and left cleats. Lateral float is independent of the q-factor adjustment.

Some comments: the bearings do not seem to be nearly as smooth as the bearings on my old Campy pedals-- consequently, the pedals do not always return to a neutral position after clipping out. Clipping into my left pedal seems to be more difficult than clipping in on the right-- I have no idea why and I can't seem to fix the problem. Otherwise, the pedals have been great. They're light, and just feel "right" for me.
 

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Like supercrank, I've been riding Time RXS carbon pedals for about six months, and I love them. I switched over from Speedplay with unlimited free float. I have a bad left knee (chronic tendonitis if I really push it too hard), so I was worried about limiting my float. But the Speedplays were feeling just a bit too squirrely, so I wanted a self-centering pedal. I did have a physical therapist set me up on my Time pedals to make sure my foot/ankle/knee were properly aligned. So far, so good with the Times. I have felt no need to adjust them from their factory settings.

I still have Speedplays on bike #2, and it seems like the Q factor on the Speedplays is a bit wider than the Times. Funny, but also like supercrank, I also have trouble clipping into my left pedal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In one of the RBR user reviews of the RXS carbon cromo pedal (which is what I'm considering) - the reviewer said that the right pedal wasn't threaded properly (meaning the pedal could unscrew itself durning a ride). Any truth to that? I'd rather not loctite my pedals.

Thanks!
 

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I've never had any troubles with mine unscrewing from the cranks (couple of hundred miles on them). Loctite should not be neccesary.
 

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?????

AJL said:
In one of the RBR user reviews of the RXS carbon cromo pedal (which is what I'm considering) - the reviewer said that the right pedal wasn't threaded properly (meaning the pedal could unscrew itself durning a ride). Any truth to that? I'd rather not loctite my pedals.
Are you talking about the pedal unscrewing from the crank? If so, this makes no sense whatsovever. All cranks are tapped right hand thread for right pedals, left hand thread for left pedals. There is NO WAY the pedal could be threaded wrong, because it couldn't be installed on the crank if this were the case. This is completely confusing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Kerry Irons said:
Are you talking about the pedal unscrewing from the crank? If so, this makes no sense whatsovever. All cranks are tapped right hand thread for right pedals, left hand thread for left pedals. There is NO WAY the pedal could be threaded wrong, because it couldn't be installed on the crank if this were the case. This is completely confusing.
Doh! Good point, I guess the guy that reviewed the pedal may have had a screw loose himself.

Thanks!
 

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Kerry Irons said:
Are you talking about the pedal unscrewing from the crank? If so, this makes no sense whatsovever. All cranks are tapped right hand thread for right pedals, left hand thread for left pedals. There is NO WAY the pedal could be threaded wrong, because it couldn't be installed on the crank if this were the case. This is completely confusing.
No. The right pedal unscrews from itself. Basically, the pedal body is threaded into a "cuff" that contains the bearing. And it *is* possible for this to come loose. I got a pair of RXS pedals, and rode them for one ride, and then tried to unscrew it. It was extremely easy to do -- it had loosened in a single ride.

Now, personally, I don't know that it's a huge deal. I put some blue loctite on the threads, and the problem was solved. I'm not sure why it wasn't done at the factory.

But this problem is real -- and it's not the pedal unscrewing from the crank. Rather, there are two pieces that screw together (one metal, one plastic), with threads that are about 3/4" in diameter, and I have witnessed the problem, though practically I think it's good enough to just keep an eye on it, and if it comes loose, loctite it as I did. It's not going to come loose now unless I really want it to -- and with this design it will be tough for crud to get into the bearing area.
 

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Loctite? On pedals? Wow...that's a new one to me. I usually have a helluva time getting mine off, so I don't really torque them on. Never had one come loose.

I have the RXS Carbon on both my bikes. No problems - love the pedals! As a matter of fact, I'll probably put the ATAC Carbon on my mountain bike the next chance I get. I was a hardcore LOOK guy up to the day I changed over, and now I'll never look back. I don't find the cleats to be terribly comfortable to walk in, but I don't go far in them anyway. Not a "real" issue in my mind. I swore I would never use anything other than LOOK, but I guess never say never...

The reason I changed -- my knees were getting really sore with my A5.1's. Tried all the usual stuff - cleat position and so on, but they still ached. The Time pedals are much more forgiving, although they don't have the SOLID feel the LOOKs did. With that said, I've never popped out accidentally. They're VERY easy to get out of, and fairly easy to get in to. Q-factor is fine. I think I left the release at whatever the factory preset is (I don't remember how to change them. The cleats may not wear as long as others I've had, but the brass portion that clips in is protected, and I guess that is what matters.

Good luck - hope you like them!
 

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The unscrewing problems are NOT talking about the pedal unscrewing from the crank. They are talking about the pedal itself coming apart. Basically, the pedal body unscrews from the axle, and so you're left with the axle and the large bearing sitting on your crank, and the pedal body attached to your cleat.

This is what I'm talking about loctiting. The pedal body is plastic (er, carbon), and the bearing sleeve it goes in is metal, and the two can unscrew on the right pedal. So if this happens (I recommending checking the right pedal fairly regularly) then you can put loctite on the plastic threads. NOT on the axle threads that go into the crank arm -- use grease or anti-seize there.
 
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