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Dan
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Hi I am 51, 6'2 not very flexible but enjoy my cycling. Normally ride 10 - 70 miles.

I currently have a Giant Defy advanced 3 XL. I have tried the Synapse 58" and the size is OK. My question is how would the Domane 5.2 60" compare to the Defy or the Synapse as I may not be able to get a test ride on it but really like the spec and reviews. I know it is Ultegra v 105 but it is the geometry and ride experience I would really appreciate your comments on.

Many thanks
 

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Hi I am 51, 6'2 not very flexible but enjoy my cycling. Normally ride 10 - 70 miles.

I currently have a Giant Defy advanced 3 XL. I have tried the Synapse 58" and the size is OK. My question is how would the Domane 5.2 60" compare to the Defy or the Synapse as I may not be able to get a test ride on it but really like the spec and reviews. I know it is Ultegra v 105 but it is the geometry and ride experience I would really appreciate your comments on.

Many thanks

Disclaimer: I own a Synapse Carbon and love it, so my opinion will be biased. :)

Now that we have that out of the way, DO NOT buy any bike without test riding it first. Test ride them all and buy the one you like the feel of best. And be sure to buy from a bike shop that is willing to spend time fitting you properly - that is, taking you and your new bike, putting it on a trainer, watching you pedal and making adjustments to dial in your fit correctly.
 

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Look at the "Sizing and Fit" section on this page:
Domane 5.2 | Trek Bikes

Pay attention to "Effective Top Tube", "Reach" and "Stack".
Compare these measurements to a similar chart for your current bike and size.

Decided if you want longer/shorter or higher/lower
 

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Look at the "Sizing and Fit" section on this page:
Domane 5.2 | Trek Bikes

Pay attention to "Effective Top Tube", "Reach" and "Stack".
Compare these measurements to a similar chart for your current bike and size.

Decided if you want longer/shorter or higher/lower

Reach and stack are the most important specs. More stack and less reach = more upright position.

Effective top tube is not important as that can be offset by head and seat tube height and angle.

But as I said before, ride them both and decide which you like better from that, not just numbers.
 

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Effective top tube is not important as that can be offset by head and seat tube height and angle.
Come one man. Please know what you're talking about before giving advice.

OP, I was going to take a crack at helping but I didn't see 3 XL on the Defy geo chart. Do you have a XL? Or a copy of the Geo chart showing 3 xl that I seem to have missed.
 

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Right, it does. But what you said was "Effective top tube is not important".

In the grand scheme of things, it isn't. Reach tells you a whole lot more.
 

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In the grand scheme of things, it isn't. Reach tells you a whole lot more.
You really need to stop posting information then actually learning the correct information after the fact. Learn first then give out information.

The effective top tube of a bike absolutely does matter and it is not "offset" by seat and steerer tube angles like you said. It is what it is and angles are part of what makes it what it is, they don't 'offset' it. Reach is important, yes, but a rider still needs to know and understand how much length there is in total other than the reach and how seat angle factors into that because you can only set back/forward a seat so much.
 

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You really need to stop posting information then actually learning the correct information after the fact. Learn first then give out information.
It was more my wording that was the problem. I stand corrected.
 

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I haven't rode either. I'm a Colnago guy. That being said try them out. There's no substitute for riding the bike. Asking a bunch of strangers on a forum who require or prefer different geometries than you or even have different riding styles makes little sense to me.
 

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I haven't rode either. I'm a Colnago guy. That being said try them out. There's no substitute for riding the bike. Asking a bunch of strangers on a forum who require or prefer different geometries than you or even have different riding styles makes little sense to me.
I couldn't agree more. Never buy a bike you haven't test ridden. That's a rule I had to learn the hard way, don't make the same mistake I did.
 

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Well I didn't exactly say that. I bought my C-59 without a test ride and couldn't be happier. I wasn't worried about fit and did enough research that I kind of knew what ride I was getting. Did the same with my Firefly. On high end bikes its not usually possible to test ride and certainly not on a made to order frame. But considering the two bikes being compared a test ride is the prudent way to go. Still might be an issue seeing if the bike shop has frames in your size.

I couldn't agree more. Never buy a bike you haven't test ridden. That's a rule I had to learn the hard way, don't make the same mistake I did.
 

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Having spent time on both I can say they are really different.

You need to test ride them on the roads you will be riding as they ride quite differently.

On smooth roads no big deal. If you ride pot holes and washboard the Cannondale is quite harsh.

Here again you need to test ride on the roads you plan to ride on and determine what works for you.

My buddy test rode the Domane and was ready to buy then saw the Cannondale on sale with DI2 so he bought it without riding it. He loves the DI2 but hates the frame as it rides really harsh for the roads he rides. He is sorry that he made the knee jerk decision without a test ride. It is not fun to see him bounce all over the place and piss and moan. He runs as low a tire pressure as he can to help out best possible but it is what it is for his application.
 

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My buddy test rode the Domane and was ready to buy then saw the Cannondale on sale with DI2 so he bought it without riding it. He loves the DI2 but hates the frame as it rides really harsh for the roads he rides. He is sorry that he made the knee jerk decision without a test ride. It is not fun to see him bounce all over the place and piss and moan. He runs as low a tire pressure as he can to help out best possible but it is what it is for his application.
Are you sure your friend got the Carbon Cannondale Synapse? I've never heard anything like that and everyone and their brother has one.
Maybe his prior bike was ultra plush? It's more more a relative than and absolute thing so maybe that's the deal.
I'm not trying to accuse you or him of making that up or anything but it is highly suspect information (honestly, not offense intended).
 

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Having spent time on both I can say they are really different.

You need to test ride them on the roads you will be riding as they ride quite differently.

On smooth roads no big deal. If you ride pot holes and washboard the Cannondale is quite harsh.

Here again you need to test ride on the roads you plan to ride on and determine what works for you.

My buddy test rode the Domane and was ready to buy then saw the Cannondale on sale with DI2 so he bought it without riding it. He loves the DI2 but hates the frame as it rides really harsh for the roads he rides. He is sorry that he made the knee jerk decision without a test ride. It is not fun to see him bounce all over the place and piss and moan. He runs as low a tire pressure as he can to help out best possible but it is what it is for his application.

Are you sure the difference in harshness is because of the frame? There are other factors that can come into play here. What wheels/tires came with each bike? I'm not saying frame won't make any difference, it just won't be the only difference.

Keep in mind that the Cannondale Synapse Carbon has enough distance between the stays to install 28mm tires. This will help soften the ride.
 

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I am 52, and 6'3". I love my Domane 5.9. I found it as a great deal and bought it intending to flip it. I liked it enough for it to replace my Time VXS as my daily ride.

Sorry I have not riden the Cdale to give you a bike v bike comparison.

If you compare the geometry charts the Domane has a taller stack and shorter reach which should put one in a more upright position.
 

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He's right, you know. Reach does tell you a lot more of what you need to know than effective top tube for the exact reasons he stated.
No one is debating that. Again, what he said was: "Effective top tube is not important as that can be offset by head and seat tube height and angle." and nothing about that is correct and the fact reach is more important doesn't change that.
He's since said his wording could have been better (or however it was put) so it's pretty much a non-topic now.
 
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