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35mph Average
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hi folks is anyone else getting a clunk or bang from the headset area on the new madone frame when they hit pot holes or bumps in the road :confused:
 

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Cycling induced anoesis
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joker said:
hi folks is anyone else getting a clunk or bang from the headset area on the new madone frame when they hit pot holes or bumps in the road :confused:
You might want to post this in the Trek manufacturers forum, but have your LBS check the (carbon) crown race to make sure it's seated properly. It appears to be one piece, but is seperate from the fork crown assembly and if it's not fully seated the fork will bind and it won't be possible to correctly adjust the headset.
 

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improper adjustment...

joker said:
hi folks is anyone else getting a clunk or bang from the headset area on the new madone frame when they hit pot holes or bumps in the road :confused:
It seems that some shop mechanics have stil not learned how to adjust an integrated headset. Most require a significant torque on the top cap bolt to adequately preload the bearings. With the stem clamp bolt loose, tighten the top cap until you feel exxcessive drag as fork is turned, then back the bolt up 1/8-1/4 turn, just enough to eliminate the drag. Then retighten the stem clamp bolts. As with any threadless system, there must be a small gap between the steering tube and top of the stem (or the spacer on top of the stem). The headset top section must also have a very small gap with the head tube. If the top section of the headset touches the head tube, you'll never be able to adjust the bearings.

In defense of the shop mechanic though, a bike often needs a recheck after it been ridden the first time. Things settle in and the adjustment can change, even in the first few miles.
 

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Never DNF
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Thanks for the tip, fixed my problem

C-40 said:
It seems that some shop mechanics have stil not learned how to adjust an integrated headset. Most require a significant torque on the top cap bolt to adequately preload the bearings. With the stem clamp bolt loose, tighten the top cap until you feel exxcessive drag as fork is turned, then back the bolt up 1/8-1/4 turn, just enough to eliminate the drag. Then retighten the stem clamp bolts. As with any threadless system, there must be a small gap between the steering tube and top of the stem (or the spacer on top of the stem). The headset top section must also have a very small gap with the head tube. If the top section of the headset touches the head tube, you'll never be able to adjust the bearings..
I recently installed a new narrow bottom headset spacer on my 2008 Madone 5.5 - after this apparently simple job there was play in the headset, couldn't figure it out - until I found this thread, as you say - it's simple, tighten the topcap first, then the stem, works a treat, many thanks for this, from Spring in New Zealand...
 
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