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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For all you other losers out there riding disc brakes on your road bike, or cool guys doing it on your cross bike, who has ordered up the TRP HY/RD brake set? I have a set coming. Ordered a 160 front/140 rear setup.
 

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OP, how are you liking your new brakes? I've also ordered 160F and 140R but was thinking if I should up the front to 180 instead.

I'm still a week away from being able to test them.
 

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I have a set going on my Ti Rove.
I hope to be able to give some feedback next week. (Although really, discs aren't going to be a plus until we get some rain... so as much as I'd like to test out more thoroughly, I hope the rain holds off until Halloween, like it always does in the PacNW)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I still have not put mine on the bike. I have been waiting for some wheels to come in so I can do everything at once but it looks like those wheels are not coming in any time soon. Looking at a different wheel option and hope to have everything done in a few weeks.
 

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I have ridden about 1,000km on them and they are great, a big difference between the cable only. i am keen to see what the differences are with the sram and the shimano about to come on line.

they have made a huge difference in long wet downhill rides, and the modulation is signifcnatly different (better)
 

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bob.satan, are you using Shimano, SRAM, or Campy brake levers? I'm curious about this bit mentioned in BikeRadar's review:

Lever feel is very good but lever throw is unfortunately longer than we'd prefer. Larrabee told BikeRadar that the company is investigating future modifications to the mechanical portion of the HY/RD but for now, it is what it is – and the problem will be exacerbated for riders planning to pair these with Campagnolo or older SRAM levers. Overcharging the fluid reservoir helps but it's a tricky (and potentially messy) proposition that we don't recommend to casual users.
Emphasis mine. I wonder what they meant by "older levers"?

I assumed that the lever throw was going to be controlled by the barrel adjuster as shown in the installation video.
 

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I have been using a set on a Ridley X-Fire for a few months. Better modulation than the Hayes...which I thought were better than BB7s....using Ultegra levers.
genux....by "older levers" they meant that SRAM has changed the pull ratio on the newer levers. It may..or may not be fine....I'd say it probably will be.

Now I just want to find which Shimano pads are compatible. I know it's not the newer 785/985 pads....
 

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Ok. Well, I'll find out by next week just how much of an issue this is going to be. I've just gotten used to the SRAM Rival + BB7 "feel" of the brakes pretty much being off or on with a fair amount of lever throw — I prefer the brakes engaging sooner than later.
 

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Ok. Well, I'll find out by next week just how much of an issue this is going to be. I've just gotten used to the SRAM Rival + BB7 "feel" of the brakes pretty much being off or on with a fair amount of lever throw — I prefer the brakes engaging sooner than later.
Take a look at the service bulletin for these brakes on the TRP site.
You may have trouble with the sooner than later lever feel....or you may not.
Most levers are designed to have their best power ratio at about half way in....
The Ultegra 6700 ....when following the service bulletin...fall in this category.

And with the Road BB7s...I had the same off/on- long throw feel with Ultegra levers. I actually prefer the MTB BB7s with Ultegra levers (which a lot of tandem folks swear by). The Hayes caliper / 6700 combo was firmer and not as much on/off....but required a little more finger pressure to stop.
 

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I'm considering these for a disc wet weather build that will have ST6800 levers - does anyone have an idea if the 6800 levers are considered long throw? Does the 6800 reach adjustability add clearance over the 6700 or just reduce clearance for smaller hands? I see that the 6800 levers have a dual pivot system which is supposed to increase power but wonder if it will do that at the expense of adequate ratio to work well with these brakes and not have the levers hitting the bars on a full panic stop.

Another review I read complained about wet stopping power for these which I was quite surprised about - anyone experiencing this after extended use?
 

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I don't have Shimano levers, so I can't comment on them. My SRAM Rival and Force levers have long throw (even with compressionless brake cable housing), but I've somewhat gotten used to them already. I just grab harder when necessary.

Regarding wet stopping power: there were only two occasions I've used the Hy/Rds in very wet conditions.

1. During Bike MS: Waves to Wine in NorCal. That was a non-stop downpour of more than 3 hours on Stinson Beach along Highway 1. Many road riders were either locking up their wheels and skidding or experiencing minor brake fade. I found that my stopping power did decrease, but I didn't notice brake fade at all. However, I practically ate through the remainder of the brake pads by the end of the century ride.

2. Last weekend, when I parked my bike near a water sprinkler. My bike was drenched and had to brake much earlier to dump speed before entering sharp turns and descents. It took several minutes for the pads to get all the water out, but after that things were just like normal, dry situations.

I've only used these brakes this summer, and it's the first time I've used disc brakes. I know the saying is that disc brakes are consistent regardless of the conditions, but my experience tells me that there will be some loss of braking power/reliability during very wet conditions (especially in situations like non-stop rain).

The only other time I've used regular rim brakes on a wet day was during a 1.4-mile downhill — definitely don't want to relive that again as my brakes were hardly slowing me down. I'm not gonna be a daredevil with the disc brakes, but the Hy/Rds always kept me within my comfort zone.
 

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have TRP hy/rd on one bike, spyre on the other ------------ huge improvement over bb7, no comparison. squeak and whining be gone! power is great, adjustibility fantastic. even and lightweight. no turning back, no desire for shimano or sram system overhaul.

have them, however with 6600 and 6700 levers. 6800 levers should work well w/no problem...
 

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It seems like the "long throw" is also shared by others even on Shimano levers. See the comments in this Bikerumor article.

I managed to fix mine somewhat by following TRP's tips on topping off the reservoir as well as using compressionless cable housing (chose Yokozuna). There's still some travel, but not as bad as before. It also helps that TRP uploaded a video that shows how to bleed/top off the reservoir.

I've worn through my brake pads at this point, getting about 2,000 miles. Trying out different pads this time.
 

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have TRP hy/rd on one bike, spyre on the other ------------ huge improvement over bb7, no comparison. squeak and whining be gone! power is great, adjustibility fantastic. even and lightweight. no turning back, no desire for shimano or sram system overhaul.

have them, however with 6600 and 6700 levers. 6800 levers should work well w/no problem...
I'm thinking of putting either the spyre or Hy/rd on my new Crockett. My experience with BB7s is that they tend to need to be repositioned every time you remove the wheel and reinstall it, as they'll rub and squeek if you don't.

Are the TRP solutions less prone to this? Will the Hy/rd automatically compensate for small position changes? Are the Hy/rd noticeably better than the Spyres?
 

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I'm thinking of putting either the spyre or Hy/rd on my new Crockett. My experience with BB7s is that they tend to need to be repositioned every time you remove the wheel and reinstall it, as they'll rub and squeek if you don't.

Are the TRP solutions less prone to this? Will the Hy/rd automatically compensate for small position changes? Are the Hy/rd noticeably better than the Spyres?
spyres actually work really well, have ones on my last poprad and was very happy with them. they aren't quite as powerful as the hyrd's but bb7's don't come close. I still have one on a front only Lemond Ti bike conversion, it works very well.

I would still pay the extra for the best stoppage possible in the HyRd's as they are self adjusting. pull it out, put it back in, no problem.
 

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I'm thinking of putting either the spyre or Hy/rd on my new Crockett. My experience with BB7s is that they tend to need to be repositioned every time you remove the wheel and reinstall it, as they'll rub and squeek if you don't.

Are the TRP solutions less prone to this? Will the Hy/rd automatically compensate for small position changes? Are the Hy/rd noticeably better than the Spyres?
The Hy/Rds I have on now compensate for pad wear. The first set I had, purchased late last year, didn't seem to be working that well in that regard. Even after following all of TRP's suggestions (good compressionless brake housing, re-bleeding the brakes, topping off the reservoir, etc), the brake lever would feel "spongy" over time.

They finally had me return it so they could inspect it, and the replacement they sent me supposedly has a redesigned gasket that fixes this (refer to this thread for other people's experiences). I've put on over 1,000 miles since receiving the replacement and brake lever throw has been consistent throughout — no messing with the barrel adjuster unlike before.

When reinstalling the wheel, I press the brakes a couple of times to let the calipers adjust themselves properly. They seem to set all right after that with no rubbing.

I'm extremely satisfied with the Hy/Rds now. They're not as good as the full-hydraulic ones like that of Shimano's BR-R785 or SRAM's HydroR, but they're pretty damn good for mechanical-hydraulic hybrids.
 
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