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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Backstory: I moronically allowed latex to eat away at my rear rim's valve hole. How? Running a Kinlin XC279 tubeless, and one day used rubber latex around the valve stem hoping to get a tighter seal because of air loss around the valve stem. Fast forward a year or so: latex ate away a little bit of alloy and now the valve stem hole isn't as tight as before.

I'm still running a Sector 28 tubeless and the valve stem seeps sealant. A very tiny amount, but it's there and I see it and it has me looking back at the Sector to see if it's low/stop to thumb pressure check. Case of IF not WHEN it just gives up.

This wheelset will become my backup/beater/winter set & in the meantime I'll make it a tubed setup. Read way too much about 23c vs 25c vs 28c. Read Velonews. Read this forum. Rollingresistance.com and a few other sites that made my eyes glaze over. Fun stuff.

Which would you recommend based on my needs vs wants: roads are chipseal or broken pavement or just old rural roads. I weigh 165 pounds geared up. Use the road bike for endurance mtb training. All solo training. Was running Sector 28 at about 80psi rear and 75psi front. Wasn't too keen on the handling especially on fast sweeping rough turns. Maybe some squish?

Choices for tubed setup on my 23mm wide rim: leaning toward GP4000S II in a 25c or 28c for about $84 a pair......or Specialized S Works Turbo in 26c or 28c for about $58 each.

Thanks.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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For training? I'd go GP 4 Seasons or something like that. More durable than a GP4000. Pressure sounds fine to me, I weigh 175ish on the bike and use 65/75 on 28mm tires, I have Bontrager R3 32mm on my cx bike for riding on the road and inflate them to 45/55. I don't think those tires are 'squishing' on you, they're just not hard as a rock. They have much better traction at the pressure you're using now that if you inflated them to 100 or higher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah, forgot about that great tire! Thanks. My Scott Addict 15 fits a Sector 28 no problem. I'm gonna go on a limb and say a GP4Season in 28 will fit, too.
From my original post would you go 28 over 25c?

For training? I'd go GP 4 Seasons or something like that. More durable than a GP4000. Pressure sounds fine to me, I weigh 175ish on the bike and use 65/75 on 28mm tires, I have Bontrager R3 32mm on my cx bike for riding on the road and inflate them to 45/55. I don't think those tires are 'squishing' on you, they're just not hard as a rock. They have much better traction at the pressure you're using now that if you inflated them to 100 or higher.
 

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I'm running the Specialized turbo pro 28 tires on my rain trainer Surly cross check. They measure just over 30MM on a set of belgium+ rims, and ride really nice, conti 4 season tires in a 25 or 28 would also be a good choice. I just rode the specialized tires today @ 70F/75R with normal tubes today and they ride nice, I'm similar weight to you probably a little heavier. I've put quite a few miles on these tires so far and have had one flat from a small piece of metal, perhaps a car tire cord.
Adam
 

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changingleaf
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If you have air or sealant leaking out of the valve area on your tubeless setup that means that there is a either a hole in your tape or it has bunched up somewhere allowing air to get underneath. It is a very very common misconception that the valve seat is the problem. Look at your setup and see that the valve does not seal the outside of the rim. So, any leak inside the rim will travel through the cavity of the rim and out the biggest hole - which is the valve area. The valve stem stopper itself seals extremely well on the inside of the rim. The air-pressure alone is more than enough to create a tight seal. So take a look at the tape in your rim. If the tire bead does not sit on it all the way around on both sides, or it has a hole or has lifted up somewhere then air is getting around it causing your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. My issue born of stupidity is the latex (see first post, it was an experiment that didn't pan out) ate away at the rim area around the valve stem hole. There's the hole....and then there's an oblong "hole" leading from the valve stem area. No airtight seal around plunger. I have since retaped it twice over the valve stem hole and made the X in the tape as small as possible, then gently pushed stem through. Sealed tire and fingers crossed the sealant coagulated the tape & oblong hole area. So far so good.
The wheels are old. Many miles of winter sand, grime and dirt. Sidewalls not looking the best. Been a great wheelset but the tubeless hole mishap is another step toward this wheel becoming a tubed setup/trainer wheel/winter beater set/spare.

If you have air or sealant leaking out of the valve area on your tubeless setup that means that there is a either a hole in your tape or it has bunched up somewhere allowing air to get underneath. It is a very very common misconception that the valve seat is the problem. Look at your setup and see that the valve does not seal the outside of the rim. So, any leak inside the rim will travel through the cavity of the rim and out the biggest hole - which is the valve area. The valve stem stopper itself seals extremely well on the inside of the rim. The air-pressure alone is more than enough to create a tight seal. So take a look at the tape in your rim. If the tire bead does not sit on it all the way around on both sides, or it has a hole or has lifted up somewhere then air is getting around it causing your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Didn't use a sealant. Or rather I should clarify: the hole was caused by latex rubber around the valve stem hoping to get a super tight fit around the valve stem to prevent long term leakage. It was over a year ago. A DIY experiment that bit me.
I believe some latex-based sealants warn of long-term use with certain alloy rims. My latex ring was a super concentrate of that "warning" in one spot. Burned through like acid!
What sealant were you using? Post a picture.
 
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