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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any creative ideas for removing a Schwalbe S-One tire from an American Classic 101 rim? The rim has a "bead barb" (https://amclassic.com/index.php/rims/101-series-disc-tubeless-rims.html) that is making it impossible to get the tire bead out and off. I am completely unable to push the bead back down into the channel.

Anyone else had this issue? set up with 2 layers of Stan's tape
 

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changingleaf
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Yes, this can happen with tubeless tires. Even one layer of tape going to cause this issue. Not only does the AC 101 rim have a a substantial bead lock (barb) it also has a much larger bead diameter than all other rim except for Stan's. This makes these rims great for tubeless cyclocross, but very difficult to change tires. I recommend getting a second pair of hands on that to help you get it off and then not using that tire again. From my experience the only tubeless ready tires that are not too tight on these rims are Specialized 2-bliss tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the tip. I'll try the 2bliss tires next time. A shame because I bought these rims thinking I'd be able to swap tubeless tires for cross races, oh well! I selected the rims specifically because I've found that TNT tires burp somewhat easily on my Pacenti SL25 rims, so figured the bead barb would make for a better low pressure tubeless cyclocross experience.

I don't have a vice but I think I'll try using the park tool repair stand's seatpost clamp to hold the tire while I wrestle it off the rim. Seems vice-like enough, will probably hold more firmly than my hands or my fiance's.
 

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The work stand clamp may work to pop one bead loose. For the other side, lay part of rim/tire flat on the edge of a work bench. Use a smooth, blunt implement to push down on the tire near the bead to dislodge it. Something like a wooden spoon with the handle at 3 o'clock should work.
 

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Schwalbe recommends jamming something in between the rim sidewall and tire bead, and then twisting, to pry the bead loose. Some implement halfway between a flat head screwdriver and a small putty knife would be ideal. Never had cause to try it, but they have. According to them, the standard "smash it with your thumbs" technique is actually counterproductive. Not sure why.

Surprising that you would have had burping problems on your SL25s. Schwalbe, Hutchinson, Maxxis, and Specialized tubeless tires have all worked on them nearly flawlessly in our experience. Two wraps of a Stan's tape or equivalent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Schwalbe recommends jamming something in between the rim sidewall and tire bead, and then twisting, to pry the bead loose. Some implement halfway between a flat head screwdriver and a small putty knife would be ideal. Never had cause to try it, but they have. According to them, the standard "smash it with your thumbs" technique is actually counterproductive. Not sure why.

Surprising that you would have had burping problems on your SL25s. Schwalbe, Hutchinson, Maxxis, and Specialized tubeless tires have all worked on them nearly flawlessly in our experience. Two wraps of a Stan's tape or equivalent.
Thanks for the tip. I tried a metal screwdriver but started to fear for my rims and went easy...do you have a particular tool in mind (that I can buy)?

The burping is probably mostly attributable to my poor technique (can you really avoid a burp if you're hitting rocks sideways and the tires aren't that large?) and trying to go too low with the pressures. But I do think the bead barb would help.
 

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No off the shelf tool in mind, sorry. I'd think a big screwdriver could do it fine. Just be careful. The guy at Schwalbe (nice, knowledgeable guy) said "something like a sharpened tire lever would work great." So there's that.

We did torture testing pretty far beyond what you'd expect to see even in an inelegantly ridden cross race. I remember doing my first race after last year's testing and being like "oh wow, this is a walk in the park compared to what we've been doing." Depending on your size, you may need a minimum of 25f/28r, but we have so many people on SL25s tell us they simply can't believe how well tires stay on without burping.
 

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changingleaf
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I've had to use a screwdriver to get a Hutchinson tire off of a Stan's rim. It only scratched the rim a little, but be careful with the tire bead. The AC rim will be even harder to remove the tire from because of the bead lock. When I got a Hutchinson locked onto the AC rim a second pair of hands was needed to push the tire to the center. One set pushing with thumbs, and the other pulling.

The bead lock is definitely superior to a flat surface for low pressure cross racing, but the AC rims bead diameter is too large for anything but 2bliss or tube type tires and Standard UST type rims use a bead diameter that's too small for aggressive use so the barb on those rims doesn't lock the rim as well. The SL25 and Hed Belgium plus just use a wide flat surface that makes the tire bead act like an o-ring on the rim. They are fine for most conditions, but racing is unpredictable and running an extra psi or two is necessary in my opinion.
 

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The work stand clamp may work to pop one bead loose. For the other side, lay part of rim/tire flat on the edge of a work bench. Use a smooth, blunt implement to push down on the tire near the bead to dislodge it. Something like a wooden spoon with the handle at 3 o'clock should work.
Or consider a large enough C-clamp. It would press on the tire sidewall and the opposite rim brake track but maybe it couldn't get enough purchase on the bead. Look around the shop and see what tools come to hand that would be easy on the aluminum rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tried to remove them again last night using a c-clamp on the tire. Apparently caused a hole in the tire; had to use backup wheel to ride to work.

If I can't get the tire off to patch the sidewall hole that I apparently created while trying to get it off the rim, I might just cut this tire off the rim...SMH

Going to order some "2Bliss" tires and hope for the best. Thanks for all the insight. Especially useful to hear from people who know about this exact rim/tire combo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
VICTORY IS OURS!!!

Last night I finally had time to try the park tool stand. Turns out it is perfect for this task.

I wasn't able to get pictures because I didn't have time (trying to unmount and remount 4 tubeless tires, swap rotors, align calipers on a work night...) but I'll try to describe it because I think that this method is potentially the most effective method that is least likely to damage your nice rims and tires.

Requires: park tool repair stand with rubber clamp cover.

  1. Deflate tire
  2. Rotate stand so that clamp is horizontal (if bike was in it clamped by seat tube, top tube would be vertical)
  3. Clamp down on tire as close as possible to rim
  4. Tighten clamp until it is completely closed using screw/crank arm
  5. Slowly apply pressure to opposite side of wheel from clamp, pushing down towards floor, until bead pops off towards inside of rim. You will likely feel like you are overdoing it, but it will eventually come off with a loud pop.
  6. For second bead, flip the wheel and do the same. Be sure to make sure the clamp is as close to the rim as possible.

Tire did not tear and works fine.

Sorry for the lack of good illustration (maybe I'll try to get pictures later), but I implore anyone who's have issues to use this method! It was 100000000% easier than ruining my thumbs and the wheels seem fine. The shape of the park tool clamp, the fact that it's covered in rubber, and the fact that it can be adjusted to completely clamp down are key.

Looking forward to running my tires burp-free at 14psi this weekend in the mud! :)
 
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