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I'm about to glue down a new set of tubulars, they're stretching out right now. I was wondering how people have faired with tubular tapes vs. the traditional gluing them down. Pros/Cons and horror stories would be appreciated.
 

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wow, that's a lot of reading. I was kind of thinking the same thing about the tubie tape, that it doesn't hold as well at the lower PSI. And I really liked you idea of taping off the breaking surface. thanks!!
 

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Good luck.

I haven't seen any true horror stories, but I do see a few rolled tires every year even in our relatively small market. They all involved either Tufo tape or CF rims and a "road" style glue job (i.e. very little glue involved).
 

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Glue and tape ala Cyclocrossworld style and brand. Look in the tire/glue section and find their tape, then follow their recommended approach.
 

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taob said:
Glue and tape ala Cyclocrossworld style and brand. Look in the tire/glue section and find their tape, then follow their recommended approach.
Seems like adding a messy weak link to me. Its also been posted somewhere around here that according to first-hand inspection, their claim that every Euro pro uses this method is exaggerated. YMMV, but I don't think it is necessary or desirabe.
 

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I have used

Stu (cxworlds) method for years
Mastik Glue and Tape
anybody who thinks there may be a weak link is welcome to come over and try and remove any of my 2 plus year old gluings

you will hurt your thumbs

the tape fills in some spots and has reenforcing webbing, it ain't going anywhere

avoid using tufo tape
 

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I'll defer to you on the strength of the Mastik glue.

Seems like the tape would add hassle to tire removal and re-install(?) Two years in a row I have had to remove tires mid season due to a spoke failure (never again will I build tubular wheels with alloy nipples).
 

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it would

PeanutButterBreath said:
I'll defer to you on the strength of the Mastik glue.

Seems like the tape would add hassle to tire removal and re-install(?) Two years in a row I have had to remove tires mid season due to a spoke failure (never again will I build tubular wheels with alloy nipples).
as using the tape makes the tire a b!tch to remove and if you taped the whole rim, you'd have to cut away a section to get to the nipple

so yes, I wouldn't suggest it if you change your tubs often

if your #1 objective is keeping the tire on it is the way to go

I use a quik stik to help me remove them
 

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How thick/soft is the Mastik tape? I've scrapped off that gummy Tufo crap and while I can see how it would help fit a CX width tire to a typical rim, its not necessarily how I would want to fill that gap.

I usually just build up my glue so that there is no room for a gap, at which point it seems like the tape can't really do much. I.e. even if it is stronger than the glue, the glue is still there acting as the weakest link. Thus my sense that it is more trouble that it is worth.

But I'm interested to hear otherwise. For instance, I could see a somewhat flexible layer allowing the tire a little extra give before the joint fails.
 

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I used the crazyfast.blog method and am very happy with it. The tape+glue seems like suspenders and a belt (or boxers + briefs) to me. Does it help? Probably, but if you do a good glue job, you shouldn't roll the tire. The taping of the sidewalls is very helpful, albeit it slightly slow and tedious to put on and remove (definitely worth the effort, just mildly annoying). I removed a tire to relace the wheel and I did the hairdryer/tire lever method. It still wasn't

The critical thing is coating out to the edge of the rim and making sure the base tape is soaked (ie - full uniform glue coloring including the edges).

Enjoy - it gets faster after the first 2!

PS - don't wear surgical gloves to mount the tire, they'll stick and tear into the glue (ask me why I know that).
 

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Synthetic gloves work much better. Since I work in a hosp lab I have a wide variety to choose from. FWIW and I'm no expert, I used Mastik 1 on my 1st pr of tubies that I did and the probably less than expert job lasted 2 seasons...
 

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Glue. Tape is for presents!

If the glue job was properly done, tape isn't needed IMHO.

Is it wrong I am already getting excited for 09-10 cross season (then I don't want to be right). :)
 

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the mastik tape

PeanutButterBreath said:
How thick/soft is the Mastik tape? I've scrapped off that gummy Tufo crap and while I can see how it would help fit a CX width tire to a typical rim, its not necessarily how I would want to fill that gap.

I usually just build up my glue so that there is no room for a gap, at which point it seems like the tape can't really do much. I.e. even if it is stronger than the glue, the glue is still there acting as the weakest link. Thus my sense that it is more trouble that it is worth.

But I'm interested to hear otherwise. For instance, I could see a somewhat flexible layer allowing the tire a little extra give before the joint fails.
is thin, much thinner than the tufo tape. basically what it does is replace those extra glue layers one puts on the rim. So you put a single glue layer on the rim, as it gets tacky, apply the tape. So you have sticky meets sticky. The webbing in the tape distributes forces more evenly. So after getting the base tape well prepped, one light coat of glue on the tire, pull the tape backing, a few dabs of glue onto the tape and mount. I'm over 200 lbs and probably NOT the smoothest rider. I've never had an issue
 

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Stu cyclocross method is complete garbage. It ruined an awesome pair of wheels for me. I had to scrap some lovely Ambosios as a result of the tape not coming off the rim. Good for CX racing, but not for changing tires or re-gluing if the base tape comes undone.

Use Mastik 1 and your done. Think Johnny Cochran voice
 

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yeah - Stu's tape works. It won't come off. And then again it won't come off.

Neither will a proper Mastik1 glue job. Do it right and it won't roll. And when it comes time to replace the tubular, you can still get it off, albeit with a huge headache, but less of a mess and less of a ruined tire/rim than with the tape.

Mastik 1 and Done... just do it right...
 

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Gotta keep chiming in here. I'm going on 6+ years of tape...both's kinds of tufo, Stu's and jantex (pretty much the same thing as Stu's). I currently prefer the jantex as it can be had for a song on some uk websites. Only rolled one tire on 10 sets of wheels. Im' pretty sure I would have rolled it glued or taped, the way I side loaded it. That being said, I've also glued hundreds and hundreds of tubbies over the years. I've rolled two of those (so statistically speaking, glue's doing better), but only in cross races and again, in extreme circumstances.

In short, Use Tape if:
1) you, like me, are an over the hill father of several young children, you and your spouse both work and what few spare moments you have can't be spent screwing around with a pot of mastik.I can glue/tape up a set of race ready wheels/tires in 20 minutes.

2) as previously stated, you don't remove tires all that often. Tape/glue sticks....REALLY sticks. For those of you who have first hand experience w/ rolling a tape job, all I gotta say is "what did you do wrong?" ps. a heat gun really speeds the process of tape removal.

Use Glue if:
1) none of the above apply...and if you want to practice and live in norcal, I've got several sets you can get started on...I'll supply the glue.
 

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I used the glueing method described in the links above with the Mastik glue last season. It took me 10-15 minutes a tire to get them off to put road tubes back on this spring. The tires will not roll with glue if done properly. I could not believe how stuck those tires were on my wheels. I ordered the Mastik tape from cyclocrossworld.com and never used it.
 
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