Seems like adding a messy weak link to me. Its also been posted somewhere around here that according to first-hand inspection, their claim that every Euro pro uses this method is exaggerated. YMMV, but I don't think it is necessary or desirabe.taob said:Glue and tape ala Cyclocrossworld style and brand. Look in the tire/glue section and find their tape, then follow their recommended approach.
as using the tape makes the tire a b!tch to remove and if you taped the whole rim, you'd have to cut away a section to get to the nipplePeanutButterBreath said:I'll defer to you on the strength of the Mastik glue.
Seems like the tape would add hassle to tire removal and re-install(?) Two years in a row I have had to remove tires mid season due to a spoke failure (never again will I build tubular wheels with alloy nipples).
is thin, much thinner than the tufo tape. basically what it does is replace those extra glue layers one puts on the rim. So you put a single glue layer on the rim, as it gets tacky, apply the tape. So you have sticky meets sticky. The webbing in the tape distributes forces more evenly. So after getting the base tape well prepped, one light coat of glue on the tire, pull the tape backing, a few dabs of glue onto the tape and mount. I'm over 200 lbs and probably NOT the smoothest rider. I've never had an issuePeanutButterBreath said:How thick/soft is the Mastik tape? I've scrapped off that gummy Tufo crap and while I can see how it would help fit a CX width tire to a typical rim, its not necessarily how I would want to fill that gap.
I usually just build up my glue so that there is no room for a gap, at which point it seems like the tape can't really do much. I.e. even if it is stronger than the glue, the glue is still there acting as the weakest link. Thus my sense that it is more trouble that it is worth.
But I'm interested to hear otherwise. For instance, I could see a somewhat flexible layer allowing the tire a little extra give before the joint fails.