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Hi there guys, Just finished putting my fully restored Road bike together..

And I need help tuning my rear derailler.

The rear derailler is RECORD 10s rear der. short cage 2008.
Ergo Red Levers, 11-25 10s sprockets.

I been following the instructions on the Manual. Its does'nt seem to function the way it should. Also, it seem to make a rattling noise. keeps skipping. :confused:

Everything is brand new, even the wires.

I don't want to bring to the shop as I have no time and I need to learn to do it myself with the help with u guys...

Thanks guys
 

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Is the lower pulley wheel on the rear der turning in the right direction, I think clockwise? Is the cassette fully seated on the wheel? How about the chain length - is it too long ?
 

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Make sure the cable is routed correctly thru the derailleur clamping bolt. It's got to be a straight pull. The first time I did it, I had it wrapped somewhat around the bolt. Rookie move and a Fail. The shop mech showed me the err of my ways.
 

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Assuming you have the chain laced properly and the chain is the right length, it should be a matter of adjusting your limiter screws and making sure the der. is not bent. Make sure you stretch the cables.

Campy is very simple to set up and very reliable.
 

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I have nothing more to add, but will second the stretching of the cable. Every time I installed new cables on my bikes, I'd work on getting the rear derailleur working correctly and then it would go to crap.

Make sure that there isn't any slack in the cable when the chain is on the smallest cog. Same goes for the FD when the chain is on the small ring. It really does make a difference if the cable stretches at all.
 

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fabsroman said:
I have nothing more to add, but will second the stretching of the cable. Every time I installed new cables on my bikes, I'd work on getting the rear derailleur working correctly and then it would go to crap.

Make sure that there isn't any slack in the cable when the chain is on the smallest cog. Same goes for the FD when the chain is on the small ring. It really does make a difference if the cable stretches at all.
Then again...once cables have stretched I've found my Chorus setup to be nearly maintenance-free. Tweak the barrel adjuster once overy blue moon and that's about it. My Y2k group still shifts like it was new.
 

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Agreed. I have about 4,000+ miles on a 2007 Record group and it shifts just fine with absolutely no maintenance other than a chain swap because I took out the wrong pin by accident. Once the rear derailleur is adjusted properly, I think any shifting problem down the road is either a worn cassette or worn chain.
 

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Okay, I had that problem initially too. Make sure that the thumb shifter has been depressed as far as it can go. If you miss a single click, then you won't be able to get it to the largest, which I assume is what you mean by highest, cog. Also, if there is any slack in the cable, you will not be able to get it to the largest cog. The cable needs to be really tight, or your first click will only be used to get rid of the cable slack instead of moving the derailleur. Each click has to result in a shift, or you will be SOL and you have to make sure that the thumb shifter has no more clicks on it and the chain is on the smallest cog when you take the slack out of the cable. With the chain on the smallest cog, I use a pair of pliers to pull the cable tight as I tighten the nut that holds the cable in place.

As stated above, if your cable stretches after you install it, then you will have to do this all over again to make sure there is no slack. Essentially, if there is slack in the cable when the chain is on the smallest cog, you will have a hard time getting it to shift to the largest cog.
 

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fabsroman said:
Okay, I had that problem initially too. Make sure that the thumb shifter has been depressed as far as it can go. If you miss a single click, then you won't be able to get it to the largest, which I assume is what you mean by highest, cog. Also, if there is any slack in the cable, you will not be able to get it to the largest cog. The cable needs to be really tight, or your first click will only be used to get rid of the cable slack instead of moving the derailleur. Each click has to result in a shift, or you will be SOL and you have to make sure that the thumb shifter has no more clicks on it and the chain is on the smallest cog when you take the slack out of the cable. With the chain on the smallest cog, I use a pair of pliers to pull the cable tight as I tighten the nut that holds the cable in place.

As stated above, if your cable stretches after you install it, then you will have to do this all over again to make sure there is no slack. Essentially, if there is slack in the cable when the chain is on the smallest cog, you will have a hard time getting it to shift to the largest cog.
Should the chain on the small chainring as well or it doesn't matter as long as it's the smallest cog ?
 

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What is your Record brake question? LOL
 

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It isn't properly centered. Take a 13 mm cone wrench, or other similar thin wrench and center the brake by using the wrench on the nut on the front of the brakes. Just rotate the calipers to the left without loosening the nut in the rear (i.e., the nut that goes inside the fork). I run into this problem once in a while on my bikes. At first, it was a PITA because I didn't have the 13 mm cone wrench or another thin wrench. So, I went out and bought two sets of cone wrenchs. Now, no problem. By the way, I think the rear brake uses a 15mm wrench instead of the 13mm size on the front brake. The same principle applies for centering both the front and rear brake calipers.
 

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You are welcome.

Nice looking bike. Over the past 2 years I have built up 5 bikes, 4 with Record and 1 with Veloce/Centaur, so I know a couple of tricks to get them to work well.

Right now, I just finished building Zipp 303 and Zipp 404 tubular front wheels on Tune hubs laced radially in 24 and 18 holes respectively, and I am working on building a Zipp 303 rear on a Tune hub and rebuilding a Zipp 404 rear on a Tune hub because it had too much spoke windup that I couldn't correct. After that, I ordered the Sapim spokes on Thursday to finish off the 808 rims I have sitting in the garage.

Once I'm done building the wheels, I won't have much bike work to do anymore other than maintenance, and that is mostly just chain lube and drivetrain cleaning. I guess I can spend the extra time riding the bikes more.
 
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