Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm trying to swap my new Ultegra 10 components with Dura Ace 10 & I'm a little confused. The U10 & DA crankarm diagrams show a cap that screws into left crank arm. With DA it's metal & with the U10 it seems to be a black plastic which seems a little strange, but I guess it's not doing much. Anyway, using the TL/FC16 tool this sucker won't budge one bit (so much for the torque spec of 13 in lbs). Any ideas on how to get this thing moving? As always, thanks in advance for you suggestions!
 

·
No team-cest unless 8+!
Joined
·
7,287 Posts
bent_spoke said:
Hi, I'm trying to swap my new Ultegra 10 components with Dura Ace 10 & I'm a little confused. The U10 & DA crankarm diagrams show a cap that screws into left crank arm. With DA it's metal & with the U10 it seems to be a black plastic which seems a little strange, but I guess it's not doing much. Anyway, using the TL/FC16 tool this sucker won't budge one bit (so much for the torque spec of 13 in lbs). Any ideas on how to get this thing moving? As always, thanks in advance for you suggestions!
didja loosen the pinch bolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
All you need to do is loosen the pinch bolts and then loosen the inner cap on the non-driveside crankarm. It's not reverse-threaded or anything - just turn it to the left to remove it. Then, all you'll need to do is pull the crankarm off the spindle. If it's not coming loose, you might have other problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,555 Posts
stopper plate comes into play or how to open that up. Any ideas?
Stopper plate is supposed to keep the left crankarm from falling off if the pinch bolts come loose, so it needs to be moved out of the way. The inner pinch bolt (closest to the bottom bracket) goes through a hole in the stopper plate. The outer pinch bolt goes through a half-hole, so it's possible to swing the stopper plate down and out of the way. You might have to use a small screwdriver to pry the stopper plate out of the crank slot.

Try to simulate a mild impact wrench on the plastic cap. As you torque the TL/FC16 tool to loosen the cap, tap the center of the cap rapidly with a very small hammer or something similar. Sometimes a simultaneous application of impacts and torque ("whack 'n turn") will break threads free.
 

·
Steaming piles of opinion
Joined
·
10,520 Posts
That's for the install, not the removal. It's there to preload the bearings, and serves no purpose in disassembly. Just loosen the bolts, and gently slide the crankarm off.

"Gently" may include use of a rubber mallet, esp. if you've been honking on the installation tool in an attempt to disassemble the thing.


http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=95

Edit: On seeing wim's note, I see that I misread the OP. Thought we were trying to move the crank, not the cap itself. Apologies.

On a reread, I see the cap is seized, and with most of the tools for it being little plastic nob things... That's a tough one.

My U-10 fixing bolt/cap seems to be alloy anodized black, and if the original installer didn't grease it, it would seize right up. Maybe that's your situation, rather than an overtorque. Some form of penetrating oil is the first course, but don't go nutty on it and soak the bearings. Then, maybe you can get a screwdriver blade on one of the 'teeth' of the inside of the cap, and tap it loose.

Or some careful work with a hacksaw or dremel will allow you to cut a slot into the crown of the cap. That'll provide a better purchase for a screwdriver/chisel to work to tap it loose. It's a semi-destructive solution and not guaranteed. so that's the thing to try last.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Finally got it !!

After fussing with that little sucker awhile, I went back to trying to remove it by hand with the little plastic tool (one last try). Anyway, using two hands & concentrating on griping & turning I was able to loosen & remove (the weight lifting pays off again!). It appears that the shop had used some lock tight liquid as there was a blue residue. This is probably why the thing won't budge to begin with. I had read that lock tight was not recommended as it tends to break down plastic. But seeing how easily the crank arms slight off, I can see why you'd want some assurance that the cap holds on tightly. I'll be using the locktite on the metal cap for my DA cranks. I did not find a stop plate on the crank arm. Other than that, there was only anti-seize compound on the bearing threads, so the remaining parts came off easily.

I appreciate the input in helping me wade thru this one. I should be back on the road shortly (after the rain stops here in CT). Thks
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top