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What would you do?

  • Sram eTap

    Votes: 14 48.3%
  • Shimano 6870 Di2

    Votes: 7 24.1%
  • Just buy a replacement derailleur and be done with it

    Votes: 8 27.6%
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Currently running 2012 Red grouppo and the rear derailleur's inner cage is delaminating. Not sure how long it's going to hold out and I'm not sure I want to invest ~$275 for a new one given the age of the groupset. I've had the LBS check on replacement cage parts and the inner plate is unavailable until OCTOBER! As a result, I've been mulling over the various electronic groupsets.

So, if you were to upgrade to 11sp electronic shifting today, would you go Shimano 6870 or jump into eTap? (DA is outta my price range and not slated for release until 2017.) Also, if I go the 11sp route, I'm going to have to rebuild the rear wheel with a new hub and pony up for a new cassette as well.
 

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Forever a Student
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I'd go etap and get a conversion cassette from wheels manufacturing or edco. That way you don't have to rebuild anything and you'll be all up to date.
 

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Adventure Seeker
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Before going 11sp, will your hub accommodate a cassette with 11 cogs? You might also need to get a new rear wheel, hub, or freewheel body as well.
If you want to go to electronic, then do so. It doesn't matter what anyone thinks, it's for YOU. I've debated it for myself, but I'd rather keep the money in my pocket or use it for bigger benefits elsewhere on the bike.
 

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Currently running 2012 Red grouppo and the rear derailleur's inner cage is delaminating. Not sure how long it's going to hold out and I'm not sure I want to invest ~$275 for a new one given the age of the groupset. I've had the LBS check on replacement cage parts and the inner plate is unavailable until OCTOBER! As a result, I've been mulling over the various electronic groupsets.

So, if you were to upgrade to 11sp electronic shifting today, would you go Shimano 6870 or jump into eTap? (DA is outta my price range and not slated for release until 2017.) Also, if I go the 11sp route, I'm going to have to rebuild the rear wheel with a new hub and pony up for a new cassette as well.
Why not save some money and just buy a force or rival RD?
 

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Adorable Furry Hombre
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Is your bike designed for Di2 cabling and battery? That is a yes/no proposition. If yes then get Di2. If no...then eTap.

That is how I think of it. Di2 on bikes designed for mechanical cabling is fugly IMHO. Either eTap it or keep it mechie.
 

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Already been down that route before and wasn't really happy with it at all. Too slow and heavy in its actuation for me.
SRAM shifting is that bad? I always thought sram's off road shifting was a bit more mechanical and clunky than shimano's, but I always thought of it as being competent if not terribly refined.

Reports are that sram etap shifting is considerably slower and less smooth compared to shimano di2.

Seems like you are stuck between a rock and a hard place with sram.

Even if di2 isn't an option for you, you could always go with shimano mechanical which probably shifts better than any sram groupset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is your bike designed for Di2 cabling and battery? That is a yes/no proposition. If yes then get Di2. If no...then eTap.

That is how I think of it. Di2 on bikes designed for mechanical cabling is fugly IMHO. Either eTap it or keep it mechie.
Frame is a 2014 Tarmac SL4 Pro, so def Di2 capable. Agree, I'd never do external Di2 wiring.


SRAM shifting is that bad? I always thought sram's off road shifting was a bit more mechanical and clunky than shimano's, but I always thought of it as being competent if not terribly refined.

Reports are that sram etap shifting is considerably slower and less smooth compared to shimano di2.

Seems like you are stuck between a rock and a hard place with sram.

Even if di2 isn't an option for you, you could always go with shimano mechanical which probably shifts better than any sram groupset.
Yes, IMO, I thought the Force rd was really pretty crappy, which is why I quickly pulled it. The bike came with Red rd, but an untimely broken chain resulted in a nasty crash killing the Red rd. Thought I'd save some $$ by going Force but every ride I was just irritated to no end by it's lack of performance, so I bit the bullet and opted for another Red rd.

I think it's fair to say Shimano shifting is just buttery smooth across both DA and Ultegra while SRAM has always had a very mechanical and very prominent shifting feedback. I can live with that as I've been riding SRAM on my MTB's for years. I just couldn't deal with the performance offered in the Force line up.

Maybe it is time to go back to Shimano. Parts are readily available and replacement rd's can be found for well under $200. Who knows what an eTap replacement will be.
 

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If I was going mechanical, I would do 105 (which I just did). Every review I read recently was commenting on how little difference there is between 105 and Ultegra 11spd. mechanical, besides the $400 or so price difference as well as the 150 grams.

But if your heart sings for electronic, then Ultegra Di2, which I admit to desiring as well.

But the big question is can you do an E-Tap upgrade, and that may well be a more cost effective option.
 

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I have been using sram red for years. Just went to etap on the road bike. The best performing group for racing (what I'm into) is sram Red mech. What I should have done is stayed mech for the road and gone etap for the TT bike. Makes more sense there imo. The sprint blips are fun and useful but only slightly better than the red shift paddle that you can grip when sprinting in the drops with Red mechanical.

If I were in your situation now having tried the other side...i'd go on ebay/online/brick mortar shop and buy a new red rd.
 

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Having two Ultegra 6870 bikes, I strongly recommend it if you are willing to pay the extra money for it.

Not sure why you didn't include the mechanical 6800 groupset. It's really cheap to get through the UK sites right now, and is an amazing groupset for the money.
 

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Wouldn't DA9000 mechanical be cheaper than eTap especially with 9100 (or whatever they're calling it) coming out??? Nothing shifts better than 9000 mech IMO.
 

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A well adjusted 6800 mechanical setup shifts nearly as smooth and easy a 9000 mechanical. The biggest difference is the weight. You pay an insane amount of money for a few grams of weight savings with the 9000.

There is one distinct advantage of the 6800 over 9000, send that's the rear derailleur capacity.

Of course you can always mix and match components, but you'll usually pay more than purchasing a complete groupset.
 

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If I was going mechanical, I would do 105 (which I just did). Every review I read recently was commenting on how little difference there is between 105 and Ultegra 11spd. mechanical, besides the $400 or so price difference as well as the 150 grams.
the price difference is $185 on Ribble today which is about the lowest amount most could spend to save 150 grams in bike weight if that's the desire and the resale value comparing the 2 would be at least that on a used bike. I definitely would go Ultegra over 105 if I was building a nice bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Stopped by the LBS last night to see if they had any eTAP equipped bikes built up. Much to my chagrin, they had everything to look at: Ultegra 6870 Di2 (hydro & mech), Old 9070 Di2 and an eTap setup. Definitely prefer the ergo's of the eTap hoods, didn't really like the Ultegra and DA was a close second to the SRAM's. I guess you'd say I'm a SRAM guy, so I'm taking the plunge and going eTap.

I went ahead and ordered up all the parts today: eTap road kit, cassette, chain, brakes, new hub and some bar tape. Now I get to play the waiting game for deliveries. BTW, anyone interested in getting just the road kit, sans crankset etc., check out clever training aka DC Rainmaker. You'll save 10%. (No affiliation, just a satisfied prior customer.) Pulled all the above plus wheel build for just a hair over $2k.

The guys at the shop were really, really cool and gave their best effort at getting me a deal, but I honestly didn't want the only group set they had pulled from the display bike and moved to my bike. I'll still have them do the wheel build as stated above as well as having them do the install since they've probably got the best mech's in town. (I could probably do it myself, but I'm a straight up hack mechanic and fully admit it, so....)

BTW, anyone know how to kill the poll?
 

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I can tell you that when I put a Di2 6870 groupset (bought the entire thing from PBK) on my bike it has been a revelation. I can't tell you if it was the just from 10 sp Ultegra to 11 Speed several years later, but it is fantastic. Fast, exact shifts. Never needing adjustment once I dialed it in (and about 30 seconds when I change wheels for any minor adjustment.) And in the 4 months and perhaps 3k I've put on the bike, I've charged the battery twice - because the indicator told me I have reached 50% charge both times. And, I just have to tell you, I love the auto trimming FD. For someone like me, who honestly shifts a lot more than most, since I ride small but rolling hills a lot and keep a high cadence, there is no question that I am a happy camper with Di2.

And I looked at eTap, but there seemed to be way more battery nonsense going on that with the one battery that lasts forever between charges that the Shimano system gives.
 

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Dura Ace 9100 mechanical is not really an upgrade to 9000. Minor evolution, but its an excellent group set. If you are considering mechanical I'd go with that but with an Ultegra rear cassette and chain.

ETAP for an electronic goup set doesn't hold much advantage to ultegra DI unless you're bike isn't electronic ready.
 
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